R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

    Hide Wikipost
Old 10-28-2016, 12:43 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: 1/12 forum
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: fenton06
This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

Print Wikipost

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 04-22-2008, 12:41 AM   #28501
Tech Elite
 
odpurple's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: San Francisco
Posts: 2,187
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Scottrik View Post
Then again, after Sunday there's only Multi-variable Calculus between me and that math degree. Look out 8th grade math students...Mr. Smith is coming to a classroom near you. Fall '08 release date.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Slapmaster6000 View Post
Kids! I've seen Scott's text books. Just one word...... "run!"
OMG I'm so glad I'm not in school any more. Congratulations Scott!
__________________
TOP Racing USA--OD Racing--Novak--Power Push--J Spec
odpurple is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-22-2008, 02:13 AM   #28502
Tech Apprentice
 
Notso's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: East Bay Area
Posts: 70
Default

Thats not true I'm gonna school ya in mini!
__________________
S&M HOBBIES/RED LINE OIL
Notso is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-22-2008, 09:04 AM   #28503
Tech Adept
 
boscoj's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Menlo Park, CA
Posts: 142
Default

About the diff rings being flat, I was thinking if I keep the rings in the same place in the diff all the time and get some nice smooth grooves worn in them wouldn't that take care of the flatness issue and increase the surface area so the diff is "grippier" . . .

Everyone at the track says, "Oh those are grooved pretty bad, you should switch sides/them out."

?

Quote:
Originally Posted by InspGadgt View Post
I run as many diff balls as possible. Even if the diff ring does flex some of the pressure will still be distributed across all the balls, flexing or not. This does allow you to run less tension to get your desired diff setting. The one problem I have noticed though is that diff rings, being stamped, are rarely flat from inside to outside. A bit of sanding fixes that though.
boscoj is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-22-2008, 09:30 AM   #28504
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 649
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Grooves in the diff rings aren't always all that bad but I always sand them off when I rebuild the diff. Sanding is the only way to get the rings flat (short of a machine shop).

I never run the inside and outside row of diff balls in the Kimbrough gears. It always seems to make my diff act all funny. I don't know if it's the extra drag of so many balls or that the inner balls turn slower than the outside balls. I just don't like both rows.

On a side note, I'm finding that the rollouts that Novak has on the site for 12th are a little "conservative". Ok, a lot conservative. So I've been working on a little spreadsheet to give a better starting point for 12th (and a GTB) based on what I was running at CEFX and a couple times at Grand Rapids. The chart is based on KV ratings so it might work with some of the other motors but I haven't tried many of them yet. I need to run a little more mod this year to update the mod side (I am the master of thermalling the speedo).

The sheet's just a starting point and you should check the temp but gear for LAPTIMES. Temp is just for safety. (the 21.5 rollout was just a curve fit I didn't run it)
Attached Files
File Type: pdf 12th gearing.pdf (9.0 KB, 248 views)
Fred_B is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-22-2008, 11:23 AM   #28505
Tech Elite
 
odpurple's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: San Francisco
Posts: 2,187
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Notso View Post
Thats not true I'm gonna school ya in mini!
__________________
TOP Racing USA--OD Racing--Novak--Power Push--J Spec
odpurple is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-22-2008, 03:16 PM   #28506
Tech Elite
 
odpurple's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: San Francisco
Posts: 2,187
Default test

Hoo boy! I just learned to insert an image! Laugh all you want, but it's a big accomplishment for a computer illiterate like me

Since we were discussing balanced motor pods, here is a pic of the latest OD12 prototype with a weight centered pod

[IMG][/IMG]
__________________
TOP Racing USA--OD Racing--Novak--Power Push--J Spec
odpurple is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-22-2008, 03:19 PM   #28507
Tech Elite
 
RCSteve93's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Long Island, New York
Posts: 4,603
Trader Rating: 11 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by odpurple View Post
Hoo boy! I just learned to insert an image! Laugh all you want, but it's a big accomplishment for a computer illiterate like me

Since we were discussing balanced motor pods, here is a pic of the latest OD12 prototype with a weight centered pod

[IMG][/IMG]
One word... Beastly!!

That is one sick 12th.
__________________
rm -rf /windows
RCSteve93 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-22-2008, 03:24 PM   #28508
Tech Apprentice
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Belgium
Posts: 53
Default

!beautiful car! another great design by OD nice work man
__________________
- Vantomme LMP12 > 100% lipo <
- Vantomme M12
- Vantomme E12
- Vantomme M10
Benedict is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-22-2008, 06:27 PM   #28509
Tech Elite
 
Slapmaster6000's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Edmonds, Wash.
Posts: 2,949
Trader Rating: 14 (100%+)
Default

Very nice work indeed. I always have a soft spot for t-bars.

What's the little pc board thingy in the shrink wrap? Is that one of the older Spheres? Which wind b/l motor and does the speedo get too hot without the heat sink. Only reason I ask this is I plan on torturing my old Sphere in a naked state with a 13.5. When I let the magic smoke out, I will replace it. And last but not least, how do you like that shock?

bb
Slapmaster6000 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-22-2008, 07:46 PM   #28510
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 1,073
Trader Rating: 14 (100%+)
Default

I believe the little shrink wrap thingy is a MRT Transponder?
__________________
Speedpassion : Speedpower : East Coast Bodies
thunderbt3 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-22-2008, 07:49 PM   #28511
Tech Elite
 
odpurple's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: San Francisco
Posts: 2,187
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Slapmaster6000 View Post
Very nice work indeed. I always have a soft spot for t-bars.

What's the little pc board thingy in the shrink wrap? Is that one of the older Spheres? Which wind b/l motor and does the speedo get too hot without the heat sink. Only reason I ask this is I plan on torturing my old Sphere in a naked state with a 13.5. When I let the magic smoke out, I will replace it. And last but not least, how do you like that shock?

bb
1. MRT PTX transponder, cloned shrink wrap version. It has my number in it plus 20 others I can switch to if I loan the car.
2. Sphere Competition 2007. They are still made in addition to the TC version.
3. That is a 17.5, I've run 13.5 and 10.5 with no problems. At Vegas last year we ran a 5.5 in mod with an older Sphere Comp with no problems.
4. The Cyclone shock is just the best one available now. It's a real shock with a bladder and all. The shaft is a little long, you can use it as is and sometimes run out of spring adjustment, or put a spacer under the piston.
The shock has a great feel to it, Josh Cyrul has even run them on the Scythe.

Magic Smoke!
__________________
TOP Racing USA--OD Racing--Novak--Power Push--J Spec
odpurple is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-22-2008, 09:40 PM   #28512
Tech Elite
 
Slapmaster6000's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Edmonds, Wash.
Posts: 2,949
Trader Rating: 14 (100%+)
Default

Well since this is the 12th scale forum, I will ask the obvious then.... that xpt looks petite, easy to place and I guess the cloning feature could be useful (just read a little bit in that forum).... but is it sensitive to carbon fiber like the AMB counterparts? I know if I am on a loop track or bridge track, I may remount the PT so it will be picked up the best.

I don't even recognize the LRP speedos anymore once the heat sink is in place. I have a Sphere Comp as well, but it's stuck in the touring car. Just don't recall what it looked like.
Slapmaster6000 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-22-2008, 10:25 PM   #28513
Tech Champion
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Hawaii, USA
Posts: 7,157
Default

From what I read the signal on the SPT is a bit stronger then the AMB one so it should be less susceptible to graphite. I have a couple on the way so I should know more in a couple weeks.
InspGadgt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-23-2008, 12:42 AM   #28514
Tech Elite
 
odpurple's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: San Francisco
Posts: 2,187
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Slapmaster6000 View Post
Well since this is the 12th scale forum, I will ask the obvious then.... that xpt looks petite, easy to place and I guess the cloning feature could be useful (just read a little bit in that forum).... but is it sensitive to carbon fiber like the AMB counterparts? I know if I am on a loop track or bridge track, I may remount the PT so it will be picked up the best.

I don't even recognize the LRP speedos anymore once the heat sink is in place. I have a Sphere Comp as well, but it's stuck in the touring car. Just don't recall what it looked like.
You pegged it, Brian. I have to mount my shrink wrapped PTXs on top of the servo to work with a bridge and can leave them on the chassis on a loop track. The original iPT has a stronger signal (I also have a few of those) and doesn't care where it is placed.

You guess the cloned number could be useful? Try never having to go check your car to see what the transponder number is. No matter how many classes I enter I can enter the same number and never have to move a transponder around

Your esc is in the touring car? What is that? I don't recognize their existence. Take it out! Put it in the 1/12th. Hopefully the 1/12th won't reject the transplant
__________________
TOP Racing USA--OD Racing--Novak--Power Push--J Spec
odpurple is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-23-2008, 01:03 AM   #28515
Tech Elite
 
odpurple's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: San Francisco
Posts: 2,187
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by RCSteve93 View Post
One word... Beastly!!

That is one sick 12th.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Benedict View Post
!beautiful car! another great design by OD nice work man
Thanks guys,
Benedict, please post some pics of your new car when you can, it's a beauty
__________________
TOP Racing USA--OD Racing--Novak--Power Push--J Spec
odpurple is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
New to the forum mig rod Electric Off-Road 1 01-05-2008 05:23 PM
hi i need help and im new to the forum racer4 Rookie Zone 4 01-21-2007 02:37 PM
Why is this forum listed under the On Road Forum? sport10 Onroad Nitro Engine Zone 0 01-11-2007 08:06 AM
Forum Changes... futureal Wisconsin & Illinois Racing 3 10-28-2002 09:26 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 09:14 PM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net

SEO by vBSEO 3.5.0