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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!


BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)


Enneti (Xceed)

As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.


If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick

  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020

  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


Reflex Racing/RSD:


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Old 04-16-2003, 08:58 AM   #2791
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Originally posted by Graphitedust
While on the subject of batteries.....(sub-"C" size)

At what amp rate do you charge a 4 cell nimh pack? My Novak charger has a setting for four cells and six cells. I charge my six cell packs at 5 amps. Do I need to reduce the amperage with less cells? Or does it remain the same?
Thanks everyone! Great input....
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Old 04-16-2003, 09:11 AM   #2792
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Originally posted by Graphitedust
Thanks everyone! Great input....
charge at 5 amps and set the threshold for each cell at 3mv.

Thant's what I do! I am just a newbie in 1/12th
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Old 04-16-2003, 01:59 PM   #2793
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I put a 700 Mah reciever pack on my capret knife, took it out in the road and ran it 225 feet from me and still had control. The extra voltage made the difference for the reciever. I did like some one said earlier in the forum, just plugged it in with the switch off. It was alomst out of sight (no body) and I could still drive the car. Must be the motor was drawing the volts down. I also have a Duratrax streak speed control so It is probably the rest of the problem.

David Root
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Old 04-16-2003, 02:26 PM   #2794
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anyone lookig for tires? look in the used tread i have alot for sale
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Old 04-16-2003, 05:34 PM   #2795
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Default reciever pack/esc switch

Taking the switch off of your esc will keep you from accidently turning the bec on with the reciever pack, but if you do you will have no backup if you have to run without the reciever pack in an emergency (like when you forget to charge the reciever pack). I just mount the esc switch in an inconvenient spot and put tape over it. No one (including me) will accidently turn it on that way, but it's there if I need it.
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Old 04-17-2003, 10:24 AM   #2796
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I was wondering if there were any good outdoor setups posted for 12th scale cars. Associated's site doesn't really have anything for the 12L other than for carpet. I recently began running 12th scale indoors this past winter and we usually have pretty decent class on our outdoor track so I hope to run outdoors with the car this summer. I will most likely run a 12L3 with side dampners rather than the dampner disks. I also have the option of running a carpet knife but I have heard that it does not like the outdoor surfaces. Any setup help on either car would be appreciated.

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Old 04-19-2003, 04:28 PM   #2797
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Old 04-20-2003, 06:07 AM   #2798
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Hi guys,
i have just got a Corrally SP12M, any advice on setups for carpet and general things to do to it and to look out for?

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Old 04-20-2003, 07:28 AM   #2799
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I guess some of you might know this, but I thought Id share it anyways. I was messing around at the track last night, there was no race. Ive only had my L3 for 3 months, and I already hate re-lubing the damper discs. So I remembered back to my TC3, where I used to use White Lightning Dry Teflon Lube on the diff gear. I gave it a shot, I put about 3 drops on the discs, and on each side of the plate, and its free like it was with grease. No dirt, either. And it was consistent for 5 x 10 minute runs. I also put some on my spur gear, and its almost silent.

I would be very interested if someone else gave it a try and see what their results are. The stuff is White lightning, get it at your local bike shop. If you cant get white lightning, get any Dry Teflon Lube.
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Old 04-20-2003, 09:29 AM   #2800
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i have been reading through this thread and in noticed that the rc12l is the most popular 12th scale kit... any comments on the carpet knife, especially the red edition and the 3.1 version.

any comments on the swithcblade? it seems to me that the carpetknife is the on the 1/12 kit with a different rear end, that is the floating rear... and the swithblade, the only 1/12 kit with a different front end...

any thougths, suggestions, comments on these 2 cars would be highly appreciated, i leaning towards these 2 cars... thnx
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Old 04-20-2003, 10:47 AM   #2801
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Cool My $.02

I hope you didn't start something.

I have the carpet kinfe, I love it.

From what I can see, The T bar is the big issiue. Carpet knife doesn't have it and uses side springs that can be changed. There are 5 or 6 different side springs, I have them all. One step in either direction makes a big difference. I think the thickness of the T plate does a similar thing. I have never had a T plate car.

I have also read the T bar transmits the bumps directly to the chasis before it can get to the shock or damper.

Carpet knife you can change weight distribution and how it acts and reacts independantly from fore and aft and side to side.

Center shock totally does front to back weight transfer, you can change springs and shock oil and droop.

Side to side springs can be changed and damper tubes can have different oil in them.

Red version looks better, has all aluminum screws (I don't like 'em), has lowered rear axel mounts so you can get more out of your tires, and comes with better tires than the 3.1. I have the 3.1.

The people at Calandra are the nicest bunch. I have been to their track. Just plain good people. Unbelievable racers too. Last Friday Frank and Mark were racing off road where I do.

Its more of a personal choice I think.

Look at Speedmerchant, they have a different front end too. I think they just came out with a new one. Most have the AE rear axle setup.
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Old 04-20-2003, 11:05 AM   #2802
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thank you very much... very informative... personally im leaning towards the carpet knife, and you're right i spoke with frank and john and they do seem like good people, that's one of the reasons im leaning towards the varpet knife...

the only reason i'm kinda thinking about the switchblade is because, its the most winnest car out there now and maybe thier unique front end is the key...

anyway... thanks again
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Old 04-20-2003, 12:15 PM   #2803
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hi guys,
i raced a carpet knife last season, and they are brilliant cars. i must say u have made a brilliant discussion on the cars, trinity or calandra.
well guess what im running next season, thats right, a trinity.
the calandra is a brilliant car, parts are reletively easy to get, and like dave root said, the guys at calandra are some of the nicest guys out there, top job guys!

my reasons for running the trinity are, i love the look of them, they are extremely competitive, and they have a tbar, i dont know why, but i really wanted to try a tbar car.
i dont want the trinity to copy dave spash, thats a dead sert.
here in the uk, he is probably the best driver, and he could beat a hell of a lot of people with a piece of wood and 1400mah batteries!! lol
they just seem to me to be a winning package, not necessarily the best car, i meen, last season, we had asso, trinity, corally cars in the a final. alll the cars now basically are so evenly matched, its hard to pick 'THE BEST' 12th racer.

if this is maybe your 1st or second 12th season, i would go with the calalndra, mainly because of parts support and ease of setup.
if you are an expericenced racer, i would point you in the direction of the trinity, as it has every adjustment possible.

u have to admit, when it comes down to it, its personal prefernece, do u like the 'stealthiness' of the corally, the 'pimpiness' of the calandra, or the 'car that should be illegal in 27 states of america for its shear looks, the trinity.

just my views, some guy will probs slater me now 4 not mentioning the L3, well its a good car, but in my view, there not the best. hehe, slater away!!

matt rice
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Old 04-20-2003, 04:01 PM   #2804
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Wanna know what the best 1/12th scale car is.... Look at the one etting in front of you...LOL Basically all 1/12th cars are the same. Sure the trinity and corally suspensions are different from all the rest, but they all work the same...... Right now am running a mutt, I started with a CRC BLOODY RED 6-PACK, then I used a Yokomo sp2001 chassis and cross brace, I am using the "old school" or "retro" front end (depeding on who you ask), but I will be getting the Speedmerchant front and when it is released.....
G's RC Raceway- Best off-road track on the east coast...period!!!

Pitman for Team Dallas Austin...
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Old 04-20-2003, 11:07 PM   #2805
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thanks guys... i'll probably start with the carpet knife... and like what RICE98W, i'd probably also get a swithcblade, just because, it chould be illegal in 27 states...

so... any suggestions on the carpet knife? what parts to get, set-up, etc... thnx
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