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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 03-01-2008, 10:02 AM   #28231
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Good point, I had started whittling away at the wheel arches.

How do you guys cut such perfect holes? This is a full weight body and the Xacto knife just doesn't seem to be the right tool . . .

Another thought, I have this motor in there right now, Reedy Nova? Black can with a pink label. Anyone know what type of motor this is? Suggestions on a new stocker?

tia
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Old 03-01-2008, 04:18 PM   #28232
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boscoj View Post
Good point, I had started whittling away at the wheel arches.

How do you guys cut such perfect holes? This is a full weight body and the Xacto knife just doesn't seem to be the right tool . . .

Another thought, I have this motor in there right now, Reedy Nova? Black can with a pink label. Anyone know what type of motor this is? Suggestions on a new stocker?

tia
I get my chassis rear to race wiht the size wheel i want to use then I mount the body while its clear. Take an extra front and rear wheel the same size as what it on your car and place it against the lexan where the wheel is and line it up with the wheel inside. Use a sharpie marker to trace around the wheel when you get it lined up. Take the body off and use a set of curved lexan scissors to cut the marker line you just made. By cutting all of the line away you get extra clearance so the wheel does not rub or tuck the body.

Once you get one body that you are really happy with as far as how its mounted race it and when its beat up cut away the rear side dams and the front of the body. This body can now serve as a template to tell you where to cut the body holes and wheel arch holes perfectly every time.

Just place the template body inside a new body and mark all your hole locations...your bodies will be perfect every time.
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Old 03-01-2008, 04:40 PM   #28233
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wicked-Wayz View Post
What is a good setup for a L4 running either a stock motor or 17.5. Tried finding the 12L4 thread but no such luck for me. If anyone can help thanks in advance.

Peace Aaron(W-W)
This is pretty similar to what I'm using for 10.5 on carpet. Not sure if that helps or not.
http://rc10.com/racerhub/setup/racer...k_IIC_2005.pdf
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Old 03-01-2008, 08:39 PM   #28234
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Thanks man, great tips. Like the new noob I am I painted the body first then proceeded to scratch up the paint trying to cut the various holes.

I went to http://www.allspeedhobbies.com who has a carpet track near my home in South San Francisco this afternoon with plenty of questions. One was about bodies. In fact the two kid brothers, must have been 12 and 14, were the most helpfull to me. = ) They said "oh you need the body scissors, they have em, six bucks." Okay . . ! They were great, running their 1/18th scale cars.

Everyone was really helpful and the shop was well stocked with just about anything one would need. Pretty amazed at the 4WD cars, tons of grip.

I farted around trying to dial in the car to no avail. It was good to have some 12 year old NiCd's in the car and 12 year old people to teach me the line . . . heh.

Thanks Again . . .

Last edited by boscoj; 03-01-2008 at 09:17 PM.
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Old 03-01-2008, 08:53 PM   #28235
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnny Carey View Post
Since its hard to get ahold of the Hot Bodies shock, how about the new IRS macro shock.
For those looking for the HB shock, look no further....but don't delay

https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/c...ns&pn=HOT61695
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Old 03-01-2008, 09:03 PM   #28236
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Thanks spdtch, reminded me I needed to re-install Acrobat Reader . . .

Quote:
Originally Posted by spdtch View Post
This is pretty similar to what I'm using for 10.5 on carpet. Not sure if that helps or not.
http://rc10.com/racerhub/setup/racer...k_IIC_2005.pdf
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Old 03-01-2008, 10:39 PM   #28237
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Quote:
Originally Posted by P2 View Post
For those looking for the HB shock, look no further....but don't delay

https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/c...ns&pn=HOT61695
Done. Thank you.
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Old 03-02-2008, 02:58 AM   #28238
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Default What Gauge Wire

I've just ordered an LRP Sphere 2007 spec esc for my 12th car, what is the smallest gauge wire I can use? (Sorry, the search function is not working for me at the moment ??)
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Old 03-02-2008, 03:57 AM   #28239
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16 awg wire is imo the smallest wire you can use.

jonas
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Old 03-02-2008, 04:34 AM   #28240
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Benn looking to get a 12 Scale and was looking at the Yokomo12L4 Worlds kit . I no the car been out for a few years and was wondering if the car is still competitive? Any body no about the car
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Old 03-02-2008, 07:39 AM   #28241
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Hi Boscoj. This is my b'shell routine. Cut the extra lexan from below the cut lines all around the b'shell. Mark the shell with a pen for the hole to let the roll over mast through. Then use a REAMER to cut that hole out. Then line the shell up and mark where the holes need to be for the 4 bodyposts. Use the reamer again to made these holes. Then mount the shell (the wheel arches are still in place at this point) onto your chassis making sure it is at the correct height for when you race the car. Now mark the wheel arches where the axles are in the middle of the arches and slightly outside of where the tyres will be inside the shell. Now take the shell off the chassis and use a COMPASS CUTTER to get perfectly round wheel arches. Give the edges a sanding to get rid of the sharp edges that can dig into your tyres during a crash and hopefully your now good to go. Feel free to ask any questions in you are not sure about something.

Cheers bud, Chris.
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Old 03-02-2008, 09:22 AM   #28242
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Default "what is the smallest gauge wire I can use?"

Go with 16 gauge easy to work with, light weight and more than enough to handle the load.
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Old 03-02-2008, 11:30 AM   #28243
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Hey Guys not to place another which car I should get.

Well here the delema. I used to run a hyperform l4 conversion kit last season. Since Lino past away.(may he rest in Peace). I just loved that car. unfortunatly I broke a bottom pob plate, at the end off last season. So this year I've been running a sp12x. nothing but problems for me. (don't know just not working for me)

So, one does any one know if there is anywhere there may still have the Razor in stock. ( I had the the orginal) to pick up or any one willilng or know of one for sale.

or does anyone know of any other great conversion kit's for the L4. I was thinking of getting the r5 but that won't be avail for a few weeks. If were lucky.

So if anyone can give any insight please either post here or send me a PM

Thanks
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Old 03-02-2008, 01:38 PM   #28244
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the diggity design conversion kit is good i heard, but i cant tell you where to get it, rcscrewz used to carry it, but not anymore. (those bastards )
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Old 03-02-2008, 01:45 PM   #28245
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Hi mate, I have sent parts to 'fibre lyte' here in the UK. They produce the same part (or with any options you may want done) and send it back. I know you won't wanna do that with that particular company (coz of the distance, cost, etc) but you should have something similar closer to where you come from.

Good luck, Chris.
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