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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 03-27-2008, 08:08 PM   #28426
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I just went to their site and under build option you can select saddle pack or side by side.
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Old 03-27-2008, 08:22 PM   #28427
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Ohhh . . . I get it now . . . you build the configuration . . . duh . . .

So is this the best bet for built packs?

A 1/10th scale TC guy at the track sold me a 6 cell pack that he said had a dead cell. $30, good deal cuz my shop sells me the Promatch 4 cell saddle for about $42.

So I'm looking at the 6 cell pack and have seen the solder joints on the two 4 cell packs I got from the track/lhs and the penetration/heat looked a bit sketchy. So I decide to give the 6 cell pack with the dead cell a good twist in my hands. Sure as Shine-Ola one of the battery bars adjacent to the "dead cell" breaks free. Classic cold weld. From the factory.

No prob for me cuz I just got 5 cells for $30 but it does have me looking for single cells and other vendors . . .

I just picked up a Comp Elec Turbo Matcher 4/35 and a Xipp Zapper on fleaBay, I think I want to go with some matched single cells . . .


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I just went to their site and under build option you can select saddle pack or side by side.
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Old 03-27-2008, 09:07 PM   #28428
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Well there was a great setup station for pan cars both 1/10th and 1/12th. It was the Holeshot setup board. It works similar to today's TC setup boards but takes up a lot less space. It's just wide enough to sit the front end of a 1/10th pan car on top of it and only about 4 inches long. It is easy and very fast to use. I still see it listed on their website but I don't think it is produced any longer. After all these years I'm glad I never lost mine.

That KSG one looks interesting...how does it attach to the front axles?
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Old 03-28-2008, 07:42 PM   #28429
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bs6ef View Post
hey CFR

check the EB battery list on the brca website that will give you the list of new batteries that can be run for the 08/09 season, you dont want to get yourself caught out by buying the wrong batteries..

Steve
Steve

looked @ the BRCA list but that won't tell us which batteries are in favour for 12th in the USA
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Old 04-01-2008, 11:14 AM   #28430
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Default Thanks for the help guys . . .

I finally decided to take apart my front end, nothing broken but someone suggested that my kingpins could be bent. Sure enough both were. Going to swap the front end from the backup car and head to Lunsford for some more kingpins . . .

Thanks again . . .
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Old 04-01-2008, 02:43 PM   #28431
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just dont have time to race 1/12 anymore so it has to go

1/12 CRC carpet knife 3.2R in as new condition ,set up using Mark Payne's set up tips
heaps of crc and other brand spares
2x Parma HD bodies new (painted)
1x standard Parma body (painted)
extra set of speedmind 32 rears and 35 fronts
3x sets of used tyres (still heaps of foam left)
Keyence EXSTRAIGHT esc (no motor limit)
Futaba S9602 high speed servo
Receiver pack lipo and regulator
Futaba 40 mhz PCM receiver
1x Epic flatwire 8x2 (new)
all the usual hop ups , thrust bearing , ceramic diff balls ,diff covers, etc
complete spare shock
spring sets
red alloy screw set
crc alloy castor blocks
3x shim set packs
2x GP 4600 feral matched packs (takes full numbers)
1x GP 4300 feral matched H-MPV pack( takes full numbers)
car and all spares are new or as new,car is ready to race (less transmitter)

firm $ 550 inc postage
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Old 04-02-2008, 12:12 AM   #28432
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Talking

Can someone please help me out. I want to know what pinion and spur to run using a 12L4 with a novak 17.5 and box stock jaco prisms. I have been wrenching on this car like a madman. This is the last little bit I need to be able to finally run 1/12th scale. Please Please Please someone help me. Thanks a bunch in advance to anyone who can help.

Peace Aaron(W-W)
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Old 04-02-2008, 12:49 AM   #28433
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78 spur/45-46 pinion or 76 spur/44-45 pinion will get you right around the range you want to be. That should work with the 12L4, my concern is that as your tires wear down and you need to gear up you're going to run out of room for a bigger pinion. Once your tires wear down to 42mm you'll need a 52 tooth pinion to get around the same rollout. Hopefully someone will chime in with what the biggest pinion they can fit with a 76/78 spur on a 12L4 with lowered pod plates.
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Old 04-02-2008, 01:33 AM   #28434
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ike View Post
78 spur/45-46 pinion or 76 spur/44-45 pinion will get you right around the range you want to be. That should work with the 12L4, my concern is that as your tires wear down and you need to gear up you're going to run out of room for a bigger pinion. Once your tires wear down to 42mm you'll need a 52 tooth pinion to get around the same rollout. Hopefully someone will chime in with what the biggest pinion they can fit with a 76/78 spur on a 12L4 with lowered pod plates.
Thanks alot, I really appreciated the help tonight. This is a very new avenue for me and it is like a new language.

Peace Aaron(W-W)
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Old 04-04-2008, 11:55 AM   #28435
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i was wondering if anybody else has noticed that some of the associated t-bars for the L4 are cut crooked, and if you have noticed a change in the handling because of it, on my FF07 i have noticed that it makes the car uneven when turning corners, and i cant figure out anything else that would cause this problem. just wondering if anyone else i having this problem.
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Old 04-04-2008, 09:38 PM   #28436
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just had a.75 one in the old packaging that went right in the trash.
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Old 04-04-2008, 11:42 PM   #28437
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grossinator View Post
i was wondering if anybody else has noticed that some of the associated t-bars for the L4 are cut crooked, and if you have noticed a change in the handling because of it, on my FF07 i have noticed that it makes the car uneven when turning corners, and i cant figure out anything else that would cause this problem. just wondering if anyone else i having this problem.
I think I have heard of this before. It is a common machining problem. You might want to try a different companies T-Bars and see if they are any more precise. I know Associated out sources alot of their stuff to the Thunder Tiger plants now.
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Old 04-05-2008, 10:40 AM   #28438
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grossinator View Post
i was wondering if anybody else has noticed that some of the associated t-bars for the L4 are cut crooked, and if you have noticed a change in the handling because of it, on my FF07 i have noticed that it makes the car uneven when turning corners, and i cant figure out anything else that would cause this problem. just wondering if anyone else i having this problem.
Thats not that big of a deal. The weave would have to be off by a lot to notice a diffrence.

A biggest problem is thickness variation. I have gotten .063" t-bars that were .060" to .070" and .075" t-bars that were from .070" to .080".

This was before AE was bought by TT.
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Old 04-05-2008, 07:07 PM   #28439
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Unhappy Weird problem after first run today . . .

Weird problem after first run today . . .

Been messing with the speed control options recently, Tekin FXR, playing with drag brake and anti-push. I go out for my first run and the car is great, I jacked up the throttle end points to max like it said in the manual.

So then I hit the rail pretty good and the motor stops, still steers but no motor. The battery had come loose from the tape. I put it back and try again . . . nothing. I switch the servo channels and I can operate the steering with the throttle. I figured I must have smoked the esc or the motor.

I had a new LRP Sphere I was saving for "the pretty car" so I wired that up. No dice. Same symptom. Took the motor out and put it on the ICE charger, works fine. Get home, hookup the black can motor to the car, nothing. Run it on the charger, fine.

I went and set the throttle endpoints back and reset the esc, nothing.

Must be something pretty simple I'm thinking now . . .

Pretty Well Stumped
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Old 04-07-2008, 10:49 AM   #28440
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Default Wierd

Did you check your battery connectors? Might have loosened one when you became one with the wall.
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