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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 07-08-2008, 03:12 PM   #28951
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So which model did u go with? 160, 163, or 1161?

To many choices! Heh I need to do one of these myself.

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Old 07-08-2008, 03:19 PM   #28952
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Roy, PM.
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Old 07-08-2008, 07:53 PM   #28953
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Originally Posted by hanulec View Post
I had the same problem but it was caused the lipo mode being enabled on my lrp sphere comp 07. by switching the speedo config to nimh only. do you have a lipo protection mode set on your speedo?
That was it, I'll try it out this weekend on the NiMH 4/6-cell mode.
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Old 07-12-2008, 02:10 PM   #28954
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opinions on the hot bodies cyclone 12?
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Old 07-12-2008, 05:06 PM   #28955
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I just got one in trade for building another car...I'm sure it can be made to work quite well but I'm not liking the car much. The battery hold downs are cool and the front end is nice having the caster blocks be just 1 piece instead of keeping track of 3. Where I have issues with the car is in the rear suspension. The t-plate has 1 pivot ball and bolts straight to a spacer at the front. Because the front has no pivots the tweak screws are essentially useless if you need to adjust tweak. The damper plates reduce the useable space in the pod. I'm not sure if the car I got has the stock spur gear or if the customer changed it...either way it is way too big. It has a thread on style left side hub which is nice for balance and stays on well...but it makes it harder to space out the axle to different lengths, and it's a metal rear axle.

That being said the car can be fast if built right I think...I just think there are better options out there.
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Old 07-12-2008, 07:26 PM   #28956
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How do you change ride height on front of 12L4?
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Old 07-12-2008, 08:57 PM   #28957
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Originally Posted by intimidator View Post
How do you change ride height on front of 12L4?
In order of expense:

The kit probably came with four 1/16" spacers (washers). They work, but that's BIG steps, and only two steps at that. Free, or under a buck at the hardware store.

The CRC front ride height shims work well for the Associated arms and the IRS-modified Associated arms (worth the money just for the additional tire life). $8-9. They no longer "notch" these which makes 'em less convenient to use. Notch them yourself by cutting across to the mount screw holes from the "straight" side. You'll see what I mean if you get them. This makes it so you can insert and remove them without completely removing the lower arm mounting screws.

Fibre-lyte (UK) make an excellent carbon fibre shim set that have the coolest looking carbon...it glows. I like that they're measured in mm, IRS rear axle height adjusters, tire diameters and ride height are all measured in mm as it keeps everything on the same page. The .010" CRC shim (roughly .25mm) works excellently with the Fibre-Lyte shims giving a bit more fine-tuning ability. Probably + or - $25 for a set with shipping from the UK, cheaper if several of you order at once (they used to give a discount on orders of, like, 12 sets or so).

If you install the new IRS "lower" arms (NOT the modified Associated arms) I highly recommend the BMI aluminum spacers. The BMI spacers provide a very stable "platform" for the lower arms to ride on as they're held quite a ways above the chassis plate with full-diameter tires. They come in .5mm increments and are chamfered on the "bottom" side to clear the countersink on the lower arm mounting screws that STILL sticks through the top of 2.5mm chassis plates. I use these with the .010" CRC shims also. $60 for all six sets of these. WELL worth the money, imho, I have a couple sets I use among my cars (up to three at any given meeting).

These new IRS arms are neat because you can run the tires from full-cut until the white of the rims shows through if you want. One CRITICAL thing I've found with these arms is that you REALLY need to use a tap (8-32 RH) to thread them. I recommend doing this with any arms, but these it is very important yet they do not mention this in the instructions.

Also, DRILL into your head that ADDING shims REDUCES ride height, REMOVING shims INCREASES ride height. I guarantee you I foul that up at LEAST three times every season. I'm an embarrasment...
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Old 07-13-2008, 08:57 AM   #28958
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scottrik View Post
.

Fibre-lyte (UK) make an excellent carbon fibre shim set that have the coolest looking carbon...it glows.
I use them to get these front ride height Shimz cut



Suitable for all 12th & 10th scale pan car chassis’s that run the Team Associated Dynamic Link front end suspension.

Kit comprises 3 pairs of shims each drilled with small hole for easy ID.
The single hole being the thinnest shim etc.

0.5mm
1.0mm
1.5mm

don't know what that is in imperial though
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Old 07-13-2008, 10:39 AM   #28959
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Most people in the U.S. measure ride height in metric. It's about time we started the switch...
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Old 07-13-2008, 12:33 PM   #28960
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Quote:
Originally Posted by timmay70 View Post
Most people in the U.S. measure ride height in metric. It's about time we started the switch...
Going metric would raise our nations IQ by 20 points. Becuase it is that much more simple to use in calculations including simple addition.
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Old 07-13-2008, 04:39 PM   #28961
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Going metric would raise our nations IQ by 20 points. Becuase it is that much more simple to use in calculations including simple addition.
Yeah, but people get themselves all in a tizzy that they can't convert. If we change over you don't NEED to convert. It's now 300km between Seattle and Portland...doesn't freakin' matter how many miles. Folks just can't let that go though.
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Old 07-13-2008, 07:29 PM   #28962
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Default Hot Bodies Cyclone 12 Shock is amazing..

I ran for the first time today the Hot Bodies Cyclone 12 shock, PN 61695, and all I can say this is the nicest 1/12th scale shock I've ever used. The shock bladder is a nice feature, but its durability (thinkness of the shock shaft) is what make it a winner. This shock will replace my fleet of IRS shocks (their shafts are very thin - I honestly have four extra shocks pre-made for each race weekend) and try to sell my newly purchased, but unused, CRC shocks.

When running the Hot Bodies shock on an American made car you should use an Associated/Losi/etc ball end at the end of the shock shaft. The provided ball end used on the shock shaft were just too loose. The open ended bottom mount fits well, but I am thinking about replacing the traditional ball stud with a Xray shock pivot and a screw.
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Old 07-13-2008, 07:39 PM   #28963
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CFR View Post
I use them to get these front ride height Shimz cut



Suitable for all 12th & 10th scale pan car chassis’s that run the Team Associated Dynamic Link front end suspension.

Kit comprises 3 pairs of shims each drilled with small hole for easy ID.
The single hole being the thinnest shim etc.

0.5mm
1.0mm
1.5mm

don't know what that is in imperial though

To convert to imperial you divide your metric measurement by 25.4 or you can take your metric measurement and multiply it by .03937. Both work the same.
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Old 07-13-2008, 09:11 PM   #28964
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To convert to imperial you divide your metric measurement by 25.4 or you can take your metric measurement and multiply it by .03937. Both work the same.
And, roughly speaking (not even THAT roughly), you'll end up with .020", .040" and .060" respectively. Then, as I said, I throw in the .010" (roughly .25mm) CRC white shim for good "measure".
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Old 07-13-2008, 10:31 PM   #28965
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scottrik View Post
Yeah, but people get themselves all in a tizzy that they can't convert. If we change over you don't NEED to convert. It's now 300km between Seattle and Portland...doesn't freakin' matter how many miles. Folks just can't let that go though.
One simple way to convert to metric.
Mandate all new autos produces in the US use METRIC parts!
Then use Metric Road Signs instead of MPH.
If you are not bright enough to locate KPH on the Speedo, then maybe you are better off sitting riding the short bus to where ever you are heading.

It is just one of those things that is expanding the gap for America while the rest of the world progresses.
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