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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 03-26-2008, 07:46 PM   #28411
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boscoj View Post
So how does this work? You measure toe on one side then install the rear part on the other side? Is there a manual somewhere?

If I could just "square up" the front end relative to the rear I could figure it out . . .
its easy. Install the bars on the front axles, with the measuring rod in one end of one block. Make sure the front "wheels" are facing straight ahead (you can turn the car on) Set the length of the rod so the end just touches the other bar in the front of the car. Pivot the bar with the rod in it to the rear and see if the rod has a gap or is touching the other bar. If it has a gap, the front wheels are toed in; if it is too long, they are toed out

I used to use the Niftech tool, but I have found it to be quicker to use a 12" caliper and just measure the track at the front and at the rear of the front wheels. Wider in back means toed in, wider in front means toed out.
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Old 03-26-2008, 08:27 PM   #28412
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I've heard this 12" caliper thing . . .

I guess I'm going to have to try the Niftech tool and come up with something that allows me to square up the car. I can't align a car if I don't know how long my tie rods are . . .

Thanks . . .

Quote:
Originally Posted by odpurple View Post
its easy. Install the bars on the front axles, with the measuring rod in one end of one block. Make sure the front "wheels" are facing straight ahead (you can turn the car on) Set the length of the rod so the end just touches the other bar in the front of the car. Pivot the bar with the rod in it to the rear and see if the rod has a gap or is touching the other bar. If it has a gap, the front wheels are toed in; if it is too long, they are toed out

I used to use the Niftech tool, but I have found it to be quicker to use a 12" caliper and just measure the track at the front and at the rear of the front wheels. Wider in back means toed in, wider in front means toed out.
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Old 03-26-2008, 08:31 PM   #28413
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Default I NEED Springs . . .

What's up with Tower Hobbies? They list 10/12th scale springs as the same part. I know for a fact the 1/10th scale .018 springs are 2mm taller . . .

Where do I buy ASC parts?

Last edited by boscoj; 03-26-2008 at 08:49 PM.
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Old 03-26-2008, 09:30 PM   #28414
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In reading the past post, to check for toe in / out, I have used a Unity Tweak station for years. It lets you center the car and check the width from side to side, as well as toe in / out camber and then tweek to boot. Plus it will do 1/12, 1/10 and 1/8 cars. Not cheap at $150, but it's all you need.

My 2 cents.
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Old 03-26-2008, 09:52 PM   #28415
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Grenade – Good to see you made it home OK. Have you recovered from your RC trek through regional’s and then Nationals? 10 glorious days of 1/12 scale racing! What a dream come true! I used up both of the motors that I had teched for the nationals. I went to true them up and found that the comms were too smal. We’re looking forward with racing with you again! Hurry back to the Plex! Oh, and you can bring the rest of the gang also.

djb
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Old 03-26-2008, 10:13 PM   #28416
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I have to say X 5 for the Niftech tool.

The Unity is a VERY nice piece of kit, but it's three biggest drawbacks are:

1) PITA to assemble/disassemble at race venue

2) Takes up a LOT of bench space once assembled

3) Price ($160 vs. $25)

I LOVE my Unity station as much as anything because I'm a tool whore. The fact is I never use it because it doesn't do anything my $25 Niftech gauge doesn't do equally as well. The Niftech even measures for center as well. The Unity is more intuitive if you've never used the Niftech, but once you figure out how the Niftech works it's faster (MUCH faster counting assembly/disassembly time for the Unity) and you can buy a LOT of cool stuff for the price difference.

In fairness, the Niftech will check camber as well as toe, but I've found it faster to use my $10 RPM plastic camber gauge, so I guess my Niftech/RPM alignment kit is $35 total...
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Old 03-26-2008, 10:23 PM   #28417
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So, why is there no 12th scale setup station like TC's have? If I can some how get the 12th to use my TC setup station that would be a dream
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Old 03-26-2008, 10:28 PM   #28418
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http://www.lefthander-rc.com/catalog...oducts_id=1248

It's made for 10th scale oval cars, but you could probably get it to work for 12th scale if you shim up the back of the car to make the chassis level.
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Old 03-26-2008, 10:30 PM   #28419
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Originally Posted by FOXY923 View Post
So, why is there no 12th scale setup station like TC's have? If I can some how get the 12th to use my TC setup station that would be a dream
Because it isn't necessary. Everything you need to set on these can be easily and efficiently measured with the Niftech tool (two precision-scribed bars of aluminum and a stick), a ride height gauge, and a 12" caliper to measure oa width.

And it wouldn't be a dream, it would be a NIGHTMARE. The only thing that takes more time and space than my Unity station is my Hudy AiO station. Like the Unity the Hudy is a BEAUTIFUL tool, but expensive (understandably so) and WAY over-complicated for 1/12. And another reason I HATE touring cars...
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Old 03-26-2008, 10:40 PM   #28420
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Gotta agree on that point, overcomplicating setups take the fun out of trackday
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Old 03-27-2008, 04:10 AM   #28421
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Originally Posted by boscoj View Post
What's up with Tower Hobbies? They list 10/12th scale springs as the same part. I know for a fact the 1/10th scale .018 springs are 2mm taller . . .

Where do I buy ASC parts?

You can get them from our online store.
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Old 03-27-2008, 06:09 AM   #28422
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Originally Posted by Scottrik View Post
Because it isn't necessary. Everything you need to set on these can be easily and efficiently measured with the Niftech tool (two precision-scribed bars of aluminum and a stick), a ride height gauge, and a 12" caliper to measure oa width.

And it wouldn't be a dream, it would be a NIGHTMARE. The only thing that takes more time and space than my Unity station is my Hudy AiO station. Like the Unity the Hudy is a BEAUTIFUL tool, but expensive (understandably so) and WAY over-complicated for 1/12. And another reason I HATE touring cars...
yes, there isnt much point to get too complex of a setup station, because you will only be adjusting very few things, camber, caster, toe, and that kind of stuff, which is fairly simple with a regular simple station, rather than something like that of Hudy
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Old 03-27-2008, 07:04 AM   #28423
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Originally Posted by B&B Racing View Post
Grenade – Good to see you made it home OK. Have you recovered from your RC trek through regional’s and then Nationals? 10 glorious days of 1/12 scale racing! What a dream come true! I used up both of the motors that I had teched for the nationals. I went to true them up and found that the comms were too smal. We’re looking forward with racing with you again! Hurry back to the Plex! Oh, and you can bring the rest of the gang also.

djb
Yes I had a great time at all the races, made a lot of new RC friends. I'll be back at the plex for the fall race and yes we should have other Colorado racers, just not sure 24 of them will make the trek as they did for Nationals.

Hey is my pit space still there? "Sonic Grenade" Out
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Old 03-27-2008, 07:06 AM   #28424
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I'd agree on the set up station for 1/12 scale. I sold a touring car station that I got with a nitro 1/10 scale after trying to set it up a few times. The Unity was faster and more accurate.

I've never tried the Niftech, but I'm like Scottrick in that I like cool tools. So maybe I'll give one a try.
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Old 03-27-2008, 07:42 PM   #28425
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Default 4 cell saddle packs . . .

4 cell saddle packs . . .

Are you guys making your own? I bought a couple pre-made from the lhs but now they say they're having a problem with the vendor. It was a 4600 mah EnerG saddle from Promatch. Don't see it on their site . . .
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