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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 03-02-2008, 04:42 PM   #28246
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Serpent 120 Pics NOW available!
Looks pretty sweet!

http://rctech.net/forum/showthread.php?t=204633&page=3
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Old 03-02-2008, 09:07 PM   #28247
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I know that having Li-po is abit of a stretch right now for 12th scale, but here is a link to an ebay auction of a 12th scale with a Li-Po pack installed: http://cgi.ebay.com/ASSOCIATED-1-12-...QQcmdZViewItem
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Old 03-02-2008, 09:14 PM   #28248
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cyrrus View Post
Hey Guys not to place another which car I should get.

Well here the delema. I used to run a hyperform l4 conversion kit last season. Since Lino past away.(may he rest in Peace). I just loved that car. unfortunatly I broke a bottom pob plate, at the end off last season. So this year I've been running a sp12x. nothing but problems for me. (don't know just not working for me)

So, one does any one know if there is anywhere there may still have the Razor in stock. ( I had the the orginal) to pick up or any one willilng or know of one for sale.

or does anyone know of any other great conversion kit's for the L4. I was thinking of getting the r5 but that won't be avail for a few weeks. If were lucky.

So if anyone can give any insight please either post here or send me a PM

Thanks

Cyrrus, here you go, the address and contact information for you to get another Hyperform Car. Heath Jackson is the guy to talk to. Maximus was Lino's stomping grounds for testing the cars, so he might still have some.Here is the info:

Conversion kits they are $120 shipped in the US via Priority
Mail.

Heath Jackson

Maximus Hobby Shop
Meadowbrook Plaza
647, US Route 1
York, Maine 03909
207.351.1520
www.teammaximus.com
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Old 03-02-2008, 09:25 PM   #28249
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Default Thanks to all you guys helpin me out. Long recap of last 2 days

This board and it's users rocks!

So my first day with my newly built RC12L4 was Saturday(yesterday). Old weak 1700 NiCds, a rear axle that was coming "un-shimmed" all the time, diff put together . . . I'm still wondering if the manual is right. The bearing carrier was installing itself properly making the tire hit the pod frame. Another 10 shims later I think this is sorted.


I had expected there would be no carpet tracks nearby or any people that were running 1/12ths (in NorCal) so I was trying to optimize grip for the asphalt out front my house. I installed the thinner .060 t-bar in the hope of gaining some compliance/grip. Replaced the stock .020 front springs with the softer .018(all I could find lhs). Eyeballed some negative camber and some toe out in the hopes of having some fun in the street. The setup worked pretty well I guess.

Come to find out there is a nice track about 30 minutes from me where some 1/12 scale gurus hang out.
Big video stream, 8:35 minutes
http://ammdesigns.podcastpeople.com/posts/19876

Went back today to try and figure the setup/track . . . For whatever reason the car was *still* pretty much undriveable. Most of it was *me* trying to learn this setup but the car was very inconsistent. I didn't know what was going on. Plenty of front end grip but no rear, oversteering everywhere. I put the camber back to flat and took out most of the toe out. It was better but the car would pull right when I punched it. Diff/tweak problems no doubt. I can't understand the Assc manual, the diff assy pics look wrong to me. Whatever . . .

The other thing I noticed was with the thin t-bar, the stock pod shock spring (green) was jacking the whole pod back making for a funny pod/chassis orientation. I haven't been able to find the soft shock spring locally so I said f this, I paid my money, I really want to get this thing up to speed. NOW.

I built the car a couple of weeks ago when I got the flu. I scoured the local shops for old Assc. stuff. Slim pickings. Being sort of a suspension specialist by trade I was looking for soft springs, front and rear. In my haste I picked up a couple of sets of 1/10 scale front .018s. Damn, they don't fit my front end. Oh well, good to have I guess . . .

So I'm at the track today, totally pissed with the oversteer/handling in general and this *stupid leaking excuse for a damper* which has a spring with too much rate/free length for my setup.

Coil over . . . pshaw. Then it hit me, *coil under*. So I took off the lower perch and spring, took the top perch (hat) off the shaft and put one of the 1/10th scale front .018 springs on the shaft and put the hat back on.


Went out on the next session and my old NiCds dumped badly. I went to the parts counter to buy the nice saddle pack they offered and some Jack the Gripper. *I really try to support my local guys. Don't really care what the price is. It is my duty to buy things from them whenever I can.* Tried to charge my old pack again but it was "fully charged" in 2 minutes. RIP. Wired up the new cells and hooked them up to the charger. 4A charge and they were done in 45 minutes? I think I need a new charger?

Now I had punch and extra weight from the new NiMH. It was a totally new car. I asked a couple of people to drive it. Both said it was easy to drive (4WD TC guys). Both said, "take some steering out, add some drag brake and put some sauce on the tires".

Dumped some steering, added some more brake and some tire sauce.

Totally transformed. I was now elevated from moving chicane to running with the bottom three TC's.

It's a crazy setup right now. I've got what looks to be about 5mm negative rake. Probably takes some caster out but I dunno . . . Looks f'ed to me but it drives well . . .


What say you RCTech?

Thanks Again . . .

Jeff
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Old 03-02-2008, 09:53 PM   #28250
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Hrm... lets see...

1.) I wouldn't use drag brake with anything but a faster brushless motor.

2.) Measure the rear, you want it 170-172mm wide.

3.) I'd suggest getting a spring back on the VCS shock, green/olive, or silver should be good choices. You need to set the shock up so that when it's at maximum length the rear bod droops below the rest of the chassis by a mm or two. You achieve this by adjusting the length of the ball cups, trimming them down may be needed. When the chassis is race ready adjust the VCS shock collar so the rear pod is level with the chassis.

4.) Tweak, see if you can use someones tweak station or use the old coin trick. Find the exact center on the bottom of the front chassis and mark it with a reamer (just a small indention will work, don't try to drill through it). Find a very level surface and put two choins on top of the front tires. Next lift the with an xacto knife or something sharp placed in the spot you made with the reamer. Which ever side drops first is light and the tweak screw on that side needs to be needs to be tightened or the opposite side loosened. Keep doing this until both coins drop at the same time. It's not perfect but it works pretty well. Note: it's very important that all suspension is smooth and not binding in any way to get proper tweak.

4.) Your ride height looks very high. You want to be between 3 and 4mm.

5.) Those are some seriously thick wires you're using. Make sure that they're not prohibiting rear pod movement.

6.) Get someone to show you how to properly build and adjust the rear diff. A smooth diff is very important in 1/12th scale. Here's a link that might help or might just confuse you more... http://markpayneblog.blogspot.com/20...erentials.html

Last edited by Ike; 03-02-2008 at 10:16 PM.
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Old 03-02-2008, 10:12 PM   #28251
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Thanks so much . . . book marked . ..

Rear is ~ 170

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ike View Post
Hrm... lets see...

1.) I wouldn't use drag brake with anything but a faster brushless motor.

2.) Measure the rear, you want it 170-172mm wide.

3.) I'd suggest getting a spring back on the VCS shock, green/olive, or silver should be good choices. You need to set the shock up so that when it's at maximum length the rear bod droops below the rest of the chassis by a mm or two. You achieve this by adjusting the length of the ball cups, trimming them down may be needed. When the chassis is race ready adjust the VCS shock collar so the rear pod is level with the chassis.

4.) Tweak, see if you can use someones tweak station or use the old coin trick. Find the exact center on the bottom of the front chassis and mark it with a reamer (just a small indention will work, don't try to drill through it). Find a very level surface and put two choins on top of the front tires. Next lift the with an xacto knife or something sharp placed in the spot you made with the reamer. Which ever side drops first is light and the tweak screw needs to be tightened or the opposite side loosened. Keep doing this until both coins drop at the same time. It's not perfect but it works pretty well. Note: it's very important that all suspension is smooth and not binding in any way to get proper tweak.

4.) Your ride height looks very high. You want to be between 3 and 4mm.

5.) Those are some sriously thick wires you're using. Make sure that they're not prohibiting rear pod movement.

6.) Get someone to show you how to properly build and adjust the rear diff. A smooth diff is very important in 1/12th scale. Here's a link that might help or might just confuse you more... http://markpayneblog.blogspot.com/20...erentials.html

Last edited by boscoj; 03-02-2008 at 10:24 PM.
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Old 03-03-2008, 01:09 AM   #28252
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Hi Jeff,

Here's a grat article on setting up L4 or similar type cars. This should give you an insight into the wonderful world of 1/12th racing, and it's not as easy a you might think!

http://www.carsrcracing.co.uk/?page_id=65

Check it out mate, hopefully it'll answer alot of questions for you.

Cheers,

Chris.
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Old 03-03-2008, 02:03 AM   #28253
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cheers mate . . . did some time in the UK . . . A levels amd a short S attempt . . . fun to hear some limey takes on this ish . . .

"May the skin off your arse never . . . cover a banjo."

Jeff

Quote:
Originally Posted by wingman2 View Post
Hi Jeff,

Here's a grat article on setting up L4 or similar type cars. This should give you an insight into the wonderful world of 1/12th racing, and it's not as easy a you might think!

http://www.carsrcracing.co.uk/?page_id=65

Check it out mate, hopefully it'll answer alot of questions for you.

Cheers,

Chris.
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Old 03-03-2008, 07:01 AM   #28254
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I was curious, what are those thick white rings left & right of the spurgear? I have seen this also on the prototype of the RC12R5 and have no idea what they are for.

Does anyone know this?

Joost.
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Old 03-03-2008, 07:26 AM   #28255
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joost K. View Post


I was curious, what are those thick white rings left & right of the spurgear? I have seen this also on the prototype of the RC12R5 and have no idea what they are for.

Does anyone know this?

Joost.
they are from Kimbro...
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TURBO GFX>>>> http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthread.php?p=4329165#post4329165
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Thanks for looking
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Old 03-03-2008, 07:26 AM   #28256
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Im pretty sure they are there to help keep the diff clean, they offer no other performance gain other then extending the rebuild time of the diff
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Old 03-03-2008, 07:28 AM   #28257
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They are diff ring covers. They act like a sheild to keep out debris.
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Old 03-03-2008, 07:34 AM   #28258
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Okay, that makes sense. Which company offers these diff covers?

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Old 03-03-2008, 07:36 AM   #28259
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Oh, my bad... I missed a reply, Kimbrough makes them...

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Old 03-03-2008, 07:42 AM   #28260
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but how do you fit them? I have them but can never get them to fit...seems like you need a big hammer and I don't like taking a hammer to 1/12th...
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