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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 04-28-2008, 11:28 PM   #28591
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At this point as a noob in 1/12th scale I think it's time I stop listening to everyone else and figure it out for myself. Yes he shouldn't have used the word exactly because that was inaccurate.

But there's more to racing than racing.

I relish the day I get to evaluate that burnt bridge . . .

Quote:
Originally Posted by Scottrik View Post
Wow...that was a lot of work to prove Michael correct. For all practical purposes when installed in the chassis they're the same size. Perhaps he shouldn't have said "exactly", but his meaning was correct. They are direct replacements for each other. The only dimension they differ in any significant way is overall depth and I'd argue that your measurement from front to back is less important than the measurement from the back of the mounting tabs to the front which I'll bet is DARN close.

Way to send THAT bridge up in flames.
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Old 04-28-2008, 11:30 PM   #28592
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At this point as a noob in 1/12th scale I think it's time I stop listening to everyone else and figure it out for myself.
Yeah, because the advice you've received is SO wildly inaccurate

You go girl--figure it out on your own. Let us know how that works out for you. You've got one of the true "Oracles" of 1/12 racing right there at your disposal and you'll ignore him WHEN HE WAS, FOR ALL PRACTICAL PURPOSES, CORRECT???!!! Talk about cutting off your nose to spite your face. Ah well, it's your face I guess...
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Old 04-28-2008, 11:45 PM   #28593
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Well that's the problem with advice, it's often free and *good* advice is often fatal.

Everyone is different, so the same question is met with different replies.

I know OD is the guru, so is Layman and George Lin, Caliendo . . .

I'll bug them with the occasional question but where does that really get me?

At some point I have to understand the system in my own way. OD doesn't have the time. Layman/Lin/Caliendo have different answers to the same question. This is really valuable.

I appreciate your feedback because communication is really what it's all about.

If I didn't care I wouldn't have posted my servo salvo . . .




Quote:
Originally Posted by Scottrik View Post
Yeah, because the advice you've received is SO wildly inaccurate

You go girl--figure it out on your own. Let us know how that works out for you. You've got one of the true "Oracles" of 1/12 racing right there at your disposal and you'll ignore him WHEN HE WAS, FOR ALL PRACTICAL PURPOSES, CORRECT???!!! Talk about cutting off your nose to spite your face. Ah well, it's your face I guess...

Last edited by boscoj; 04-28-2008 at 11:58 PM.
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Old 04-29-2008, 12:20 AM   #28594
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I am in the process of buying a Kawada M300RSX.. I was wondering if it is possible to convert the rear end to a corally sp12x rear end?? i know i can buy the associated rear end conversion for the M300RSX. any help would be greatly appreciated
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Old 04-29-2008, 12:24 AM   #28595
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So would this mean it will take some time before the brushless esc's will get considerably smaller? Is there going to be better performance when a new one comes out? I just measured the space I have in my L4 and it would be a snug fit. I would hate to buy one and find out a much better one is coming out soon. Decisions, decisions
No it doesn't mean it is going to take decades again. Technology has increased a lot allready. The Tekin R1 and soon to release RS as well as the KO coming out are smaller then the typical BL system so sizes are allready starting to come down.
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Old 04-29-2008, 12:30 AM   #28596
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No it doesn't mean it is going to take decades again. Technology has increased a lot allready. The Tekin R1 and soon to release RS as well as the KO coming out are smaller then the typical BL system so sizes are allready starting to come down.
I'm wondering how much of the size of the BL speedos is because so far they are all Brushless/Brushed compatible? Does anyone have some info on this?
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Old 04-29-2008, 01:11 AM   #28597
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Originally Posted by boscoj View Post
Well that's the problem with advice, it's often free and *good* advice is often fatal.

Everyone is different, so the same question is met with different replies.

I know OD is the guru, so is Layman and George Lin, Caliendo . . .

I'll bug them with the occasional question but where does that really get me?

At some point I have to understand the system in my own way. OD doesn't have the time. Layman/Lin/Caliendo have different answers to the same question. This is really valuable.

I appreciate your feedback because communication is really what it's all about.

If I didn't care I wouldn't have posted my servo salvo . . .
Jeff,
I'm a little surprised that you would take offense at my reply to your post about the size of the two servos, it wasn't intended as a slight on you in any way. There is so much misinformation flying around that I assumed someone had told you the servos were radically different. Truth is, I have never measured either one, since I can interchange the two without any modifications to the set up. I stand corrected that they have different dimensions, but the differences don't matter in the practical sense. Use whichever one you want, they are both good. Most of my team drivers prefer the 9602. In my own experience the 9602 is better, in so much as a metal gear servo holds up longer. And the 9602 is ssmmmooothe!

Layman and George are team drivers, they will always try to help anyone who asks. They are not only great drivers, they are good people, and that is a requirement for getting on my team.

In the end you have do have to figure it out for yourself, you just have to filter all the information everyone gives you. Any time you would like to have some more, just ask

Scottrick,
Thanks for having my back, friend. You are verbose to an extreme, and some other words I have to go look up
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Old 04-29-2008, 02:53 AM   #28598
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I'm wondering how much of the size of the BL speedos is because so far they are all Brushless/Brushed compatible? Does anyone have some info on this?

I hear ya on that...with BL on the rise and finally legalized in racing...when are manufacturers going to make BL only ESCs? I mean look at the percentage of people who buy a BL ESC and run a brushed motor with it...I'd think it's got to be down around the 1% level maybe as high as 5%.
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Old 04-29-2008, 08:14 AM   #28599
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great drivers...good people...requirement for getting on my team.
Ah, another dream dashed. I'm a hack driver AND a real bastard to boot...

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You are verbose to an extreme, and some other words I have to go look up
I kinda like "pedantic" (my friend Bambi calls me that). And "bastard". I'll answer to "cranky sob".

Any time, big guy. Wish like hell I raced somewhere where I had you available to sort out questions. You, Bodine or Jason B...I'd never figure anything out on my own again.
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Old 04-29-2008, 08:16 AM   #28600
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Originally Posted by InspGadgt View Post
I mean look at the percentage of people who buy a BL ESC and run a brushed motor with it...I'd think it's got to be down around the 1% level maybe as high as 5%.
100% of the bl esc's run in our club racing last year were run with brushed motors. Then again, it was a sample-size of exactly ONE.

We didn't allow bl last year (except in Mod which we didn't run at all) and one guy ran 19T TaxiCab with the GTB he had from his Mod car a couple years ago.
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Old 04-29-2008, 08:20 AM   #28601
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Well that's the problem with advice, it's often free and *good* advice is often fatal.
Fair enough. I think the FIRST thing you should try is that different under-weight spring on each side idea you had. iir, .016 on one side and .018 on the other so you can quit pulling to one side or the other on acceleration. Sometimes our own ideas are more potentially "fatal" (as any idea in a toy car can be, right?) than pretty much any idea anyone else can provide.
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Old 04-29-2008, 08:38 AM   #28602
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Woah....alot of splitting hairs over that S9602. I have a S9602 in one of my 1:12's and 5g and 1mm difference isn't much to be upset about.


Scottrik, tell me about those Taxi Cabs..have a link to a body or picture?
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Old 04-29-2008, 08:46 AM   #28603
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Scottrik, tell me about those Taxi Cabs..have a link to a body or picture?
LOL...they're all over the web!! Ah, I'm sure MOST call 'em (T)ouring (C)ar. I'm a hopelessly jaded 1/12 racer and figure anything THAT big with four doors and is ricocheting off THAT much stuff has GOT to be a (T)axi (C)ab, right? Can't be coincidence that the initials match, can it?
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Old 04-29-2008, 09:28 AM   #28604
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i guess the brushless thing is advancing slowly, but surely. The tekins are pretty small, but i would rather have it square, than a rectangle, but its still a better size. That KO looks great, and im wondering how big itll be, a new ko means a new Hara! lol. I think im good with my small brushed system for now
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Old 04-29-2008, 09:39 AM   #28605
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Scottrik, I really thought it there was a taxi cab class for 1/12's

I am so disappointed now..I was thinking Taymia had MiniCoopers and
the 1/12's could have a yellow taxi class.



If I was racing taxi cabs, I would paint it like an Iraqi Taxi,
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