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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 05-05-2003, 04:22 PM   #2866
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Dpowell,

http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/foru...hreadid=124824

Enjoy.
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Old 05-05-2003, 06:19 PM   #2867
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I have talked to the designers of the cars and thats where i got that info about the pods.

paperboy- thats actually not the case. just like in sedan or any other carpet class pro drivers run small tires for multiple reasons. however if you are having problems with compound its not the car or the tire, its you and how you are applying it.

Also not to bash the "virus" however let me explain why some of its design is a bad idea.

you can never have enough rear traction in 12th scale, espically in mod and whenever you are on asphault. thus people always have their batteries as far back as possible (sometimes in certain cases racing stock on carpet will you run them more forward, but only by a 1/4" if that). however the PTI car has the batteries down the center, so you have a ton of weight in the front now and very little in the rear. also the servo is further forward, so you have even more front weight. the arguement that the weight is further to the center, thus its better is, isnt really as relevent in 12th scale, since they are so light and barely shift under cornering. also having no rear grip defeats the purpose even more. also note that all t-bar cars have the batteries on the edges of the chassis since the t-bar is in the middle.

(the only pan car with batteries down the center is the CRC pantura, and it is 1/10 scale, so bigger tires and the traction issue is a non issue)

also the upperdeck isnt needed at all, if your 12th scale chassis is flexing you have some serious issues with the chassis plate. its just alot of extra useless weight up high. also it makes the car much easier to throw out of tweak. espically with the front arm mounts on the upper deck.

VCS micro shocks are not known for their amazing quality and consistancy. having two shocks isnt as much of a bad idea as having them set up in that confirguration. since transitioning from side to side there are going to be soft and hard spots where the shocks are going to be different things (the shocks have different rebound and compression rates).

they have some good concepts, however they have some minor design flaws.
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Old 05-06-2003, 12:28 AM   #2868
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Default Rollout for Speedworld?

Hey Guys, I will be heading up to Speedworld in a couple of weeks and would appreciate it if someone could give me a rollout starting point for that track. I will probably be using a 9x2. Thanks, Blake.
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Old 05-06-2003, 04:26 AM   #2869
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Default Traction

I think it was Mark at CRC in Rome that drove my Carpet kinfe and said "nice handeling car, one thing...Let the traction compound sit on the tires for a full 30 minutes before your first race" Aparently 20 isn't enough for an 8 minute race.

David Root

Getting ready to run it on asphault.
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Old 05-06-2003, 04:49 AM   #2870
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Ok, Ill beleive you about the compound. But why do pros run their tires up at 1.80" and 1.90'? Thats a lot of tire.
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Old 05-06-2003, 08:27 AM   #2871
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RC Paperboy-The Speedmerchant just handles better on bigger tires. Especially when traction is medium to medium high. As Traction goes way -up then smaller tires come more into play. I have also noticed that L cars tend to run well on smaller tires as well. I usually sell my used tires to guys with 12L3's and re-active caster front ends!!!

I usually try to start my Rev. 3 at 1.92" in back and 1.78" in front and the car just naturally lowers itself over a couple weekends. I just keep tires trued and edges rounded between race days. Easy!!!

If a big race is coming up-I'll usually run a bunch of sets till they are all abour 1.88" rear and 1.74" front and then skimcut them and bag -em for the big race. When I do that-my car usually sits about 4.5mm in front and 4.0 in back to start. By the end of the weekend my cars about perfect at 3.5mm rear and 4mm front.

Now _I am no great driver-but I do what I think will always give me the best car performance anyways!!!
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Old 05-06-2003, 10:06 AM   #2872
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Hi guys,

I drive a 12l3 with the 3 bolt rear hubs. I recently ran across several sets of two bolt wheels/tires. Im sure I can find a set of two bolt hubs, but does anyone make a hubset that will run both 2 and 3 bolt wheels? CRC makes one for the left hub, but not the right (per their tech department). Any ideas?
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Old 05-06-2003, 10:36 AM   #2873
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Graphitedust,
You'll need 2 right side hubs. The 2 and 3 hole wheels are different. The outside bearing is in the wheel on a 2 hole and in the hub on a 3 hole setup. That is what allows you to take the wheel off and not have to disassemble the diff.
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Old 05-06-2003, 03:45 PM   #2874
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I normally start my tires at 1.85 in the back and like 1.78 in the front for club racing. any larger and you will chunk much easier and the traction will be all screwed up, you normally cant run them that high at big races since you will have wayyyy to much traction. Also i make sure to have under 4mm of ride height, however normally i run under 3mm's of ride height since the car does handle better the lower you go (thus you have to adjust ride hieght to get em at the correct hieght)
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Old 05-06-2003, 09:54 PM   #2875
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DPowell: Ahhh, so THATS what that big hole in the inside of the wheel is for..... Sounds like I just need to get the two bolt hubset. Do you know if the axel is the same or do I need a different axel too ? I've never seen a L2 around here to compare. Thanks for the help!!
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Old 05-06-2003, 10:02 PM   #2876
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thanks for the tips re. traction
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Old 05-06-2003, 10:46 PM   #2877
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Graphitedust,
I don't remember if the axle widths are the same but the old LW axles used a large diff ring and the L3 axles use a small diff ring.
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Old 05-07-2003, 04:49 AM   #2878
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Quote:
Originally posted by stormperson
I normally start my tires at 1.85 in the back and like 1.78 in the front for club racing. any larger and you will chunk much easier and the traction will be all screwed up, you normally cant run them that high at big races since you will have wayyyy to much traction. Also i make sure to have under 4mm of ride height, however normally i run under 3mm's of ride height since the car does handle better the lower you go (thus you have to adjust ride hieght to get em at the correct hieght)
Whenever I run under 3, the chassis rubs. I get black marks on thebottom of the chassis, and lose high speed steering. Any ideas?
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Old 05-07-2003, 05:28 AM   #2879
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the l3 chassis might be wider, however i would assume it probably comes down to suspenion settings, and that yours is softer than mine. also the l3 has the weigh to the outside of the car (since the batteries cant be placed in the middle), however the rev. 3 has it in the middle and might have less chassis roll because of it.

also how much does it rub?
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Old 05-07-2003, 11:38 AM   #2880
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Default Chassis rubbing

I had the same problem with marking the chassis when running under 3mm ride height and discovered that it was the track. The concrete surface that the carpet was laid on had some ripples in it which were undetectable. My car handled a lot better when I raised it up so it didn't rub (this was my CK). When the track moved to a different and smoother surface, I found I could run the car lower without it rubbing. So, it might be the track and not the car or set-up.
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