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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 01-19-2008, 01:20 PM   #28021
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Quote:
Originally Posted by odpurple View Post
What me?!? Never!
Me either I was referring to the gentleman with the notchy diff

Did you sense me starting to quiver and quake though when the other guy asked for the rollout formula? Thankfully someone jumped in and saved the day.

btw--you're still not forgiven.
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Old 01-19-2008, 01:38 PM   #28022
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scottrik View Post
Me either I was referring to the gentleman with the notchy diff

Did you sense me starting to quiver and quake though when the other guy asked for the rollout formula? Thankfully someone jumped in and saved the day.

btw--you're still not forgiven.
Yes, well, we must always remember to help the racers less fortunate than ourselves

I saw that long-ass post and thought "Scottrik's at it again" but it was just quoting you. How does it feel to be quotable? When people repeat something I said they do it with a sarcastic tone, does that mean anything?

I know that somehow, some day, you will forgive me
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Old 01-19-2008, 02:23 PM   #28023
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Details about thrust bearing set up - http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthre...ng#post4034797

Scott, nice detailed explanation about rollout!
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Old 01-19-2008, 02:30 PM   #28024
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Originally Posted by Arn0 View Post
Details about thrust bearing set up - http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthre...ng#post4034797

Scott, nice detailed explanation about rollout!
Be carefull with thrust bearings guys. If they get dirty or if you set them too tight they will still be smooth but they can make you car push.

I have been racing on road on asphalt parking lots for 22 years and I only need to replace my right hub bearing once per year. I dont use anything special either...just BMI/Boca stainless bearings, steel balls (not ceramic, or tungsten), and IRS D rings sanded on 600 grit wet dry paper.

My diffs are always glass smooth, spin super free and will not slip at all.
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Old 01-19-2008, 02:41 PM   #28025
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AdrianM View Post
Be carefull with thrust bearings guys. If they get dirty or if you set them too tight they will still be smooth but they can make you car push.

I have been racing on road on asphalt parking lots for 22 years and I only need to replace my right hub bearing once per year. I dont use anything special either...just BMI/Boca stainless bearings, steel balls (not ceramic, or tungsten), and IRS D rings sanded on 600 grit wet dry paper.

My diffs are always glass smooth, spin super free and will not slip at all.
Thats the answer i was looking for.
What balls do you sugest and do u fill up all the holes in the spur with balls or just the outer.
Thanks for the help guys.
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Old 01-19-2008, 03:08 PM   #28026
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AdrianM View Post
Be carefull with thrust bearings guys. If they get dirty or if you set them too tight they will still be smooth but they can make you car push.

I have been racing on road on asphalt parking lots for 22 years and I only need to replace my right hub bearing once per year. I dont use anything special either...just BMI/Boca stainless bearings, steel balls (not ceramic, or tungsten), and IRS D rings sanded on 600 grit wet dry paper.

My diffs are always glass smooth, spin super free and will not slip at all.
I will check that carefully so!

Diff made with CRC parts, AE diff balls (#6626) ans AE diff lube (#6591), use 600 sand paper with water and a right hub to avoid parallelism problem.




Other point: I'm looking for some setup sheets for 12L3 and 12L4, in fact AE 1:12th pan cars with 4 cells. I did look at AE website!
Could some of you could post some sheets? Obviously carpet track
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Old 01-19-2008, 03:44 PM   #28027
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Thats the answer i was looking for.
What balls do you sugest and do u fill up all the holes in the spur with balls or just the outer.
Thanks for the help guys.
Please copy and paste this into MS Word so you have saved locally

Building a Diff

I use plain chrome steel diff balls from BMI, IRS, anyone...they are all the same high grade 1/8" ball bearings.

I like to use Schumacher U1301 silicon diff grease or Associated silicon diff grease, the thick type in a plastic cup not the stealth grease in a squeeze tube. Stealth grease is too thin and gets flung out too easy.

The diff balls I buy come in a 100 pack for ~$8. I open the pack over a clean paper tower and dump them out. All diff balls have a coating of oil on them to protect them while they sit on a shelf. I use motor spray carefull to wet them and then roll them on the paper towel to dry them. I then dump them all into the cup of diff grease. I keep them there untill I use them.

When I build a diff I sand both sides of the diff rings with 600 grit wet-dry sandpaper lubricated with a little motor spray untill I see an even finish across the face of the rings. I then clean the rings with motor spray and dry them on a clean paper tower.

Be sure to clean your finger tips with motor spray before touching the diff balls or rings. If you get any bearing oil or traction compound on them from your fingers it will contaminate the diff and mess it up.

I then pluck the diff balls out of the diff grease cup with a small clean flat blade screwdriver and put them in the spur gear. They will carry all the diff grease they need with them. You do not need to put more on the rings. I put a ball in all 12 holes in the outer circle. The inner circle of holes is for the no longer used small diameter "Stealth" diff rings.

Assemble the diff normally but tighten it slowly until you just start to get diff action. If you overtighten it you can dimple the rings and flat spot the balls. Tighten it and check the gear for slipping. As soon as the gear starts to get hard to slip stop.

Mount some tires on the axle. Hold one tire and the gear locked and force the opposide side to turn a few turns. Repeat with the other side. This is called cutting the diff. Cutting the diff smooths out any imperfections in the rings and balls by burnishing them. The diff may have loosened a little from cutting it so readjust it so the gear is very hard to slip (this is tighter than the previous step).

Install a motor and put the car up so the wheel are not touching the table. Run it at meduim throttle and alternatly touch one tire then the other untill it just stops then let go. This will heat up and fling out excess diff grease as well as breaking in the diff. Do this a couple times per side.

Re adjust the diff a final time so it wil not slip and you are done. The diff should be glass smooth. It should spin very freely as if it were really loose but the diff gear should be almost impossible to slip.

If the diff is gritty with new rings and balls replace the outer right side hub bearing.

If the diff is slipping you have some petroleum oil contamination in the diff. Take everything apart and start over after cleaing everything with motor spray.
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Old 01-19-2008, 07:58 PM   #28028
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Thanks Adrian, That REALLY help. Printed it out and put it a binder
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Old 01-19-2008, 10:11 PM   #28029
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Has the Speed 8 body pretty much become the standard, or are there still a lot of people using the Speed 12????
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Old 01-19-2008, 11:02 PM   #28030
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Has the Speed 8 body pretty much become the standard, or are there still a lot of people using the Speed 12????
The Speed 8 is THE high grip stock carpet body.

For asphalt or med to low grip carpet most prefer the Speed 8HD or Speed 12.

I run the Speed 12 mostly because its fast, looks the best.
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Old 01-20-2008, 08:17 AM   #28031
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Thanks Adrian, I'm calling Jeff over at Speedtech on Monday to get some sent over



Quote:
Originally Posted by AdrianM View Post
The Speed 8 is THE high grip stock carpet body.

For asphalt or med to low grip carpet most prefer the Speed 8HD or Speed 12.

I run the Speed 12 mostly because its fast, looks the best.
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Old 01-20-2008, 08:27 AM   #28032
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Default Spring rates

I'm looking for some spring rates to build a spring chart and I can't find spring rates (lb/mm) for Corally (both 1/12 and TC) and the CRC side springs.

1294 - Side Spring-Orange Super Soft
1295 - Side Spring- Blue - Soft
1296 - Side Spring- White - Med
1297 - Side Spring- Red - firm
1298 - Side Spring- Green X-firm
1299 - Side Spring Purple XX-Firm

75564 - SP12X – Front Springs, Soft – 4.0 T / 1.5 mm
75565 - SP12X – Front Springs, Medium – 3.5 T / 1.5 mm
75566 - SP12X – Front Springs, Hard – 3.0 T / 1.5 mm

Other than that, I get the AE both front and center springs, the CRC center springs - just need confirmation about the rate of the silver stiff and silver super stiff.

Guest with that all spring for 1/12 are the same.

PS: I already search website manufacturer and parts lists
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Old 01-20-2008, 12:17 PM   #28033
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Sorry for asking again, but what is a good rollout for 19T racing? I made a complete rollout chart, so I don't need to know which tire diameter or pinion I should run, just which rollout is best for 19T-23T (Orion V2 and Tamiya RZ).
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Old 01-20-2008, 11:00 PM   #28034
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Adrian

thanks for the post on building the diff. Great post.

Just a quick question. you mentioned to be carefull with a thrust bearing. My car came with a thrust bearing. what would be needed to complete a read diff with out the thrust bearing in it.

Thanks in advance
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Old 01-21-2008, 03:54 AM   #28035
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I've got a few questions....

There is this sweeper (in the pic) which comes off the main straight, and you carry alot of speed through this corner, But 3/4 of the way through the sweeper my car starts understeering and i have to button off the make it around the sweeper, whilst some other 12th drivers carry more speed through there.

pic of the sweeper:


we don't use tyre additive

Chassis: corally sp12x (standard front)

What i've tried:
Soft and hard T-bars

Soft and hard fronts,(even the softest compound still 'pushes' / understeers mid corner on power.)

hard and soft side damper fluid

different shock fluids / tensions.

I'm using pink rears, but thinking of going slightly harder to see if i can get more front traction.

Or i'm actually thinking of putting some weights on the very front of my 12x front, as there seems to be alot of biased weight to the rear.

Any tips?

Also....

I'm still a bit clueless as to what levels you adjust the tweak screws on the tbar for what surfaces etc etc?

cheers for any help... there is always more to learn with 12th










Quote:
Originally Posted by jheimb4897 View Post
RC mushroom sells them for $249.99. Not too bad. I just wish they would release these in the states. I know they would be a hit. 1/8 scale action at a WAYYY cheaper price. I would get one, it's just I don't think the parts support would be there. Though I do work in a machine shop part time, and could make CF parts if I had to...
We had a full heat of them at the Hobby Direct / Racing lines International in New Zealand the other week.

they sound very awesome when a few of them are screaming passed you.

But they didn't impress me that much (speed wise etc).

12ths electric are faster, and require alot less maintenance
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