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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 04-20-2008, 10:28 PM   #28486
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sedonaite View Post
I have a couple of questions for a newbie to this scale

I'm getting a CRC Gen-X, I would like to run Lipo and Brushless
  • What suggestions can I get for an ESC, combo
  • Lipo size, given it would be replacing the 4 cell, any special considerations
  • Best motor size for new to this scale person running on carpet
Many Thanks in advance for the help
For electronics, I suggest anything that has a small footprint and is fairly lightweight. As of now the small electronic speed controllers that fit fairly well are the lrp sphere (non-tc spec) and the Novak gtb 4 cell specific controller.

For racing 12th scale at any tracks across the nation, the power source allowed is 4-cell nickel metal hydride battery packs. There is no lipo equivalent to 4 cell. 7.4 volts is too much. Past history has proven that.

Best brushless for a beginner in 12th scale is probably going to be set per track, and your best bet would be to go to your local track where you will be racing and find out what the classes are like. Most tracks that are racing stock class are running 27 turn motors with 17.5 brushless..

good luck
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Old 04-20-2008, 10:30 PM   #28487
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why not just use some AE motor shims if you want to move the motor over and don't want to commit to a new pod? $2.50 a shim. I can get two shims in my pods so that is about 4mm. But I just use them on my 1:10 oval car. Didn't put much though on my 1:12.
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Old 04-20-2008, 10:38 PM   #28488
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Originally Posted by trailranger View Post
why not just use some AE motor shims if you want to move the motor over and don't want to commit to a new pod? $2.50 a shim. I can get two shims in my pods so that is about 4mm. But I just use them on my 1:10 oval car. Didn't put much though on my 1:12.
Shims would move the motor to the left, it needs to move to the right to balance the pod.
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Old 04-20-2008, 10:54 PM   #28489
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I will have to check out the CRC shorter diff hub. That is ultimately on the wish list as it would allow all manufacturers back in the game if the motor plate was move over. Yea, as I recall I needed to move the LRP/Reedy's over 3.6mm (not 3.5mm), Novaks maybe slightly more or less. Then the only sampling I used was from a 5.5. 17.5 & 13.5's may have just a little more wire in the right place requiring a slightly different balance number.

As far as marketability.... well lets just say I haven't retired off of my previous work either. The motor shift makes sense. If others purchase it, then that's all the sense it needs to make. The one proto rear that I do have allows the b/l motor to fall right in the bottom without disassembly. Not that is going to be a big deal, once the motor is installed, it's likely going to be there for the life of the car.
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Old 04-20-2008, 10:57 PM   #28490
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Ran a 1/12th today since the 2007 ROAR Reg.'s and I definitely have to bring it back out.....just don't know when though
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Old 04-20-2008, 11:16 PM   #28491
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Originally Posted by JayBee View Post
Ran a 1/12th today since the 2007 ROAR Reg.'s and I definitely have to bring it back out.....just don't know when though
Make it soon dude. Your 1/12th buds miss you
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Old 04-21-2008, 12:11 AM   #28492
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Originally Posted by Scottrik View Post
You know me Brian...I'll buy pretty much any product that claims to solve pretty much any problem. Let me know when they're ready. :
Yer such a tool. I have a bridge I'd like to talk to you about

Actually, I would give a try to anything Brian makes cuz he's real smart.
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Old 04-21-2008, 09:15 PM   #28493
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Default Hey OD . . . coming on Tuesday? Missed you last week . . .

Hey OD . . . coming on Tuesday? Missed you last week . . .

I would really like a set of those wheel washers . . .

What do you think about this . . . previous post . . .

"Diff ball holes on the Kimbrough spurs . . .

I was wondering if anyone runs extra diff balls in the spur, like some extra on the inner ring of holes to sort of distribute the load more evenly?

Thoughts?"
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Old 04-21-2008, 09:22 PM   #28494
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I wouldn't run the inner & outer ring of holes due to the diff ring may flex just enough that you will only pick up the inner ring of balls, leaving the outter balls just going for a ride. Then again, it may work fine. You will just have a heavier diff packed with balls. If you are having slip issues, I suggest picking up one of my thrust kits and put that issue to rest.

bb
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Old 04-21-2008, 09:55 PM   #28495
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Yeah I was looking at the thrust kits. Do you have a website?

I was thinking with more diff balls one could lower the clamping force of the assembly making the bearings work better and last longer . . . just a thought. All these extra holes . . .

Quote:
Originally Posted by Slapmaster6000 View Post
I wouldn't run the inner & outer ring of holes due to the diff ring may flex just enough that you will only pick up the inner ring of balls, leaving the outter balls just going for a ride. Then again, it may work fine. You will just have a heavier diff packed with balls. If you are having slip issues, I suggest picking up one of my thrust kits and put that issue to rest.

bb
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Old 04-21-2008, 10:34 PM   #28496
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I run as many diff balls as possible. Even if the diff ring does flex some of the pressure will still be distributed across all the balls, flexing or not. This does allow you to run less tension to get your desired diff setting. The one problem I have noticed though is that diff rings, being stamped, are rarely flat from inside to outside. A bit of sanding fixes that though.
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Old 04-21-2008, 11:41 PM   #28497
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Actually, I would give a try to anything Brian makes cuz he's real smart.
God knows ONE of the three of us has to be and, apparently, it sure as hell ain't you or I...

Then again, after Sunday there's only Multi-variable Calculus between me and that math degree. Look out 8th grade math students...Mr. Smith is coming to a classroom near you. Fall '08 release date.
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Old 04-22-2008, 12:20 AM   #28498
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Originally Posted by Scottrik View Post
God knows ONE of the three of us has to be and, apparently, it sure as hell ain't you or I...

Then again, after Sunday there's only Multi-variable Calculus between me and that math degree. Look out 8th grade math students...Mr. Smith is coming to a classroom near you. Fall '08 release date.

I don't think you want to elevate me up on a pedestal. I like to think that I cleared the bar at high school, but sometimes I think I just hit my head on it.

Kids! I've seen Scott's text books. Just one word...... "run!"
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Old 04-22-2008, 12:25 AM   #28499
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Trust me, build your diff with one of the Slapmaster thrust bearings. Once set, you'll never have to touch it and it'll last like you wouldn't believe!! Great stuff.
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Old 04-22-2008, 12:31 AM   #28500
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boscoj View Post
Hey OD . . . coming on Tuesday? Missed you last week . . .

I would really like a set of those wheel washers . . .

What do you think about this . . . previous post . . .

"Diff ball holes on the Kimbrough spurs . . .

I was wondering if anyone runs extra diff balls in the spur, like some extra on the inner ring of holes to sort of distribute the load more evenly?

Thoughts?"
I'm really busy with work, not sure if I can make it Tuesday. I'll try to get down there and give you those wheel washers.

I always run 12 diff balls, for the reason you stated. I use PRS spurs and they only have the one ball circle. I agree with your theory but I don't know if the extra balls will make a significant difference
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