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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 04-29-2008, 03:08 PM   #28621
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Thanks for the claification scottrik, Sean's wording had me a bit puzzlied. Its not a real huge issue for me as I don't go to ROAR events but with the only local track(owned by Sean and Dawn) really pushing the ROAR sanctions and rules I've decided to stop racing there.
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Old 04-29-2008, 03:21 PM   #28622
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the rules are intentionally set to be slower..

go read the thread on all of this.
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Old 04-29-2008, 03:32 PM   #28623
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mason View Post
the rules are intentionally set to be slower..

go read the thread on all of this.
I did glance thru it, slower is fine and I understand the logic behind that, but putting two uncompatible(meaning that for stock 17.5 and brushed 27t) together is a setback and promotes old outdated technology. I realize thats good for ROAR and their desire to help the brushed motor makers/tuners. But its bad for the hobby to supress new better technology to the very class of racers that needs to be increased. Sure you can run 17.5 and reap the benifits of brushless at the cost of being beat by every brushed car on the track, that is a sure turnoff to a new racer.

And yes to those that say I could just step up and run mod or superstock(neither of which are being run here local) but with no such class here I now would have to spend more $ to buy new motors to go slower, now that sounds fun.... not.
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Old 04-29-2008, 03:40 PM   #28624
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Anyways thats enough of my bitching maxepower I sent you a PM, I have several new 1/12 cars.
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Old 04-29-2008, 03:49 PM   #28625
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I think there may be some confusion about the interm year which mixes Brushless and Brushed motors in 2008.

Stock 17.5 and 27T
Super Stock 13.5, 19T and 10.5
Modified

Then in 2009 the classes will switch over to brushless only
Stock 17.5
Super Stock 13.5
Modified

As you can see the 10.5 Motor turns into a modfied class motor. Good luck keeping up with 3.5's when using a 10.5.

Batteries and weights are different stories. LiPOs have power and capacity but can be just as expensive as NiMH if the user over chargers/discharges the LiPO. Weight I feel should be lowered to encourage the switch to LiPO's in Sedans and Offroad but Keep them out of my 4-cell classes, I don't want to be running a 200KV brushless motor because of the voltage.
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Old 04-29-2008, 03:53 PM   #28626
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In the thread discussing this there were about as many people saying the 17.5 was a good match as there were people saying the 17.5 is slower. I think a lot depends on the track size and layout. Unfortunately because of the difference in the way the motors work and power output there really is no way to have an equivalence. Each will have different advantages on different types of tracks. The only way to have had it fair across the board is to totally adopt one technology or the other. But that is not practical because you hurt a large segment of the racers either way so until BL has a much bigger share of the market there has to be a transitional period where both are still ran. 17.5 was the best compromise at the time.
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Old 04-29-2008, 03:55 PM   #28627
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Oh stock is changing to BL only too? I was under the impression it was only super stock that was changing in 09.
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Old 04-29-2008, 04:13 PM   #28628
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It maybe that stock will include 27T in 2009, but it is one of those Time-will-Tell situation. But IMO brushed motors will be fine in local club races but for the sake of keeping it simple at the big races make it all Brushless, no mixed in 2009.

What makes me mad is that I can look at the paved oval nationals event and they list 17.5 and 21.5 Novak only motors. I didn't know that ROAR was ran by BRL and there are several 17.5 motors out now.
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Old 04-29-2008, 05:41 PM   #28629
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Again, when I confirmed this directly with Dawn I was told that the Stock specs (27T brushed / 17.5 bl) were NOT an interim spec for 2008 like the Superstock spec is, that it will continue with a "mixed" spec for the foreseeable future. Apparently this was done at the behest of the off-roaders who are convinced that 17.5 cannot work for them. Whether it can or can't is not for me to say (haven't raced off-road in almost 20 years now...) but the brushed motors were kept in to appease them.

I guess it amazes me that bl advocates seem to have to have EVERYTHING there way or "no way". Mod has allowed brushless mixed with brushed for, what, three seasons now. Superstock will have brushed phased completely out as of the end of this year. Stock allows bl to run and will, I'm sure, someday eliminate the brushed (or do what I told Dawn should have been done...create separate specs for on-road and off-road) from that class as well. Guys, this has been a HUGE change whether you see it that way or not. And it's changed far faster than many of us imagined it could.
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Old 04-29-2008, 05:50 PM   #28630
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RCSteve93 View Post
Yeah I second this. I have seen plenty of 17.5's that were way too slow, so they decide to gear up to keep up and they blow up. That rhymed. Anyway, right now I like tuning my motors and knowing they are cheaper and faster I will keep on using them until BL technology gets better and smaller(for ESC's).
exactly, im going to start with brushed, since thats what the guys at brownies are running, and honestly, i dont see how they can change stock from 13.5 to 17.5, yet still run the "same" as a tuned brushed motor. Doesnt anyone else think thats a little high? also, wouldnt they be able to remove the .5 here and there, and get some even number winds? if anything, why didnt they develop say a 16.5 or a 15.5?
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Old 04-29-2008, 06:57 PM   #28631
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If 17.5 is too slow, bump up to the 13.5 or 10.5's.

Or if want to be daring you car try some of those 6.4V LiFe packs. Those will add some gitty-up to that slow motor.
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Old 04-29-2008, 07:16 PM   #28632
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well, im not going to use brushless, but im saying in general wouldnt 17.5 be too slow to keep up with the brushed? because if 13.5 were running with em last year, and now they went down all the way to 17.5, its a fairly big jump. ARe those LiFe packs the ones you made?
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Old 04-29-2008, 07:44 PM   #28633
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I'm sorry, I wasn't talking about this forum, I was talking about the the lhs/track.

I will try to better manage myself in the future.

I just hate being called wrong when I'm right.

I really appreciate your time and consideration.


Quote:
Originally Posted by wingman2 View Post
"At this point as a noob in 1/12th scale I think it's time I stop listening to everyone else and figure it out for myself. Yes he shouldn't have used the word exactly because that was inaccurate."

I don't think you should put stuff like that on here mate, I for one have tried to give you as much help and advice as possible and to get that as a reply, well that's crappy to say the least.
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Old 04-29-2008, 09:21 PM   #28634
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Thanks for that link trailranger, I have some on their way to test.
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Old 04-29-2008, 10:11 PM   #28635
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You're welcome Chris.

I haven't had a chance to do hard testing with 1:12's but what I have done in oval, a 1900mah pack really puts out alot of amps. I'll be building up a CRC T-force 6-cell car so I can add another two cells in parallel and the battery pack will still be under what a 4-cell nimh weighs. I have a youtube vid of me doing a 5min oval run.

Chris, don't forget the to get 120g of lead for balast. But if you want to work on a setup with less rear weight, that would be good too.
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