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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 03-25-2008, 06:20 AM   #28396
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OK, our 12th National seasons over in the UK. Looking to get new cells for the 08/09 series.

Which ones are cutting the mustard for 19T & Brushless over the pond?
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Old 03-25-2008, 07:59 AM   #28397
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hey CFR

check the EB battery list on the brca website that will give you the list of new batteries that can be run for the 08/09 season, you dont want to get yourself caught out by buying the wrong batteries..

Steve
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Old 03-25-2008, 03:25 PM   #28398
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quick question what is the best way to set your toe on your twelth scale?
what stations are popular to do this?
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Old 03-25-2008, 05:47 PM   #28399
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i know this is not a for sale thread, but it is my target market.

i have 2 speed merchant rev5's one assembled, run two weekes plus nats, and one brand new in the box, unassembled.

i would like to sell them as a package, looking for $525, but i will seperate them if wanted.

if you have any intrest please to not clutter this thread, pm me, or give me a call. 303.564.6677. or email mariolaptop@comcast.net. i would assume that i will also be geting hate mail for posting this, and that is fine to.

there are nothing wrong with the cars, in fact, the rev 5 is the best 1/12 car i have driven. but with our local track closing, and only being able to run on the carpet 10 times a year, it is too hard for me to keep up.
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Old 03-25-2008, 06:19 PM   #28400
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Quote:
Originally Posted by racing_jason View Post
quick question what is the best way to set your toe on your twelth scale?
what stations are popular to do this?
I use the Niftech tool. You can have a perfect eye and you won't be as precise as this. I love it. Makes the car handle alot better and faster. http://www.niftech.com/catalog/index...ode=3000series (It is the first tool on the page.)
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Old 03-25-2008, 09:35 PM   #28401
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thank you its much apriciated!
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Old 03-25-2008, 09:44 PM   #28402
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RCSteve93 View Post
I use the Niftech tool. You can have a perfect eye and you won't be as precise as this. I love it. Makes the car handle alot better and faster. http://www.niftech.com/catalog/index...ode=3000series (It is the first tool on the page.)
Sweet, that's exactly what I've been looking for. Thanks
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Old 03-25-2008, 10:09 PM   #28403
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could someone post a link for the 12th scale bible, I used to have it but lost it when my computer crashed.
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Old 03-26-2008, 09:58 AM   #28404
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Originally Posted by scoobydo View Post
Mark Paynes Site?
or is there another bible?
cause thats the only one I use!
http://www.markpayneblog.blogspot.com/
found it for anyone else looking
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Old 03-26-2008, 10:14 AM   #28405
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Originally Posted by roadrashracing View Post
could someone post a link for the 12th scale bible, I used to have it but lost it when my computer crashed.
There is also richardchang.com
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Old 03-26-2008, 06:33 PM   #28406
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Thumbs up Big Shout Out for RC4Less

Big Shout Out for RC4Less . . . I ordered some ceramic bearings for my RC12L4 on Friday night fully expecting not to hear anything until Monday. I paid with PayPal(USPS shipping) and got all the expected correspondance. Then on Saturday I got a real email from Bruce in response to feedback I left.

Got the bearings today in the mail.

Thanks RC4Less !
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Old 03-26-2008, 06:41 PM   #28407
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Thumbs up Another Big Shout Out for Lunsford . . .

Another Big Shout Out for Lunsford . . . went to get the axles after picco posted in reply to my query. I was looking for the Ti screw kit but couldn't find it. I left feedback asking about a kit for the RC12L4. I get a reply back the next morning saying yes we do, (I must have been a bit tipsy not to see it) and would you like me to add this onto your axle order?

Great service, I can't wait to get those parts. It's nice for the "left coasters" as well being located in Oregon.

Plus the website flat screams !!!

Thanks Lunsford !
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Old 03-26-2008, 07:05 PM   #28408
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Default Did I use axles for kingpins?

Is that possible? I would go check right now my my entire kit is in my trunk . . .
Viewing Mark Payne's blog got me to thinking, my axles are spinning in the hub and are too long while the kingpins seem to bind up a bit . . .

hmphhh . . .
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Old 03-26-2008, 07:12 PM   #28409
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So how does this work? You measure toe on one side then install the rear part on the other side? Is there a manual somewhere?

If I could just "square up" the front end relative to the rear I could figure it out . . .


Quote:
Originally Posted by RCSteve93 View Post
I use the Niftech tool. You can have a perfect eye and you won't be as precise as this. I love it. Makes the car handle alot better and faster. http://www.niftech.com/catalog/index...ode=3000series (It is the first tool on the page.)

Last edited by boscoj; 03-26-2008 at 07:15 PM. Reason: duh
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Old 03-26-2008, 07:19 PM   #28410
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all you 12th scale racers were haveing a trans am/ 12th scale race may 10 there will be a 27turn/17.5 class and 19 turn/10.5 . It will be in oshkosh,wi at hobbytown usa, please pm me if you are racing thx, lets have some fun before summer is here. i'll be running 10.5

HOBBYTOWN USA TRANS AM/12TH SCALE CLASSIC, MAY 10TH
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