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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 03-09-2008, 02:37 PM   #28306
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CREWMAN View Post
What is the proper way to check ride hieght on my irs rugrat. when i check the rear pod the front of the pod says 4.5 the middle says 4 and the back says 3. where should i read it from
Well, the pod should read the same at each point. The rear of your main chassis is too high, or the rear of the rear pod is too low. Ideally the readings at the front wheels, rear of main chassis/front of rear pod, and rear of rear pod should all be the same when race ready (batts and motor installed). Sometimes racers raise the rear ride height a little to help steering, but this is a tuning option.
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Old 03-09-2008, 02:46 PM   #28307
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Originally Posted by CREWMAN View Post
What is the proper way to check ride hieght on my irs rugrat. when i check the rear pod the front of the pod says 4.5 the middle says 4 and the back says 3. where should i read it from
You want to adjust your shock preload so all of the 4 corners of the pod are the same height. From there you adjust your rear ride height with the axle ride height adjusters.
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Old 03-09-2008, 04:10 PM   #28308
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Quote:
Originally Posted by protc3 View Post
You want to adjust your shock preload so all of the 4 corners of the pod are the same height. From there you adjust your rear ride height with the axle ride height adjusters.
I tryied and it still is different in all three spot.Could this mean that my tbar is twisted or maybe do i have to set the tweak first?
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Old 03-09-2008, 04:20 PM   #28309
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Your center shock may be too long. Take your shock off and check it again. If the front of the pod now sits lower than the rear of the pod, you need to cut the ballcups on the shock to make them a little shorter so the overall shock lenght is shorter. Let me know how it goes
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Old 03-09-2008, 04:44 PM   #28310
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Got it Thanks for the help
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Old 03-09-2008, 05:16 PM   #28311
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Old 03-09-2008, 08:41 PM   #28312
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Jason way to go simple solution, good information.
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Old 03-10-2008, 12:52 AM   #28313
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Make sure your tires are true when setting up though. If not you could have different heights on the pod left to right.
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Old 03-10-2008, 08:19 PM   #28314
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Default Determining Unknown Motor Spec?

I have this old (5-10 year old) "Reedy Nova" motor. Can't find any info on it. Some guys at the local track say it's a 27T, one says it's a 19T. I'm pretty sure I spent the money for a mod motor but just can't remember. It's a black can with a pink Reedy Nova sticker on it. I don't know but it doesn't look serviceable . . .

Can I determine anything with a multimeter?

Anyone know what the spec of this motor is?

This is the best pic I have of it . . .

tia
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Old 03-10-2008, 08:28 PM   #28315
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tdu verney View Post
Jason way to go simple solution, good information.
The most simple problems are usually the most difficult to figure out. Im glad i was able to help.
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Old 03-10-2008, 08:37 PM   #28316
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Default Found this sweet Sanyo "eneloop" NiMH pack @ Costco

Being a noob I have a frustating Futaba 2PL radio that eats batteries, so I was in Costco buying some "Dust Off" for me and the guys at the track and I saw this Sanyo "eneloop" rechargeable battery kit. 8 AA NiMH 1900 mah batts (just what the 2PL requires) and 4 AAA 750 mah batts (my Harmony remote) with a nice case (which will become my new 4 cell battery case) a charger and some adapters to make the AA's fit c and d cell applications. $25 bucks so I said what the hell.

It's pretty sweet . . .




Last edited by boscoj; 03-10-2008 at 08:52 PM.
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Old 03-11-2008, 09:31 AM   #28317
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Hi guys, I just wanted to let you know that our UK SW Winter Series finished on Sunday and as far as 1/12ths were concerned, it could not of been closer! Going into this final round, I had a 2 point lead over my main rival (that happens to be one of the best in the country!) so all was to play for. I had a real bad time during qualifying and managed to get 3rd and the other guy got pole. This put us level going into the final and whoever finished in front of the other, regardless of where that was (4th and 5th, 7th and 8th, etc), they would be the 2007/08 champion. I got a good start and managed to get 2nd position quite quickly. I was trying to keep up with the fast guy but when he stepped it up a gear, I could n't respond. So it finished with Robin the winner and me 2nd. After 6 months of racing, it came down to 1 point between 1st and 2nd, it does n't get any closer than that! A really good ending to what has been a great winter season.

A big thanks goes out to Fred and the rest of the Plymouth crew that helped with the setting up and running of the meetings.

Attached are a couple of pics from the last meeting, roll on October when it all starts up again!!

Thanks guys.

Chris.
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Old 03-11-2008, 03:30 PM   #28318
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Does anybody know a good internetstore where they still sell this item?

1/12 Front End Pro-Brace Blue

Calandra Racing Concepts

Part CLN4289
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Old 03-11-2008, 05:43 PM   #28319
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Hey Wingman2

I really like the looks of the Zytec and I enjoy running it. However, I beleive the Speed 8 and or Speed 12 offer more grip?
I'm certain you have tested all three bodies. Are you guys using more mechanical grip to make the Zytec work? I'm asuming this is a Parma Zytec?
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Old 03-11-2008, 10:42 PM   #28320
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tdu verney View Post
Hey Wingman2

I really like the looks of the Zytec and I enjoy running it. However, I beleive the Speed 8 and or Speed 12 offer more grip?
I'm certain you have tested all three bodies. Are you guys using more mechanical grip to make the Zytec work? I'm asuming this is a Parma Zytec?
Actually the Zytec has a bit more downforce than a Speed 8, and a bit less than a Speed 8 HD. I may be mistaken, but I don't believe the Parma Speed 8, HD, or the Protoform Speed 12 and 12 B are legal under BRCA rules, so that may be the reason the Zytec is so popular in the UK.
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