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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 05-29-2008, 04:04 AM   #28771
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Thanks buddy. It looks really cool.
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Old 05-29-2008, 06:52 AM   #28772
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Hey Paul,

thats a nice car, i've heard about your car and i've seen it running, i've just never seen it in its birthday suit before. What oil and springs are you using for your side dampers?

cheers Steve
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Old 05-29-2008, 08:57 AM   #28773
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Depends on the dampers. The side shocks i've used most have been off an AE 1/18th scale buggy as I've found the damping too heavy on the VCS shocks - too much friction in the seals. Tried the VCS shocks again at my local club the other night and the car was awful. Just finished refitting the Associated ones.

For the side springs I've settled on the AE silver. Ran AE green on the first prototype but there was less leverage with that set up as the shocks were mounted higher. I'd tested the shock set up on a modified L4 (no tweak screws) for 4 months before building the first prototype and tranferred that geometry across. I then lowered everything for the car in the pictures.

Damping wise I switch between 30wt and 40wt oil in the AE shocks. The 40wt still gives lighter damping than the VCS shocks fitted with 20wt oil!

We did some tyre testing a few months back and discovered the car likes a harder rear tyre. Been running Jaco Prisms and it cooks the yellow tyres within 4 minutes and the grip goes off. I just drove round the problem but I'd given the car to Andrew Smith to try and that's when we discovered what was going on. Now run Magentas when the grip is low and switch to Double Pinks as the grip goes up. Always run Double Pinks on the front.
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Old 05-29-2008, 09:48 AM   #28774
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What's the majority vote nowadays on bodies to use for med-high grip?
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Old 05-29-2008, 10:50 AM   #28775
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Speed 8 for stock, Speed 12 for anything faster.
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Old 05-29-2008, 04:25 PM   #28776
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I went to the England v USA game at Wembley Stadium last night when I should have been installing the electrics in my new car!

I'm gonna get in all sorted tomorrow and then run it for the first time at the Plymouth club.

I'll let you all know how it goes! Cheers, Chris.

(Oh, and England won 2-0, just to let you know (!))
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Old 05-29-2008, 04:55 PM   #28777
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul Lomas View Post
Depends on the dampers. The side shocks i've used most have been off an AE 1/18th scale buggy as I've found the damping too heavy on the VCS shocks - too much friction in the seals. Tried the VCS shocks again at my local club the other night and the car was awful. Just finished refitting the Associated ones.

For the side springs I've settled on the AE silver. Ran AE green on the first prototype but there was less leverage with that set up as the shocks were mounted higher. I'd tested the shock set up on a modified L4 (no tweak screws) for 4 months before building the first prototype and tranferred that geometry across. I then lowered everything for the car in the pictures.

Damping wise I switch between 30wt and 40wt oil in the AE shocks. The 40wt still gives lighter damping than the VCS shocks fitted with 20wt oil!

We did some tyre testing a few months back and discovered the car likes a harder rear tyre. Been running Jaco Prisms and it cooks the yellow tyres within 4 minutes and the grip goes off. I just drove round the problem but I'd given the car to Andrew Smith to try and that's when we discovered what was going on. Now run Magentas when the grip is low and switch to Double Pinks as the grip goes up. Always run Double Pinks on the front.
Thanks Paul,

i was going to run the VCS shocks on friday night to give it a go but now i've rmoved then and put the tube dampers back on until i get a chance to get some AE 1/18th shocks.

steve
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Old 05-29-2008, 05:14 PM   #28778
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It works pretty well too with 2nd place overall in the National Championships Sportsman Class (nothing faster than a 12x1) last season. First year back racing after a 15 year break too.

I started on the design back in the early 90's but never progressed with it due to giving up racing and the materials not being available. Carbon fibre was a lot more flexible then. It also looked clumsy with 6-cells in it. I did build a prototype back then but never drove it. Got some pictures somewhere.

Despite it looking like a lot of car it still only weighs in at 830 grams with a PT fitted. If anyone's after a compact pivot ball design I can recommend the centre pivot off the BMI. Couldn't have built the car without them!
That's about when I first started working on my design but in 1/10th. When the EV10 came out I gave up on the idea and ran that for awhile and after seeing John's thread where he made a floating pod on his pan car it got me working on it again. I'd love to do what you have done and build my idea but I just don't have the equipment to do it. Trying to get myself better with my CAD software so that I can get someone else to cut the parts for me
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Old 05-29-2008, 05:50 PM   #28779
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JamesArluck View Post
Speed 8 for stock, Speed 12 for anything faster.
Thanks James Good running @ RROC too brah
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Old 05-29-2008, 05:53 PM   #28780
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Steve

If you're gonna use the AE 1/18th shocks you'll find this link helpful. The mod takes about 10 minutes a shock.

http://www.rc-oval.com/?p=48

InspGadgt

Funny you should mention 1/10th cars as i first came across this rear suspension on a TRC LynxII Pro10 car. I then built my own (back in the days when i had access to free carbon fibre) and ran it a few times on an empty track before starting on the 1/12th car and giving up racing.

I've managed to build my current car using as many off the shelf parts as possible apart from the carbon fibre. I drew this in Autocad and emailed it to Fibrelyte here in the UK who had the bits done within a few days. My mate turned all the aluminium spacers. The rest is standard. Carpet Ripper pod side plates, Gen-X front (albeit 2mm narrower) AE and Hot Bodies shocks, BMI pivot balls. I've tried to share it around a bit!

Chris

Good luck with the testing.

Last edited by Paul Lomas; 05-29-2008 at 08:04 PM. Reason: Forgot to insert link
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Old 05-29-2008, 05:54 PM   #28781
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Whilst on the subject of scratchbuilt cars...

Very nice, I'm wondering about the handeling with the inline design. From what I've read and been told this configuration results in a lot of steering, did you find that to be true with your car also?

Chris
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Old 05-29-2008, 06:27 PM   #28782
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The benefit of the floating rear suspension is in that it generates a lot of rear traction in general.

Paul,

I remember the Lynx...had friends running it. That was a very interesting design but was unfortunately very heavy. I found the PB Sizzler a much cleaner design but it was a pain in the butt to keep all 5 of the links in proper adjustment.

I guess I gotta get my ol Solid Works goin again and start working on mine now with all these new scratch builds inspiring me
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Old 05-29-2008, 08:02 PM   #28783
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chris moore View Post
Very nice, I'm wondering about the handeling with the inline design. From what I've read and been told this configuration results in a lot of steering, did you find that to be true with your car also?

Chris
First time out with the car I ran an AE front end and had the rear top links angled down towards the pod. This made it super aggressive on cornering, partly cos of the rear axle steering the opposite way to the front, but the rest was down to the front end.

I switched it to the Gen-X front after that, which was a lot smoother, and also changed the rear links to angle upwards. This has the rear axle steering into the corner and stabilising the car.

Overall the car turns in much like my L4 did running side shocks. The difference is on exiting the corner as it holds a much tighter line, which is most likely down to the inline cell configuration. Where the L4 would kiss (or sometimes headbutt!) the barriers exiting a corner, this car can run in the middle of the track. It also has great traction which can usually gain me at least one place on the starting grid. Shame I tend to lose it all from being rear ended in the first corner!
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Old 05-29-2008, 08:46 PM   #28784
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Shame I tend to lose it all from being rear ended in the first corner!
I thought that only happened to me. Thanks for the insight on your car's handeling. I too am running the gen-X on my DB12R and like it very much, it does seem to me that frontend is a bit smoother than the AE.

Chris
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Old 05-29-2008, 10:40 PM   #28785
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Originally Posted by JamesArluck View Post
Speed 8 for stock, Speed 12 for anything faster.
speed 12 for 17.5 vegas?
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