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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 04-15-2008, 03:17 PM   #28471
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Ok, first roullout is done. I drove 8min 30s with an old 12t brushed motor, but I was not (yet) as fast as some Corallys with Lipos and Nimhs. Handling was nearly the same as normal.
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Old 04-16-2008, 03:36 AM   #28472
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Default RC12L3 Diff Balls

Hi Chaps,

Can someone please let me know what size the diff balls are in the RC12l3?

Thanks Ahead
Dan
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Old 04-16-2008, 04:59 AM   #28473
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Quote:
Originally Posted by losidan View Post
Hi Chaps,

Can someone please let me know what size the diff balls are in the RC12l3?

Thanks Ahead
Dan
1/8"
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Old 04-16-2008, 01:49 PM   #28474
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FOR SALE
A CTX-C Cell Master Rheinhard Version Charger/Discharger, the charger has only been used four times and is in great condition, it has just been sitting around at my house for months. There are no scratches on the charger. I am asking 75.00 shipped. If you have any questions or would like pictures please email me at Jon@vgsportsinc.com. I will only ship to the lower 48 states and I only accept Paypal.

Thanks
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Old 04-17-2008, 07:58 PM   #28475
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Default Diff ball holes on the Kimbrough spurs . . .

Diff ball holes on the Kimbrough spurs . . .

I was wondering if anyone runs extra diff balls in the spur, like some extra on the inner ring of holes to sort of distribute the load more evenly?

Thoughts?
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Old 04-17-2008, 08:28 PM   #28476
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Thumbs up I must give a shout out to Ray & Julie of Niftech . . .

I must give a big shout out to Ray & Julie of Niftech . . .

I got my order today as promised, COD but oh well . . .

I ordered the toe tool, some caps, some bronze pivot balls and the pivot ball tool. Beautiful stuff, good documentation. They even threw in a free gift, a tub of diff grease, happily suprised. I always love local newspaper packaging, I really get a kick out of it. Niftech's paper had plenty of hand written markups highlighting relevant news from the Cleveland paper "The Plain Dealer".

What I didn't expect was plenty of hand written thanks and words of encouragement. They appear to be a real Mom & Pop shop and go out of their way to exceed the customer's expectations.

They also included some Niftech stickers and two printed copies of the current catalog.

In this day and age of slick ssl PayPal shopping carts it's kind of refreshing and more personal to deal in this fashion. The post office may be thrown for a bit of a loop in the heart of Silicon Valley but it's entertaining to witness them scurry around for procedural documents that haven't been used recently.

So in closing I must give Niftech two thumbs up for providing outstanding customer support using what some may consider antiquated channels. This maybe so but there is really no substitute for the human touch.

Thank You Ray & Julie,

To quote the Governor of the great state of California, (Arnold) . . .

"I'll be back . . ."

woot . . .
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Old 04-19-2008, 09:45 PM   #28477
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I guess I shouldn't say anything at all . . .

If I can't say anything nice . . .

Last edited by boscoj; 04-19-2008 at 10:57 PM.
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Old 04-19-2008, 10:51 PM   #28478
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boscoj View Post
Gank all the threads from this forum and be done with it.

This is such a cluster.
WTF???!!!
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Last edited by Scottrik; 04-19-2008 at 11:31 PM.
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Old 04-19-2008, 10:54 PM   #28479
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I made a not so nice comment about the "forum", thought better and came back to delete it but couldn't so I just edited it . . .

Sorry . . . this is in no way in context to my Niftech thread.

Another reason why the configuration of this board sucks.

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WTF???!!!
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Old 04-20-2008, 05:57 PM   #28480
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Hey gang,
I am considering cutting some upper and lower rear pod plates to be able to move a brushless motor over the 3.5mm needed to weight balance the rear pod correctly. With todays "large wheel" tires on the market, the off sets that they have, it would seem that we could take advantage and move the motor plate over. The disadvantage would be that you will only be able to run wheels that have a 2.75mm off set or greater such as Parma & Jaco. The CRC's have a 1.4mm off set which is not enough to correctly get 86mm to center (half of 172mm for max width). Another disadvantage would be you would not be able to narrow up the rear track width if you use it for tuning. I have made up a set of custom rear pod plates and a shortened right diff hub and have run it in the past. It works as expected and the left rear tire wear matched the right. Diff hubs are not easy to make at my end, but IRS and CRC spit them out all day long. So what do you guys think about this? Painted into a corner with limited tire manufacture selection? Or very cool, why didn't we do this sooner?

Brian
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Old 04-20-2008, 06:27 PM   #28481
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Brian,you got a PM bro on this subject.
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Old 04-20-2008, 07:22 PM   #28482
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You know me Brian...I'll buy pretty much any product that claims to solve pretty much any problem. Let me know when they're ready. :
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Old 04-20-2008, 07:55 PM   #28483
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Originally Posted by Slapmaster6000 View Post
Hey gang,
I am considering cutting some upper and lower rear pod plates to be able to move a brushless motor over the 3.5mm needed to weight balance the rear pod correctly. With todays "large wheel" tires on the market, the off sets that they have, it would seem that we could take advantage and move the motor plate over. The disadvantage would be that you will only be able to run wheels that have a 2.75mm off set or greater such as Parma & Jaco. The CRC's have a 1.4mm off set which is not enough to correctly get 86mm to center (half of 172mm for max width). Another disadvantage would be you would not be able to narrow up the rear track width if you use it for tuning. I have made up a set of custom rear pod plates and a shortened right diff hub and have run it in the past. It works as expected and the left rear tire wear matched the right. Diff hubs are not easy to make at my end, but IRS and CRC spit them out all day long. So what do you guys think about this? Painted into a corner with limited tire manufacture selection? Or very cool, why didn't we do this sooner?

Brian
LRP now make a thin front plate for the motor that shifts it 1.5mm to the right (looking from the rear of the car) and it gives you all the centring and room that you need in the pod. This is being driven from the TC end to get the weight more inboard, so I guess we will see it on lots of motors some time soon. Don't think that, after a lot of work, you will find a market, Brain, as the problem is being alleviated by the motor guys. HTH
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Old 04-20-2008, 08:38 PM   #28484
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It takes almost 4mm to center the weight in the 1/12th motor pod.

Brian,
We've done some work on this and I think it will prove to be the right thing to do. There are those who don't think it is necessary, but in addition to the tire wear issue you mentioned we think the car feels better balanced on the track with a balanced motor pod. That being said, a car with an unbalanced pod doesn't exactly feel bad. But you have to ask, if you were designing a new 1/12th car from the ground up with the plan that it would only run brushless motors, would you center the weight of the motor or not? It makes sense to me that you would center it, just as it is basically centered with brushed motors in the current pods.

I've found that with Parma wheels you can easily center the weight in the pod and get the axle centered at full width, as long as we use a right side hub that has 1mm removed from the wheel flange (a lot easier to do than making a hub LOL) A better solution would be to have a narrower right hub, say 3mm narrower. CRC now makes one that they place in their brushless motor conversion kit for the GenX that is just that. That gives you room to adjust track width for tuning

As for the marketability aspect of such a product, I wouldn't take a guess, as I have proven numerous times that I am a poor judge of that
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Old 04-20-2008, 10:04 PM   #28485
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Default New to 1/12 Scale Questions

I have a couple of questions for a newbie to this scale

I'm getting a CRC Gen-X, I would like to run Lipo and Brushless
  • What suggestions can I get for an ESC, combo
  • Lipo size, given it would be replacing the 4 cell, any special considerations
  • Best motor size for new to this scale person running on carpet
Many Thanks in advance for the help
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