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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 04-22-2003, 06:53 PM   #2821
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odpurple- IMO i have found that the car makes the biggest difference as long as the driver is halway decent at the club racing level, before you get all up in arms let me explain:

99.99999% of people have no clue how to properly build or set up a car (and i am one of them in some cases, lol ), and thats why people look like they cant drive and do poorely. I have tried driving alot of people's cars at the track when they are struggling with it, and i am amazed that they can drive as fast as they do with it. Case and point: I set up a rev. 3 for my 14 year old sister (who had only driven a mini-z a few times and had just gotten the concept of how to drive a pistol radio down) and within a few race weekends she was beating people who had been racing for years. After only a few months of racing she finished in the top half of the B main at the 3rd leg of the triple crown this year (and there was a full C main so it wasnt like she was second to last overall). Yes, i coached her a little bit, but it really proved how a good car set up well can make all of the difference. was the about to TQ at cleveland? no, but she was faster than most club racers after only a few races, and all because her car was wicked easy to drive fast. sorry about the tanget, just wanted to share my $.02

Now for a tanget on bumpers, lol....

i run a small foam bumper that extends no further side to side than the width of the chassis (any more and in a crash it will rub against the tire and act like a brake on that single wheel, which is needless to say bad), however a small foam bumper protects the body from cracking around the wheel wells. however dont run a kydex bumper, or anything like that, you cant bounce off walls or glance them with it, you will completely stuff it, if the thing even toches the wall. i have yet to break a wheel or an arm even running mod when a kydex bumper would of helped. so just say no when you are tempted to run one.
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Old 04-23-2003, 02:34 AM   #2822
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hey guy's looking for some help so far have been running 1/12 at club meets and using 6 cell i am racing at an event this weekend and it's 4 cell can anyone give me some help what sort of motor winds what sort of apx. rolout i need, how to drive the car differently from 6 cell

thanks
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Old 04-23-2003, 11:33 AM   #2823
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Hey Storm-
I agree with everything you said, but you proved my point! You could have given your sister a properly set-up L3, Knife or other good 12th car and the results would probably have been the same. You are assuming that your sister is just a "halfway decent" driver, maybe she's a born talent!
Let us know when she starts beating you! lol!
O'D
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Old 04-23-2003, 01:39 PM   #2824
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hasnt happened yet, but i will be happy and proud when it does, means i must of being doing something right teaching her, lol. (btw i get it all the time at the track too, lol).
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Old 04-23-2003, 08:53 PM   #2825
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I still suck. I was at Calandra Raceway a couple of weeks ago, and one of them (I think Mark) drove my carpet knife. He asked if he could, and I said "Sure" He "flew" my car around the track like I have never seen that car go with unbelievable control. He said it was set up verry well, but I had to let the sauce soak for a full 30 minutes before I ran the car on the track........That was all except a few comments about my remote. I AM driving a properly set up car. I crash a lot, but am getting better. I love to practice and that is what improves my driving the most.

One more comment. I took up 12th to improve my driving and fill in the winter season. I am not an oval dude. This week I got out my EB4 (1/8 off road gas) and was looking for more steering and control just running it in the back yard.

I am hooked on 1/12!!

David Root
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Old 04-24-2003, 11:21 AM   #2826
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Default 4 cell winds etc.

The track you are running on has a lot to do with what wind you should run for 4 cell. As a rule of thumb, with fewer cells, you run hotter winds than you would with 6cell. At our local carpet track, most people run 10 or 11 turn motors, I've seen results from big races where the pros used 8 turns. In my opinion, most guys over-motor thier car, which makes it hard to drive. For myself, I usually run a 12 turn double or quad, geared 25/98 with 48mm tires and I don't get pulled by many on the straight.
O'D
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Old 04-24-2003, 03:15 PM   #2827
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odpurple - the straight is not the idea for the big winds. The big winds get you through the windy stuff faster. I think this is indication that driving style must be addressed to get really fast.
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Old 04-24-2003, 11:53 PM   #2828
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My point was that too much motor means overdriving the corners, which is not the fast way through them. I learned a long time ago to set my car up for me and my ability and not what I read in the magazine from some pro.
O'D
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Old 04-25-2003, 06:05 AM   #2829
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odpurple - do you want to improve or stay status-quo?
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Old 04-25-2003, 06:07 AM   #2830
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Quote:
Originally posted by davidl
odpurple - the straight is not the idea for the big winds. The big winds get you through the windy stuff faster. I think this is indication that driving style must be addressed to get really fast.
Hey, David..

Kit here... Just inc case you didn't know.. I just bought a YRX-12WE 3 weeks ago. I love it. I ran 30 laps on the same Orion's layout ... Not quite 32 Laps like you and Mike D did

Perhaps next time you see me, you can take me to the 12th scale school
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Old 04-25-2003, 06:54 AM   #2831
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i think what odpurple is trying to say is that unless you can take advantage of a hotter wind, which somtimes get lost on unnecessary wheel spin, he'd rather stick to one he can control.

however, i have to agree with davidl that, one must always try to improve, and try those hotter winds, and take advantage the power that they have...
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Old 04-25-2003, 07:47 AM   #2832
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There are 2 reasons guys drop to a lower wind.....

1) runtime

2) you fearded o' da powa....LOL


And yes I meant to spell it that way...heheheh
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Old 04-25-2003, 11:39 AM   #2833
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Well, I don't have a problem with run time so I must be "afeared o d'powa"!

Here's my philosophy: When I can drive for 8 minutes without hitting anything, then I motor up.

When we first started running modified at the local track, I went with the same winds as everyone else and had a terrible time. I just couldn't handle the power. Plus that, I wasn't having any fun. So I built some motors that were a few turns less and was then able to get around the track without embarrassing myself. When I was comfortable with that I went up a turn to what I'm running now and have been competitive. I am now running 1 or 2 turns less than the fastest guys at the local track and beating lots of guys with more motor than I have.

So, should I have kept too much motor in my car and hoped that someday I would get better? Or was the best way to improve to make my car driveable so I could get the track time I needed to learn the track and lines?
My original statement was simply that some people put too much motor in thier car for thier own good.
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Old 04-25-2003, 12:46 PM   #2834
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odpurple - well, you didn't tell me that at first. I agree with your approach. Now, since you are beating guys with more motor, question if it is time to go up the next one. Would that be the same as the consitent winner at your track? If so, you can make the move and be conservative with it. Then when you get comfortable, dial a little more in and try to beat the big wheel. But I also suggest modifying your criteria a little. We all are hitting things. You will never progress from where you are at if you don't rub the boards a little. And don't let one major brain fade decide the issue of using more power or not. Use your comfort zone when you are consistently fast, but pushing yourself.
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Old 04-25-2003, 12:56 PM   #2835
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odpurple - I am going to add some more to this, and it actually applies to almost everyone. Analyze where you are loosing ground to the dude that wins all the time. That should tell you what to do next. If you are dumping, but running similar lap times to Mr. Fast, you need to change your motor, gear, batteries, brushes, timing and stuff like that. You may also need to free your car up to save batteries. If you are loosing ground off the corner in the tight sections, but have a good line and are pulling the throttle, you need more motor or more forward bite in the car. If you are getting smoked on the straight, you need more gear. Those are the kinds of questions you should use in the evaluation. That will guide you to the solution. Sort of an engineering approach, but it works. But there are 3 major things that can be analyzed to go faster. They are 1) the driver, 2) the car, and 3) the motor/batteries/gear. Good luck and don't smoke me too badly if we race some day.
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