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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 06-07-2008, 05:07 AM   #28831
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i have seen those, but have never seen then run. on carpet most have even drop to .068 t bars with 2 screw. so not sure why you would need to restrick the pod rotation.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Swanny View Post
I've just noticed that in the graphite suspension accessories pack (part no. 4542) that there are two spacers to limit how much side to side movement is available in the rear suspension. Under what circumstances would you use these?

I will be racing outdoors on asphalt and soon indoors on carpet. I've never raced on carpet so I'd appreciate a bit of advice on setup. I race an Associated RC12L4.
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Old 06-07-2008, 09:12 PM   #28832
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I'm getting back into racing after a 4 year break and I decided on a 12th scale as I don't want the hassle of TC plus it's a lot cheaper and it's more fun to drive. Anyways I'm on the fence on what to get a CRC Gen-X or 12R5. Any opinions?
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Old 06-07-2008, 09:14 PM   #28833
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Get the new Gen X 10.
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Old 06-07-2008, 09:19 PM   #28834
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But I 'm looking for a 12th
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Old 06-07-2008, 09:31 PM   #28835
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I tried
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Old 06-07-2008, 11:13 PM   #28836
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ophidian View Post
I'm getting back into racing after a 4 year break and I decided on a 12th scale as I don't want the hassle of TC plus it's a lot cheaper and it's more fun to drive. Anyways I'm on the fence on what to get a CRC Gen-X or 12R5. Any opinions?
I've always had great luck with the Rev.5.
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Old 06-08-2008, 12:04 AM   #28837
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ophidian View Post
I'm getting back into racing after a 4 year break and I decided on a 12th scale as I don't want the hassle of TC plus it's a lot cheaper and it's more fun to drive. Anyways I'm on the fence on what to get a CRC Gen-X or 12R5. Any opinions?
Go with the BMI car, great on carpet and asphalt. Plus Jason provides excelent customer service and the car comes complete with just about every possible hopup in the kit.

Quote:
Originally Posted by timmay70 View Post
I've always had great luck with the Rev.5.
Speedmerchant makes a nice car but their customer service is a bit lacking imo.
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Old 06-08-2008, 12:05 AM   #28838
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I agree - the Speed Merchant REV 5 is a great car. http://www.teamspeedmerchant.com/sho...l/smr1412.html
The car is so good I'm thinking about selling all of my BMI DB12R stuff for good (probably real cheap in case anyone is interested).
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Old 06-08-2008, 12:28 AM   #28839
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and if you have any doubt, just look at who won 1/12th mod back to back at vegas...
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Old 06-08-2008, 04:29 AM   #28840
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ophidian View Post
I'm getting back into racing after a 4 year break and I decided on a 12th scale as I don't want the hassle of TC plus it's a lot cheaper and it's more fun to drive. Anyways I'm on the fence on what to get a CRC Gen-X or 12R5. Any opinions?
Any of the top brand cars are great cars and can be made to work quite well. If you don't want setup hassle I'd stay with something with a solid rear link or t-bar setup. The CRC, 12R5, and BMIDB12R all have non-adjustable rear links which make setup just a bit easier in the long run. I'm sure the Rev5 is a great car too but you've got 6 suspension links to adjust on that car. Of the mentioned cars I'd have to put in my suggestion for the BMIDB12R as well. On our local outdoor asphault track it is dialed. It's hands down better then any of my previous cars.
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Old 06-08-2008, 06:06 AM   #28841
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Iíve just put Novak 6.5L (Blue one) in my L4. What roll out should I be using on 100ft. straight out door track with low-mid grip?
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Old 06-08-2008, 07:29 AM   #28842
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Quote:
Originally Posted by InspGadgt View Post
Any of the top brand cars are great cars and can be made to work quite well. If you don't want setup hassle I'd stay with something with a solid rear link or t-bar setup. The CRC, 12R5, and BMIDB12R all have non-adjustable rear links which make setup just a bit easier in the long run. I'm sure the Rev5 is a great car too but you've got 6 suspension links to adjust on that car. Of the mentioned cars I'd have to put in my suggestion for the BMIDB12R as well. On our local outdoor asphault track it is dialed. It's hands down better then any of my previous cars.

The reason for the 12R5 and the Gen-X is the parts availability. I'm leaning to the Gen-X
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Old 06-08-2008, 08:07 AM   #28843
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Good to hear you're coming back, Ophie. I ran an old CRC (Dave's old car) at DTP. It was a joy to drive after Kelly solved a minor problem which was my fault. And it's possible that KARZ may be running 1/12 in the winter...only minis at the moment.
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Old 06-08-2008, 11:27 AM   #28844
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ophidian View Post
The reason for the 12R5 and the Gen-X is the parts availability. I'm leaning to the Gen-X
Everybody is going to tell you to buy the car they have, hence the lack of an answer to your original question. Gadget is right of course, all the top cars are capable of doing the job.

some thoughts:

GenX has been around for a bit and has evolved into an even better car than when it was introduced. It has a proven track record. Parts availability is very good even if your local track doesn't carry them, but if there are GenXs running there, they probably do.

12R5 is new, and since it hasn't been run for very long has not much of a track record. AE has done lots of testing, and considering the lineage I wouldn't be worried about its performance. There are some nice ideas in the front end and shocks that are rather new. Parts for AE cars have always been among the most available of any brand so once the car is out there in some numbers, shops will be carrying the parts.

Both are link cars so they will be similar to set up and run
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Old 06-08-2008, 01:39 PM   #28845
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Parts availability is always something to consider. If you LHS carries the parts that's great. The GenX has been around a bit but unless your LHS carries parts in stock for it you'll need to order them. The 12R5 is still new on the market and I imagine parts availablity will be good for them in the future but it's probably a bit light right now. One thing to consider though is both of them use very little standard parts. That being parts that are based on the older 12L designs. So there isn't much cross platform support except for maybe the rear axle. Many of the other companies like BMI, Darkside, Diggity and others, still use the AE Dynamic Strut front end, AE style rear axle, and in many cases even the rear pod plates. This makes parts availability a bit easier. I guess it really boils down to what parts you local shop carries.
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