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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!


BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)


Enneti (Xceed)

As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.


If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick

  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020

  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


Reflex Racing/RSD:


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Old 05-07-2003, 10:43 AM   #2881
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I guess I could add to this that when my chassis rubbed it had marks all the way across the chassis, like it was bottoming out from being too low. I think if the chassis only got marks on the edges then that might indicate chassis roll as the problem.
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Old 05-07-2003, 02:11 PM   #2882
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the carpet at the nats was really bad in that it had a ton of ripples (i think cyrul's car actually got some air once) however i ran mine right at the limit and some guys i heard ran their's lower. however you want to smooth your chassis so it doesnt "catch" the carpet. rubbing is bad, however so is high CG, its a trade off between handling and scrubbing speed, if you are scrubbing too much speed so it defeats the purpose than dont do it.
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Old 05-07-2003, 06:33 PM   #2883
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Its only at the corners, so its probably chassis roll. How do you reduce roll? Im running a pretty stiff setup, .063 tplate, copper certre spring, 60 wt oil, .22 front springs. Any other ideas?
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Old 05-07-2003, 06:53 PM   #2884
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I run 80 or 100 oil, however thats for a merchant which required on the shock alone for center dampening, and thats more front to back than side to side. try going up to a stiffer t-bar since i think there is a .73 or something like that, which should be that you are running for carpet i would imagine. no clue on the center spring either, however like i said before, shouldnt effect it.

and dremel, file or sand (i did all three!) the edges of the chassis to smooth them over so its like a xxx buggy chassis's edges (well not that much, but you get the idea). so it if hits the edge of the chassis wont grab the carpet.
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Old 05-08-2003, 04:57 AM   #2885
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I tried the think Tplate, but I kept breaking it. The thin one never seems to break.
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Old 05-08-2003, 01:02 PM   #2886
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this brings me back to my point about the rev. 3.... it doesnt have a t-plate, chassis roll or any of theproblems you are running into, and it doesnt break.

so besides getting a new car (which is actually pretty cheap, the same cost of a esc) here is what i would suggest. try running stiffer side to side dampning, and maybe think about running side shocks (the same as the center shock,but one on each side) and just use the t-bar as a pivoting thignie.
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Old 05-08-2003, 02:50 PM   #2887
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Do you mean like a side spring setup, or side shocks?
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Old 05-08-2003, 04:22 PM   #2888
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did anyone see the pti virus at rcx? I talked with the engineers at their booth, and it looked very cool. here is a pic from rcca forum.

looks pretty bad ass
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Old 05-08-2003, 05:20 PM   #2889
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paperboy- side shocks and springs, basically get two more shocks like the center shock and they should be able to be mounted side to side on the chassis.

dasani- while it is nice to have a new 12th scale out there, i explain in the last page why i would suggest it stay a museum piece. although i would really like to know what they were thinking when they designed it.
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Old 05-08-2003, 05:57 PM   #2890
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I am have a little problem with my 12th scale. It is my first and is giving me a headache. Everytime I go to run it the car gets a glitch. I have switched the speedo, batts, motor, Rx, crystals and servo but still the same thing. It seems to be from motor noise because when I run it on my bench everytime I give it full throttle the front wheels start to wiggle. If I run it on the street it will get about eight feet away and make a large circle. It will not go straight no matter what I do and the faster I try to drive it the worse it pulls. If someone has had a problem like this please give a guy a hand. The car is a CRC BK with a C2, Air94145, M8 and Monster stock. I have run TC's for about five years so I know where to look for a glitch but maybe there is something different about pan cars. Thanks.
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Old 05-08-2003, 07:59 PM   #2891
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short of using vice grips to hold the graphite shaft, what is the easiest way to remove the wheel hubs of an rc12l3? mine seem to be welded on because it wont budge. i need to change the ride height adjusters on the motor mount but i need to remove the hubs first. thanks for any info
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Old 05-09-2003, 03:23 AM   #2892
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I have had the brush wires touching the graphite chasis on my CK causing a glitch. I also have had the batteries touch the rear pod mount by the little football mount. Put some tape on the rear of the battery and try that, push your bursh shunts into the holder so you are sure they are not touching.

You are right its a power thing because it gets worse when you use more power. If it drives in circles, make sure your speed controller is good for 4.8 volts.

Please post what you find.

David Root
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Old 05-09-2003, 05:07 AM   #2893
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I think Ill just keep running the car for a while, and see how it goes. If Im still really slow, Ill get a CRC or Speedmerchant. Otherwise, Ill just stick with the L3
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Old 05-09-2003, 05:57 AM   #2894
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I have had some issues with the Monster motors....
The plate that holds the caps was not crimped tight.

I now solder all the points to the board where the crimps are along with the wire going to the screw.
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Old 05-09-2003, 10:08 AM   #2895
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Default L3 conversion

If you want to try changing the configuration of your L3, CRC makes a nice conversion kit which changes the car to a side spring set up. The kit comes with a tweak plate, springs, damper tubes and every thing to make the switch. When I bought one it was only about $40. I've never actually installed it but it essentially turns the L3 into a Six Pack (CRC's 6 cell car).

My 2 cents, however, would be to try the .075 t bar again. That will stiffen the car's side to side and possibly stop the rubbing. I've always used that t bar on my own L3 and haven't had the problem you are describing.

just a thought...make sure your tweak screws are adjusted right-just touching the chassis with no side to side wobble.
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