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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 04-26-2008, 10:26 PM   #28546
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I'm new to 12th scale and saw rear pods that extend the wheelbase by 10mm. What advantages are there to using these in regards to handling etc ?
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Old 04-26-2008, 10:45 PM   #28547
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Originally Posted by halfempty View Post
I'm new to 12th scale and saw rear pods that extend the wheelbase by 10mm. What advantages are there to using these in regards to handling etc ?
I've never heard of them, but generally, it should make the car more stable and smooth to drive. It will also give it a little less steering, but some setup changes can change that.
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Old 04-26-2008, 11:26 PM   #28548
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Originally Posted by odpurple View Post
1. MRT PTX transponder, cloned shrink wrap version. It has my number in it plus 20 others I can switch to if I loan the car.
2. Sphere Competition 2007. They are still made in addition to the TC version.
3. That is a 17.5, I've run 13.5 and 10.5 with no problems. At Vegas last year we ran a 5.5 in mod with an older Sphere Comp with no problems.
4. The Cyclone shock is just the best one available now. It's a real shock with a bladder and all. The shaft is a little long, you can use it as is and sometimes run out of spring adjustment, or put a spacer under the piston.
The shock has a great feel to it, Josh Cyrul has even run them on the Scythe.

Magic Smoke!

Can you give me some more info on this shock? I see you call it a Cyclone . . .where could one buy this shock, who makes it? Thanks!
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Old 04-26-2008, 11:39 PM   #28549
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RCSteve93 View Post
I've never heard of them, but generally, it should make the car more stable and smooth to drive. It will also give it a little less steering, but some setup changes can change that.
IRS makes them. Would that mean they would be better on a longer faster track? Could you give me some examples of some of the setup changes?
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Old 04-26-2008, 11:42 PM   #28550
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Originally Posted by andrewdoherty View Post
Can you give me some more info on this shock? I see you call it a Cyclone . . .where could one buy this shock, who makes it? Thanks!
I believe its the shock from the hotbodies cyclone. I just ordered one from stormer hobbies but i think they are on back order.
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Old 04-27-2008, 03:34 AM   #28551
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Originally Posted by andrewdoherty View Post
Can you give me some more info on this shock? I see you call it a Cyclone . . .where could one buy this shock, who makes it? Thanks!
It is the Hot Bodies Cyclone 12 shock, as halfempty said. I have purchased them from Stormer Hobbies as well as Jake's Performance Hobbies www.jphracing.com Jake's had the best price, Stormer is just a bit more but a great place to buy (so is Jake's)
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Old 04-27-2008, 09:03 AM   #28552
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Default Help with Assoc 12L upgrade

I have an Associated 12L with the shock that mounts on top of the damper post and then attaches to the rear of the upper pod plate. The new body that I want to install hits the shock.

Will the 12L3 upper pod plate that uses the damper disk and has the shock running forward to the antenna mount fit this car?

Any recommendations on a shock upgrade? Will the cyclone shock work?

Thanks, L.
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Old 04-27-2008, 09:20 AM   #28553
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wait, whats so special about the hotbodies shock? something about the bladder?
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Old 04-27-2008, 10:12 AM   #28554
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Halfempty, the IRS extended motor pods are normally used in Oval racing. Yes it makes the car stable at higher speeds.
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Old 04-27-2008, 10:14 AM   #28555
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Yes I soldered those battery packs correctly. I needed to make a 6.4V pack and I had four 3.2V cells. So I wired two sets of cells in parallel then wired those sets in series. That explains the 3" buss bar.
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Old 04-27-2008, 11:37 AM   #28556
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has anybody run the Reedy Challanger 19t motor in a 12th yet
Any tuning tips for running it with 4cell?
I have run mine and got as high as 57mm per rev, seems a very grunty motor even more than the checkpoint money.
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Old 04-27-2008, 12:12 PM   #28557
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Quote:
Originally Posted by halfempty View Post
IRS makes them. Would that mean they would be better on a longer faster track? Could you give me some examples of some of the setup changes?
IRS163 is the part number? If it is, I would honestly stay with the stock ones. They are fine for all types of tracks. But generally speaking a longer wheelbase is better for bigger, faster, longer and more flowing tracks. But if you still got them I would run a softer compound front tire. Also If you have an ABP (Adjustable Battery Position) chassis I would move the batteries all the way back if they aren't already. Also bump up your dual rate on the radio and it should be good to go.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lee_123 View Post
I have an Associated 12L with the shock that mounts on top of the damper post and then attaches to the rear of the upper pod plate. The new body that I want to install hits the shock.

Will the 12L3 upper pod plate that uses the damper disk and has the shock running forward to the antenna mount fit this car?

Any recommendations on a shock upgrade? Will the cyclone shock work?

Thanks, L.
I hear the Cyclone 12 shock is real good. From my understanding it is a full shock just like on touring cars, just smaller. I also hear the new AE through shocks are real good. On my cars I use the CRC and IRS shocks. As long as you build them right, they are real good. IMO any shock besides the old AE shock are good. The old AE one that the cap snaps in is horribly inconsistent and a pain to build.
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Old 04-27-2008, 01:10 PM   #28558
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Yes those are the rear pods, I'll stick with the stock ones since the track isn't that big. I don't fully understand what the dual rate adjustment does mine is at 100% now. Should it be turned down? I use a Magnum 3PKS if thats any help.
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Old 04-27-2008, 02:18 PM   #28559
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I really like the Associated 1/18th buggy shocks for my 12th car. They are 'proper' shocks but the regular AE or CRC 12th springs fit them. If you get a pack of 4, fill them with differant grade oil and then can do real quick back to back tests. I do that and find it helps cut down setup time when you get a new circuit. Hope that helps, Chris.
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Old 04-27-2008, 04:59 PM   #28560
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Quote:
Originally Posted by halfempty View Post
Yes those are the rear pods, I'll stick with the stock ones since the track isn't that big. I don't fully understand what the dual rate adjustment does mine is at 100% now. Should it be turned down? I use a Magnum 3PKS if thats any help.
Dual rate is the steering throw adjustment. It sets how much your car will steer left to right. So if you have to much steering just dial the dual rate down 5% or so at a time until it is good. Dual rate is generally the most efficient way to reduce steering.
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