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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 03-16-2008, 07:26 PM   #28351
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Default Measuring/Setting Toe, Recommended Settings

Noob (3 weeks) currently trying setups on a tight technical clockwise carpet course. The record on the current track configuration is 7.62. I'm futzing around in the low 9's. There are 10 turns, 7 are right and 3 are left.

I'm focusing to much on the course.

My real question is, how do you "square up" the front end relative to the rear? Is there a surefire way to center the steering "rack" and make sure your tie rods are the same length?

Then, what toe would you run? The only way I can get my car to turn in is with about -3 camber and what looks to be about 3mm total toe out?

I know I'm doing many things wrong but what say you?

tia

Last edited by boscoj; 03-16-2008 at 08:06 PM. Reason: speeling
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Old 03-16-2008, 07:29 PM   #28352
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Default It would be nice to have an actual 1/12 th forum instead of 1 thread

It would be nice to have an actual 1/12 th forum instead of 1 thread

Being that this board *is* the be all end all 1/12th scale pan car resource.

1/12th Scale On Road Forum.

Oh wait, this is vbull . . . sorry . . .


Last edited by boscoj; 03-16-2008 at 07:57 PM. Reason: Suggestion
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Old 03-16-2008, 08:49 PM   #28353
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boscoj View Post
Noob (3 weeks) currently trying setups on a tight technical clockwise carpet course. The record on the current track configuration is 7.62. I'm futzing around in the low 9's. There are 10 turns, 7 are right and 3 are left.

I'm focusing to much on the course.

My real question is, how do you "square up" the front end relative to the rear? Is there a surefire way to center the steering "rack" and make sure your tie rods are the same length?

Then, what toe would you run? The only way I can get my car to turn in is with about -3 camber and what looks to be about 3mm total toe out?

I know I'm doing many things wrong but what say you?

tia
Well if you are running a t-plate car you don't need to square up the rear to the front as the t-plate takes care of that. If you are running a link car with adjustable links then you have to worry about it. You'll need to measure both links and make sure they are the same length and that the suspension has no bind in it. It's best to use a digital caliper for that. For the front suspension there are a few different alignment tools to use to set your toe and camber. Personally I use the Holeshot one but it is hard to find. I can't remember what the others are called but I'm sure someone will pipe in here soon with that information. You want to run very little toe, how much is personal preference. If you are having problems getting the car to turn in you may need a different tire setup, a softer front tire or softer front spring will help increase front grip.
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Old 03-16-2008, 09:18 PM   #28354
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Default Hello

I am new here, just wanted to say hello. And what is up with the 900 and something pages in this thread er, um forum?
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Old 03-16-2008, 10:30 PM   #28355
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boscoj View Post
Noob (3 weeks) currently trying setups on a tight technical clockwise carpet course. The record on the current track configuration is 7.62. I'm futzing around in the low 9's. There are 10 turns, 7 are right and 3 are left.

I'm focusing to much on the course.

My real question is, how do you "square up" the front end relative to the rear? Is there a surefire way to center the steering "rack" and make sure your tie rods are the same length?

Then, what toe would you run? The only way I can get my car to turn in is with about -3 camber and what looks to be about 3mm total toe out?

I know I'm doing many things wrong but what say you?

tia
I am fairly new my self, but have found that the tires and the bodies make a difference on the way your car performs. Different bodies put downforce in different areas some get more rear traction others more front then some are neutral. Different compound tires also make a difference, I found the best for tires is just run what every one else runs.
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Old 03-17-2008, 05:07 PM   #28356
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boscoj View Post
Noob (3 weeks) currently trying setups on a tight technical clockwise carpet course. The record on the current track configuration is 7.62. I'm futzing around in the low 9's. There are 10 turns, 7 are right and 3 are left.

I'm focusing to much on the course.

My real question is, how do you "square up" the front end relative to the rear? Is there a surefire way to center the steering "rack" and make sure your tie rods are the same length?

Then, what toe would you run? The only way I can get my car to turn in is with about -3 camber and what looks to be about 3mm total toe out?

I know I'm doing many things wrong but what say you?

tia

Can you post a few pics of your car? Something sounds drasticlly wrong if you are running that much toe and camber.
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Old 03-17-2008, 05:16 PM   #28357
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I was given a whole bag of tires. The problem is, I beielve they are to small. I've been out of 12th scale for a while. With the tires I can only get 1mm of right height. The tires range from 1.64-1.67. The rear end is from an old l3. I have 3.5 spacers in the back. And the spur is an 86 tooth. Do I need to go with larger tires or do I need to do some grinding in the rear?

Last edited by roadrashracing; 12-24-2008 at 12:15 PM.
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Old 03-17-2008, 05:32 PM   #28358
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IRS has lowered pod plates that will allow you to run them down low.
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Old 03-17-2008, 05:39 PM   #28359
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I would prefer not to but new pods. I'm tring not to get this car to expensive.
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Old 03-17-2008, 05:42 PM   #28360
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Ok, If you have access to a milling machine you can cut them down. Otherwise you will need to run larger tires.
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Old 03-17-2008, 05:48 PM   #28361
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roadrashracing View Post
I would prefer not to but new pods. I'm tring not to get this car to expensive.
I have a set of silver CRC lowered pods that would fit that car that i'd be willing to sell you. PM me if interested.

-James
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Old 03-17-2008, 07:27 PM   #28362
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how would you gear a 10.5orion motor on a track with a 25metre straight and width of approx 15m ???

Many thanks
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Old 03-17-2008, 11:11 PM   #28363
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does anyone know the heights of them lowered pods?
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Old 03-18-2008, 09:14 AM   #28364
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Quote:
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Can you post a few pics of your car? Something sounds drasticlly wrong if you are running that much toe and camber.
I don't have any current pics, I did find a couple more things wrong with it last session. I had forgotten to install the 5 degree caster blocks as recommended. Didn't get a chance to test that. Also in my haste to make the car turn I picked up some .018 springs only to find out they are 10th scale springs and 2mm taller.

I'm gonna put the stock .020 springs in and give it a shot today. Got some CRC front suspension shims yesterday and am going to attempt to put my ride height to suggested spec, 4.5F/5R. Got the CRC rear pods and am running the .060 t-bar.

Also roadrash, I had to get the CRC rear pods to run the tires in your pic. I had an old set of tall tires and when I went to the new style I was about where you are. $20 iirc

Last edited by boscoj; 03-18-2008 at 09:34 AM.
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Old 03-18-2008, 02:06 PM   #28365
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I ended up getting larger tires, I tried some lower pods but still did not give to my liking. The chassis is 3mm thick vs 2mm on my other car. I'm not sure if that would make a difference.
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