R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

    Hide Wikipost
Old 10-28-2016, 12:43 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: 1/12 forum
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: fenton06
This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

Print Wikipost

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 03-13-2008, 03:10 AM   #28336
Tech Apprentice
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: UK
Posts: 92
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by MattW View Post
Believe me when i say that a few people have questioned some of the body thoughts/rules that we have over here. Basically, as has been said, we have 2 choices (yes there is a list, but when all said and done 2 decent shells) and that is the HB reynard and Parma Zytek. I think the majority runs the Parma. I still have a Parma Speed 8 - and have put it directly next to a Zytek, well, they are very similar - but one has a roof! but hey ho, it's what we have.

In fairness, it does make it easy for the racer. I haven't bought any other shell since Parma launched the Zytek!!
Just posted on a UK forum

BRCA Body shell approval

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

There has been a considerable amount of criticism from some people of the BRCA 1/12 bodyshell list, they seem to feel very aggrieved that the latest Speed 12 / 12B / 8 / 8HD Etc. are not approved for use in BRCA meetings.
I thought that I would clarify s few things in relation to this particular issue.

The first statement to make is that the Protoform Speed 12/12B have not been submitted for approval to the BRCA.

The relevant rules from the BRCA handbook are as follows

1.1 The essence of the sport of Radio-controlled car racing is competition between realistic models of racing automobiles. All cars must comply to dimensional requirements furnished in the outline drawings.

1.24 Only Group C/IMSA GTP/LeMans prototype body shells, all shells must be a reasonable representation of the full sized car as judged by the section committee

When a shell is submitted, we ask for photos of the full size car it is based on to be supplied with the shell by the Manufacturer or importer.
One of the committee then takes the shell and photos and ‘does the rounds’ of the 13 person committee and asks the question “Is this a reasonable representation of the full sized car?” this is taken directly from the rule book, the answer is a simple yes or no. The body is then approved or not on a simple majority.
The committee is made up of 13 people voted in at the EGM, they have all raced 1/12 at national level, 11 of them still race at all the national meetings, several of them are regular A finalists.

If a body is not approved, it is because these racers do not want it!

Interestingly, as chairman of the committee I only vote when there is a tie, I have never been called on to use my vote on any body approval, it has always been clear whether it was going to get approved or not.

I fail to believe there is a fairer way of approving bodyshells!

If the Speed 12 / 12B / 8 / 8HD shells are to be approved, then the rule No's 1.1 and 1.24 would need to be changed to remove the words ‘reasonable’ and ‘realistic’.
In my view this will leave the door wide open to slot car wedge type shells, there would be nothing in the rules to stop them. This would please the hardcore performance freaks, but the average racer would just walk away.

The situation in EFRA and IFMAR is slightly different, in each of these organisations shells are judged and approved by one person, usually the electric section chairman, this person may or may not have any understanding of 1/12. They should use similar criteria for approval as the BRCA, but that is entirely up to them!
__________________
Russ Giles
BRCA 1/12 Circuit Section Chairman
reynard55 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-13-2008, 12:11 PM   #28337
Tech Adept
 
tdu verney's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Del City Speed Shop
Posts: 216
Default

Change is good. And "racing" is all about change F-1 oh yea evan NASCAR
Just me talking Bro.
tdu verney is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-13-2008, 01:01 PM   #28338
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 573
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Default

what spur gear is everyone running in there 1/12th for 13.5 motors? and what is a decent starting point for a track thats roughly 75x36?
SPC Racer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-13-2008, 05:52 PM   #28339
Tech Fanatic
 
xtrememadness's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: new jersey
Posts: 954
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to xtrememadness
Default

hey guys. i want to try the old school front end on my bmi db12r can anyone give me a starting setup ie: how many washers up front for caster and how much caster does each washer give me and also if there is any caster already built into the blocks. im currently running 6 degrees of caster and 10 degree blocks on the dynamic front end. thanx
__________________
CRAIG SANTRY / TAMIYA / TEAM ASSOCIATED / BROWNIES PRO AND SPORT HOBBIES / STATEN ISLAND SPEED TEAM / FUTABA / LRP / TEKIN / PROTOFORM / JACKSON RC / HORSHAM RC / EXOTEK RACING / REEDY
xtrememadness is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-14-2008, 05:58 AM   #28340
Tech Elite
 
Trips's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: 360 Speedway
Posts: 2,251
Trader Rating: 16 (100%+)
Default

Craig,

For caster on the old skool front end, I'd start with one Associated thick aluminum washer at the front of the block or two thin Speedmerchant steel washers. I don't know how much caster this gives exactly, but it always worked out well on my cars with the old skool setup. If you want more caster, go with one thick Asso washer and one thin Speedmerchant. Any more caster than that and you're looking at traction rolls mid-corner to start happening.

There's no caster machined into the block itself. I've run with no caster with the old skool front end, but it makes the car very edgy at corner entry with push mid corner to exit.
__________________
MARSHAL!!
Trips is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-14-2008, 04:45 PM   #28341
Tech Fanatic
 
xtrememadness's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: new jersey
Posts: 954
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to xtrememadness
Default

thanx dave i should of just asked you in the first place
__________________
CRAIG SANTRY / TAMIYA / TEAM ASSOCIATED / BROWNIES PRO AND SPORT HOBBIES / STATEN ISLAND SPEED TEAM / FUTABA / LRP / TEKIN / PROTOFORM / JACKSON RC / HORSHAM RC / EXOTEK RACING / REEDY
xtrememadness is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-14-2008, 09:02 PM   #28342
Tech Apprentice
 
Cunningham1972's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: El Cajon CA
Posts: 85
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by hanulec View Post
i just wish we could get some Lemans LMP1:
http://www.americanlemans.com/driver...spx?CARCLASS=4
http://www.lemans.org/24heuresdumans...ccueil_gb.html

LMP2: http://www.americanlemans.com/driver...spx?CARCLASS=3

or Grand Am: http://www.grand-am.com/rolex/multimedia/photos.cfm

bodies. Having IMSA and Group-C bodies in the early 90's is what got me interested in R/C racing.


Not LMP P1 Bodies But Wind Tunnel R/C Has a Nice 1/12 scale 962 body!

I run them in a class called 962 stock
http://www.windtunnelracingproducts.com/

C.C.
Cunningham1972 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-14-2008, 10:04 PM   #28343
Tech Champion
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Hawaii, USA
Posts: 7,157
Default

Not sure I'd call it a "nice" 962 body...but it is a 962 and that's a plus.

I can't remember any of the older 1/12th 962s that really looked good. Maybe the Frewer which was a modifed back pour of the Tamiya. It comes out a bit strange though because the Tamiya was made for taller wheels and tires...so it comes out looking kinda funny with today's 1/12th wheels and tires. Andy's had the best looking 962/956 ever but it was a 1/10th pan car body. PTI has a good looking 1/18th 962 and a 1/8th version but no 1/12th.
InspGadgt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-16-2008, 01:34 AM   #28344
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: KIAMA NSW.
Posts: 39
Default

hi guys just getting in to 1/12th scale just wondering dose any one have set up notes for 1/12th scales like hudy set up books for touring cars this may have been covered before
thanks
Mick333 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-16-2008, 01:50 AM   #28345
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 1,876
Trader Rating: 80 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to cpatel529 Send a message via Yahoo to cpatel529
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mick333 View Post
hi guys just getting in to 1/12th scale just wondering dose any one have set up notes for 1/12th scales like hudy set up books for touring cars this may have been covered before
thanks
+1 on the setup notes. I raced my Gen X for the first time today and loved it! Any setup notes woud be very beneficial.


Chirag
__________________
Chirag Patel (San Diego, CA)
cpatel529 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-16-2008, 02:23 AM   #28346
Tech Elite
 
Wicked-Wayz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Do you feel you're a star?
Posts: 2,033
Trader Rating: 19 (100%+)
Send a message via ICQ to Wicked-Wayz Send a message via AIM to Wicked-Wayz Send a message via MSN to Wicked-Wayz Send a message via Yahoo to Wicked-Wayz
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mick333 View Post
hi guys just getting in to 1/12th scale just wondering dose any one have set up notes for 1/12th scales like hudy set up books for touring cars this may have been covered before
thanks
Quote:
Originally Posted by cpatel529 View Post
+1 on the setup notes. I raced my Gen X for the first time today and loved it! Any setup notes woud be very beneficial.


Chirag
I am right with you on this ones guys. I am still trying to find some help of any kind.

Peace Aaron(W-W)
__________________
Schacht Design Works Trackside Hobbies Dirtheaven CRC Hobbies MidWest Tri-Clone RC Scoring Pro LiveRc.com 92 Zero Designs
Wicked-Wayz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-16-2008, 07:41 AM   #28347
Tech Addict
 
gregm's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Tampa, FL
Posts: 539
Trader Rating: 57 (100%+)
Send a message via MSN to gregm
Default

Check out

http://richardchang.com/hobby/rctips_112_summary.pdf
and
http://www.markpayneblog.blogspot.com/

I have found these to be exceptionally useful. Good luck guys.

Greg
gregm is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-16-2008, 07:56 AM   #28348
Tech Addict
 
beyondthepack's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Orillia, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 600
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Send a message via Yahoo to beyondthepack
Default

Hey guys just looking for some help. My car seems to lacking in speed lately. Its fantastic in the infeild but struggles on the straight. Heres my set up. 40mm in the rear (yellows) 40mm in the front DBL Pink. 36 Pinion, 100 Spur. Diff has been rebuild, motor (Trinity Monster) has been cut (27T), and I'm running SMC Orions 4200(New). I usually charge them at 6 amps. Any ideas would be great, Thanks.
__________________
AE B5R - SC10.2 - Outdoors
AE TC7.1 VTA - AE TC5 USGT -- Indoors
LRP - REEDY - FUTABA - IDEAL HOBBIES - RC404
beyondthepack is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-16-2008, 02:03 PM   #28349
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: KIAMA NSW.
Posts: 39
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by gregm View Post
Check out

http://richardchang.com/hobby/rctips_112_summary.pdf
and
http://www.markpayneblog.blogspot.com/

I have found these to be exceptionally useful. Good luck guys.

Greg
thankyou that is exackley what i was looking for
muchly apprechelated
Mick333 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-16-2008, 03:26 PM   #28350
Tech Addict
 
Ferrarimk13's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Staten Island, New York
Posts: 630
Send a message via AIM to Ferrarimk13
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by beyondthepack View Post
Hey guys just looking for some help. My car seems to lacking in speed lately. Its fantastic in the infeild but struggles on the straight. Heres my set up. 40mm in the rear (yellows) 40mm in the front DBL Pink. 36 Pinion, 100 Spur. Diff has been rebuild, motor (Trinity Monster) has been cut (27T), and I'm running SMC Orions 4200(New). I usually charge them at 6 amps. Any ideas would be great, Thanks.
so it just started recently? i would suppose its batteries at first, but since you said they are new, i guess not. Did you check your bearings lately?
__________________
Press Alt+F4 for a good time.
Ferrarimk13 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
New to the forum mig rod Electric Off-Road 1 01-05-2008 05:23 PM
hi i need help and im new to the forum racer4 Rookie Zone 4 01-21-2007 02:37 PM
Why is this forum listed under the On Road Forum? sport10 Onroad Nitro Engine Zone 0 01-11-2007 08:06 AM
Forum Changes... futureal Wisconsin & Illinois Racing 3 10-28-2002 09:26 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 2 (0 members and 2 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 07:48 AM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net

SEO by vBSEO 3.5.0