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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 03-11-2008, 10:44 PM   #28321
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Originally Posted by Supervlieg View Post
Does anybody know a good internetstore where they still sell this item?

1/12 Front End Pro-Brace Blue

Calandra Racing Concepts

Part CLN4289
Not sure if they're in stock, but you can try www.teamCRC.com.
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Old 03-12-2008, 12:39 AM   #28322
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Actually the Zytec has a bit more downforce than a Speed 8, and a bit less than a Speed 8 HD. I may be mistaken, but I don't believe the Parma Speed 8, HD, or the Protoform Speed 12 and 12 B are legal under BRCA rules, so that may be the reason the Zytec is so popular in the UK.
Correct. None of the 'Speed' bodies are allowed for use in BRCA, or EFRA, competitions.
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Old 03-12-2008, 03:18 AM   #28323
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Hi guys, we are not allowed to race the Speed 8's ro 12's here in the UK so most people either use the Zytek or HB Raynard. I personally like the Protoform Speed 12 shell (see pics) and although not allowed in our Nationals, we can use them in our own winter series. I also liked the Protoform Speed 8 b'shell but they are not availible anymore. Cheers, Chris.
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Old 03-12-2008, 09:28 AM   #28324
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wow, very nice paintjob, why isnt the parma allowed?
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Old 03-12-2008, 11:26 AM   #28325
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wow, very nice paintjob, why isnt the parma allowed?
If I remember correctly the BRCA decided that they were not accurate representations of real race cars.
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Old 03-12-2008, 12:49 PM   #28326
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If I remember correctly the BRCA decided that they were not accurate representations of real race cars.
And the Zytec is???
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Old 03-12-2008, 02:57 PM   #28327
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You are correct, the BRCA decided that the Parma Zytek was a resonable representation of the real thing and it was allowed. I don't understand some of the time because some b'shells look nothing like what they are ment to be but get accepted yet others that are resonable get binned! I met the Munno family at a FSEARA race in Florida a couple of years ago and she sprayed the b'shells. She did a fantastic job and the b'shells look MUCH better in real life. Sorry that the pics are not bigger but the next size up is bigger than the size allowed as an attacthment on here.
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Old 03-12-2008, 04:41 PM   #28328
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Believe me when i say that a few people have questioned some of the body thoughts/rules that we have over here. Basically, as has been said, we have 2 choices (yes there is a list, but when all said and done 2 decent shells) and that is the HB reynard and Parma Zytek. I think the majority runs the Parma. I still have a Parma Speed 8 - and have put it directly next to a Zytek, well, they are very similar - but one has a roof! but hey ho, it's what we have.

In fairness, it does make it easy for the racer. I haven't bought any other shell since Parma launched the Zytek!!
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Old 03-12-2008, 04:56 PM   #28329
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I remember when the Speed 8 first came out, I looked at it and said it was a 1/12 slot car body. All we need now is the side dams. The Zytec is little more than a speed 8 with an open cockpit.

To be fair it is increasingly difficult to accurately portray today's race cars in lexan and get them to work. It's impossible to mold in the air tunnels that are commonplace on today's prototype cars. And the long low tail can never generate the downforce we need for our cars.
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Old 03-12-2008, 05:30 PM   #28330
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Tamiya does fine molding very complex bodies. The problem is people don't want the extra weight and the suspension setup of today's 1/12ths get in the way of an accurately molded body. Not to mention the dimensions of a 1/12th are hugely out of scale.
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Old 03-12-2008, 06:14 PM   #28331
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i just wish we could get some Lemans LMP1:
http://www.americanlemans.com/driver...spx?CARCLASS=4
http://www.lemans.org/24heuresdumans...ccueil_gb.html

LMP2: http://www.americanlemans.com/driver...spx?CARCLASS=3

or Grand Am: http://www.grand-am.com/rolex/multimedia/photos.cfm

bodies. Having IMSA and Group-C bodies in the early 90's is what got me interested in R/C racing.
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Old 03-12-2008, 09:01 PM   #28332
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A question regarding the front wheel on a 12th scale:

How does one know when to use flanged or unflanged bearings in the front wheels?

I bought a second hand 12L4 and the wheels that came with it have some side to side movement on the front axles. It's easy enough to shim it out, but should they have flanged bearings? I don't know what brand they are, they're a dish type wheel.

I also have some brand new Jacos and an idea of what type of bearing I'd need would be good.

I should add that the bearings in the front wheels are unflanged.
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Old 03-12-2008, 09:06 PM   #28333
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If the wheel has a lip on the inside that keeps the bearing from pushing all the way through then it can use unflanged. It can also use flanged but that will change the off-set of the rim.
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Old 03-12-2008, 09:18 PM   #28334
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The front wheels I got with the car have the ridge. the new ones I've bought are Jaco Prisms. I haven't had a real good look at them so I'm not sure if they have that ridge or not.
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Old 03-12-2008, 09:58 PM   #28335
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Quote:
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The front wheels I got with the car have the ridge. the new ones I've bought are Jaco Prisms. I haven't had a real good look at them so I'm not sure if they have that ridge or not.
Jaco Prism's need a flanged bearing as they do not have a flange on the inside.
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