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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 05-01-2003, 11:42 AM   #2851
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I just got my SP12M, looking forward to running it. It should be very interesting
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Old 05-04-2003, 07:06 PM   #2852
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Bump.

Anyone know if the speedmerchant rev 3 comes with lowered rear pods?
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Old 05-04-2003, 08:07 PM   #2853
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The Rev. 3 comes with stock 12L3 pod parts. The lowered pod parts are optional.
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Old 05-05-2003, 04:53 AM   #2854
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Hmm
So to get the damper tubes and lowered pods, the only way to go is with eth CK. Why would you get a speedmerchant, then?
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Old 05-05-2003, 05:14 AM   #2855
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Default YRX-12WE

My rear axle is bent, not too bad but I would like to replace it.

Anybody know where can I get one, reasonable price?
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Old 05-05-2003, 05:24 AM   #2856
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do foam tires overheat? i seem to loose rear end grip after about 6 1/2 minutes of running. i put paragon traction compound and let the tires sit for about 15 to 20 minutes before running. im not sure if the lack of grip is caused by the tires overheating or the traction compound drying up too fast before the end of an
8-minute run. anyone here experienced this before?
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Old 05-05-2003, 05:34 AM   #2857
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Quote:
Originally posted by marvi
do foam tires overheat? i seem to loose rear end grip after about 6 1/2 minutes of running. i put paragon traction compound and let the tires sit for about 15 to 20 minutes before running. im not sure if the lack of grip is caused by the tires overheating or the traction compound drying up too fast before the end of an
8-minute run. anyone here experienced this before?
Sure do have the same problem. Regular club racing day with less car out on the track. I would put the traction compound 1st time 20 min before the heat and 2nd time 5 min before heat.

I did put the compond one time, it was not enough for 8 min. But if there a big even, lots of car out on the track... Once is enough.
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Old 05-05-2003, 05:58 AM   #2858
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thanks i will try to put a 2nd coating of traction compound. but is 5 minutes enough time for it to dry out? i dont have tire warmers so it might be pretty moist before a i run the car
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Old 05-05-2003, 06:11 AM   #2859
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Quote:
Originally posted by marvi
thanks i will try to put a 2nd coating of traction compound. but is 5 minutes enough time for it to dry out? i dont have tire warmers so it might be pretty moist before a i run the car
Sure, just wipe them out just enough so you don't spin-out after the TONE. After that take note on how you finished, how dry the tries were after race. Most of the time you will run longer than 8 flat.

The thiner of a foam on your rims the faster the compound dry out.
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Old 05-05-2003, 07:52 AM   #2860
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hello, my friend and i recently purchased two rc12l3's, we are wondering what parts are required to alter hadnlign characteristics? springS? t - plates etc? do these make a great deal of difference? are the front end prone to breaking? or are there any great weaknesses with this car (we will be running it in 4 cell config)

also, seeing as though people are talking of traction compound.
We will be running on an outdoor facility made up of two basketball courts. Should we use traction compound? or, due to the semi-dusty nature of the surface, will these treatments have no effect?

Thanks in advance

ROb Storey #5
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Old 05-05-2003, 01:43 PM   #2861
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normally foam tires dont heat up per say. some compounds do require time to get to proper running temp (maybe 5 degrees above ambient though, not as much as real racing slicks though).
however your are probably expeariancing different handling triats for other reasons. like the compound wore off, or the track had so much you got more on the tire, or you wore it some, or something, i doubt its heat related.

rcpaperboy- the merchant comes with damper tubes. and to run your tires as low where you would use the lowered bulkheads is a bad idea anyway, since you dont have enough foam on the tire to make it handle properly, you mind. and yes i have run lowered bulkheads, and dont relaly suggest them.
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Old 05-05-2003, 02:56 PM   #2862
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Default lowered pods

Paperboy-
It sounds like you are comparing the Rev3 as it comes stock with the Carpet Knife Red Edition, which has all the upgrades, including the lowered pods. The Rev3 doesn't come with a number of things, like body mounts and steering linkage (can't remember if it has servo mounts), but the price is a lot lower than the Red Knife. If you add the price of some good upgrades like pods and the like, then the two cars will cost about the same. But that being said, I had to replace the pods on my Knife because the bend so easily. I put Niftech lowered pods on my Rev3 and they have never bent.

I like the range of tire size I use with lowered pods, and the bite is right with a smaller tire (for me, on carpet). Smaller tires are less likely to chunk, also.

By the way, while I was trying out different pods I weighed as many as I had just to see whose claims were true. Niftech claims that thiers are the lightest available and lighter than stock, but they are actually the heaviest of any I weighed. The lightest pods are the stock AE ones, due to the very light left side piece. But I would still use Niftech because they seem to be the strongest.
O'D
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Old 05-05-2003, 02:56 PM   #2863
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When the rear tyres go off it is usually because the tyre adative hasn't been left on the tyres long enough.
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Old 05-05-2003, 03:01 PM   #2864
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I find my tires dry out and I lose forward bite around the 6 minute mark. I think thats why the pros run big tires on 1/12, not like the shims rhey run in 1/10

As for the Rev 3, I always thought they were the same price as the CK bloody knife.

Anyone seen that new PTI virus car? Looks really nice. Batteries straight down the centre, and 2 shocks, so no T-bar or side springs.
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Old 05-05-2003, 03:24 PM   #2865
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RC Paperboy,
Do you have a link for that car?
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