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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 06-25-2008, 08:21 AM   #28891
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maxepower View Post
You think someone would make a lipo for 4.8V hardcase with 4800 MaH ratting.
Again...there is no such thing as a 4.8v LiPo. Doesn't exist, can't exist. The nature of the materials is that each cell produces 3.7v, so you have choices of multiples of 3.7v. As stated above, 3.7v too low, 7.4v too high, 11.1v ridiculously high. It is a limitation of the technology.

1/12 could certainly adopt LiPo tech but would require significant re-engineering of the class to adopt either 3.7v or 7.4v. Of course 1/12 racers as a whole are extremely resistant to change so we'll have a lot of hand-wringing over this issue for a couple years until our hand is forced when NiMH are no longer available. We will see limited growth in the class in the meantime as people who might have added 1/12 to their program are kept out by the need to run NiMH.
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Old 06-25-2008, 12:12 PM   #28892
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that poor dead horse...
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Old 06-25-2008, 12:23 PM   #28893
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Quote:
Originally Posted by odpurple View Post
that poor dead horse...
I agree, but as long as people can't seem to understand the logic as to why it will not happen, or refuse to use the SEARCH feature of this site to see that it has been covered about bagillion times.... that corpse will continue to be flogged.
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Old 06-25-2008, 01:05 PM   #28894
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We are just barely starting to run 12th scale outdoors here in Houston and 4 cell, 17.5t brushless seems to be the choice. I've often wondered about 7.4v lipo and 21.5t though since the 17.5 is basically slower than a stock motor, a 21.5 has to be really slow.
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Old 06-25-2008, 01:19 PM   #28895
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Hey guys! I am just looking at doing a little upgrade in the 1/12th scale class this season and I am very torn between the bmi and 12r5. Can anyone give me any feedback on which way I should go? And please dont hold back.
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Old 06-25-2008, 01:23 PM   #28896
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I would say between those 2 the ae 12r5 since it's closer to a speedmerchant.
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Old 06-25-2008, 02:32 PM   #28897
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Both are great cars and you can't go wrong with either one really. We have both racing here locally on our little asphault track. Personally I'd go with the BMI for a couple of reasons (That I race one isn't one of the reasons). The BMI has more parts commonality with other brands out there so it is a bit easier to find parts. The second is it is slightly easier to set up since you don't have side springs to mess with. The spring and the link are combined into 1 piece by using a flexing fiberglass link.
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Old 06-25-2008, 02:47 PM   #28898
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I have not run or built the new Assoc but I do have the BMI car and will say the the quality of the kit was excelent. I have read about some build problems with the Assoc kit but those may have been fixed by now.
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Old 06-25-2008, 05:16 PM   #28899
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JoelV View Post
I would say between those 2 the ae 12r5 since it's closer to a speedmerchant.
WHAT..... Have you compared the 12R5 and Rev5 ?? The front end setup is so different, and the rear pod and suspension setup is all different too.

Here is a link to the SpeedMerchant Rev5
http://www.redrc.net/2007/09/speed-m...5-112th-scale/

Here is a link to the 12R5
http://www.redrc.net/2008/02/team-as...5-112th-scale/
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Old 06-25-2008, 05:32 PM   #28900
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Get the Speedmerchant Rev5! The front end is great. If you don't get a Rev5 seriously consider getting one of the other link-based cars (CRC Gen-X ... not sure about 12R5 yet).

The BMI DB12R is probably great on asphalt (I've been running my Rev5) but the car just doesn't have the proper corner speed on tight carpet tracks. The BMI also is a pain in the arse to install/remove brushless motors.
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Old 06-25-2008, 06:09 PM   #28901
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My LRP BL motor pretty much dropped right in on my BMI...didn't need to take anything apart.
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Old 06-25-2008, 06:42 PM   #28902
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My speed passion, hacker and novak's dont fit. I needed to remove the left pod plate every time.
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Old 06-25-2008, 08:12 PM   #28903
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Quote:
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WHAT..... Have you compared the 12R5 and Rev5 ?? The front end setup is so different, and the rear pod and suspension setup is all different too.
Maybe I should have just said, Get a speedmerchant. Sorry.
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Old 06-25-2008, 09:41 PM   #28904
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Hello, I just got an RC12L3 and would like to know what servo is the best for it? Also, is there any online shop that sells parts for the 12L3? Any suggestion on what foam tires to use on an asphalt (Medium) bite track? How about body for it? TIA
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Old 06-25-2008, 09:44 PM   #28905
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My speed passion, hacker and novak's dont fit. I needed to remove the left pod plate every time.
Guess I'm special then. I'm able to get my Novaks into my BMI DB12R without removing anything. Couple that with the fact it is the closest thing to a "fall together" kit I've built...and I've built a LOT of different kits.

Simple fact, everybody has their favorites for one reason or another. Similarly, it plain isn't possible to buy a "bad" car. Especially if you're new to 1/12. It'll probably be a year or two before you're REALLY driving 1/12 at the level where the real differences between chassis and which one to pick that suits your driving style will really even start to show up.

Best bet, buy something with excellent parts support (CRC, BMI, Associated). All three of these have support from online retailers as well as VERY responsive company sites that sell direct (something not all 1/12 players can say). Again--in the right hands any of these three plus a few others (SM, Corally, etc) are capable of winning world championships. You plain cannot buy a bad car.
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