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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 04-28-2008, 07:53 AM   #28576
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Quote:
Originally Posted by halfempty View Post
I'am thinking of making the jump to brushless (mostly because of laziness) I'am looking at the Novak GTB 4 cell / SS 10.5 is this a good combo any pros and cons with it?
Pros: Extremely reliable, best customer service/support in the business

Cons: Damn that thing has a big footprint.

That said, I've got the GTB for all three of my cars.
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Old 04-28-2008, 11:15 AM   #28577
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halfempty, how long can you hold out for switching to brushless?

If you can hold about about 6 months I am sure Novaks will be smaller. They allready have a 380 sensored system that can handle the rated power of a 10.5 motor so its just a mater of time to make some software and rebadge the mongoose.
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Old 04-28-2008, 01:23 PM   #28578
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FOR SALE
A CTX-C Cell Master Rheinhard Version Charger/Discharger, the charger has only been used four times and is in great condition, it has just been sitting around at my house for months. There are no scratches on the charger. Along with the charger, there is a S.H.E. 14 amp power supply and a Muchmore Powerstation. I am asking 100.00 shipped for everything. If you have any questions or would like pictures please email me at Jon@vgsportsinc.com. I will only ship to the lower 48 states and I only accept Paypal.

Thanks
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Old 04-28-2008, 01:41 PM   #28579
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Just getting back into racing and I was wondering how your maintaining your cells. For 1/12 stock. Its been over 2 years since I last raced and it seems that allot of new cells are out. Different cells always reacted differently than others so whats your strategy.

Phil
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Old 04-28-2008, 02:12 PM   #28580
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IndyPhil26 View Post
Just getting back into racing and I was wondering how your maintaining your cells. For 1/12 stock. Its been over 2 years since I last raced and it seems that allot of new cells are out. Different cells always reacted differently than others so whats your strategy.

Phil
I've had my IB4200shv for over two years now, and i have followed the same routine on each of my packs without a single cell blowing up or dropping to zero volts.
1. Turn up to race and equalize cells to 0.9volts per cell (never go below 0.9v per cell).
2. Charge cells at 5amps with cutoff set to 2mv per cell temp at 47degrees C and max charge of 4500mA.
3. After the race let the pack cool down next equalize cells to 0.9volts per cell (never go below 0.9v per cell).
4. Charge pack and put in 1000mA and store away at room temperature.
5. If you are leaving the packs for longer than a week between use then put more charge into the pack.

This has worked for me and i'm still getting 4100+mA into my packs, they do lack in punch but have plenty of runtime in them.

hope this helps
Steve
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Old 04-28-2008, 02:20 PM   #28581
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Hi guys, the 1/18th AE shocks have worked great on my 12th car. They don't leak or fall apart after a hit. If you think that it's made to be durable enough for an off road car, then it will certainly be durable enough for a 12th on road car.

As for end point adjustment, I have the steering travel set at 100%, then adjust the end points just below the amount needed NOT to make the servo buzz at full lock. Then I steer full left (with the car on a tape join or something similar) and push the car 180 degrees around. Then I turn the car around at that point, steer full right and then push it back to where it started from. Hopefully, it will return back to the original position on the tape join. If not, I turn down the side needed and do the whole thing again until the car returns to the start point. I then turn the steering down to about 75% and do the whole process again just to check that all is well. When I get to a track, the overall steering is set to get around the tightest corner so not to scrub any speed off by having to much steering lock. Sometimes this means that if I have an accident and end up facing the wrong way, I don't have enough steering lock to get the car facing the right way!
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Old 04-28-2008, 02:36 PM   #28582
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Default novak brushless

i've got the novak gtb brushless with their 10.5 motor in my genX and it's been flawless. It works great with 4cells (and no reciever pack is necessary), and I'm very happy with mine. A few guys at our track have chosen other brands (mostly LRP or speed passion) and some have had frustrating teething problems or compatability issues. By contrast, my novak system (emphasis on the word system) works perfectly and is plenty fast. I've had none of the shut-down or radio compatibility issues that I've seen others suffer with. The other speedos (especially the speed passion) do seem to have more adjustments available but I've not had any trouble finding a good setup and driveability with my novak. For a simple to use, and ultra reliable plug and play brushless system, I'd say that the Novak setup is an excellent choice. And it sure doesn't hurt either that the pricing on their combo package is very reasonable. Just be ready to put a huge rollout in the car. Mine seems to like about 60mm on a fairly large carpet track. Even with this huge gear it's still nowhere near the heat limitation that's called out in the instructions. But it is geared way higher than they suggest. The motors don't have big RPM but they have so much torque that they can easily pull most any gear that will fit in a 1/12th scale car.
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Old 04-28-2008, 03:21 PM   #28583
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trailranger View Post
halfempty, how long can you hold out for switching to brushless?

If you can hold about about 6 months I am sure Novaks will be smaller. They allready have a 380 sensored system that can handle the rated power of a 10.5 motor so its just a mater of time to make some software and rebadge the mongoose.
hold up, really? the mongoose can handle say a 17.5? with what mods?
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Old 04-28-2008, 03:33 PM   #28584
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I never said it can handle, I said its rated power was good enough for 10.5. The software which drives the motor would have to be devloped. A 380 motor and 540 motor require different programs to get the most out of the motors.

Novak is aware that the Footprint on their GTB's is a little large for the 1:12 scales. They developed a Mini scale 380 system that based on power capability can handle maybe some of the stock brushless motor in 540 size. It would be awesome if there was 540 mode in the Mongoose for those who race just the stock/super stock brushless classes. I would assume Novaks approach would not be to bridge 1:12 and 1/18 scales with the same ESC but to Bridge 1:12 and 1:10 scales with one ESC. The reason would provide a more powerful esc that can be used in 1:10 sedan and 1:12 with any motor. Since my XBR could not handle all the motors I may use, I upgraded to a GTB in my sedan. A modifed Mongoose system would also limit motor selection so not ideal for all racers. But most of my 1:12 racing was done with a 13.5 motor anyways so I would consider a smaller system even if it limited my racing option to 21.5/17.5/13.5 and 10.5 motors. The current 4-cell GTB i have takes up too much space IMO but I did make it fit.

Last edited by trailranger; 04-28-2008 at 03:52 PM.
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Old 04-28-2008, 03:50 PM   #28585
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ahh, gotchya. I dont see why brushless escs are so large? youd think theyd be a lot smaller by now, but i guess not.
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Old 04-28-2008, 04:01 PM   #28586
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It took decades for brushed ESCs to come down in size...BL is still new so it's still large but it won't be long before they get smaller.
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Old 04-28-2008, 06:18 PM   #28587
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You've got to remember too that a brushless ESC is the equivalent of three brushed ESCs in one case - one ESC for each phase. Hence the reason for the size being so big. The size will come down.
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Old 04-28-2008, 09:07 PM   #28588
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So would this mean it will take some time before the brushless esc's will get considerably smaller? Is there going to be better performance when a new one comes out? I just measured the space I have in my L4 and it would be a snug fit. I would hate to buy one and find out a much better one is coming out soon. Decisions, decisions
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Old 04-28-2008, 10:37 PM   #28589
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Quote:
Originally Posted by odpurple View Post
9602 is a better servo IMO. I don't know about the weight but the 9602 is a metal gear servo, the 9650 is not. Both servos are exactly the same size, so your information there is wrong.
Hey OD, don't mean to bust bawls but I have a few things to say about my servo inquiry.

We don't "know" each other. I've met you twice. I appreciate the time you've taken with me in person.

For future reference, when I say this "thing" is larger and heavier this is because I believe what I say. Call it a "belief engine". That which I know to be true, finite, becomes, in my mind, a belief.

So I take mild offense in your statement . . .
"Both servos are exactly the same size, so your information there is wrong."

If I were not an asshole I would let this lay. But I am an asshole. Being a noob on this forum and have vested trust in your advice I feel obligated to inform you of the physical and performance attributes of these two servos. The Futaba S9650 and the S9602.

Side by side specs . . .


The S9650 on my scale tipped out at 24.1, minus horn and screw . . . prolly 2 grams . . .


The S9602 . . .


Tall S9650 . . .


Tall S9602 . . .


Wide S9650 . . .


Wide S9602 . . .


When I "say" something I mean it . ..

That is all . ..

Last edited by boscoj; 04-28-2008 at 10:59 PM.
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Old 04-28-2008, 11:18 PM   #28590
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Wow...that was a lot of work to prove Michael correct. For all practical purposes when installed in the chassis they're the same size. Perhaps he shouldn't have said "exactly", but his meaning was correct. They are direct replacements for each other. The only dimension they differ in any significant way is overall depth and I'd argue that your measurement from front to back is less important than the measurement from the back of the mounting tabs to the front which I'll bet is DARN close.

Way to send THAT bridge up in flames.
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