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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 01-17-2008, 02:02 PM   #27991
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like we've seen in all the threads concerning motors.. it all depends on what size of a track you are racing. If JayBro would take his tail to the monthly Superior hobbies race he might get to see it stomp some tail if he can keep clear of the nitro touring newbs.
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Old 01-17-2008, 02:22 PM   #27992
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Originally Posted by Pro ten Holland View Post
Lipo and 10.5 too fast for a 10th pancar??
I run mine with a 3.5 (how many people can say they have overtaken an 1/8th scale nitro on the straight?)
2 cell lipo/7.4v and 10.5 is too fast. 2 cell lipo and a 3.5/7.4v, I really dont think the diff can handle.
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Old 01-17-2008, 10:32 PM   #27993
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The diff holds up fine. No difference from running 4200's and a 3.5.
We've been running 4200's and 3.5's for 2 years now. We've run on asphalt and on carpet.
Not a huge step to Lipo.
Just don't run 64 pitch
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Old 01-18-2008, 12:05 AM   #27994
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Originally Posted by Pro ten Holland View Post
The diff holds up fine. No difference from running 4200's and a 3.5.
We've been running 4200's and 3.5's for 2 years now. We've run on asphalt and on carpet.
Not a huge step to Lipo.
Just don't run 64 pitch
Why not Mathijs, I allways run 64dp. Last summer I drove 6cell 4200 with a 4.5r geared at 18/120 on my L2 and the spur held out fine! Man that car was a rocket, lol, I cant imagine what a 3.5 would do.
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Old 01-18-2008, 04:17 AM   #27995
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Originally Posted by Pro ten Holland View Post
The diff holds up fine. No difference from running 4200's and a 3.5.
We've been running 4200's and 3.5's for 2 years now. We've run on asphalt and on carpet.
Not a huge step to Lipo.
Just don't run 64 pitch
6 cell and a 3.5? Your a better man than me.
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Old 01-18-2008, 05:36 AM   #27996
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On a link car, what does raising the front link ball do to the hanling of the car. Also what does it do if you raise the back ball also.
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Old 01-18-2008, 05:42 AM   #27997
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Originally Posted by SMOKESHOW86 View Post
On a link car, what does raising the front link ball do to the hanling of the car. Also what does it do if you raise the back ball also.
Raising the front of the shock gives more weight transfer to the front on-power and tends to provide more on-power steering.

Raising BOTH ends of the shock the same amount only raises the center of gravity because you haven't altered the geometry, you've just pushed it further in the air. A vertical shift through addition of a constant in cartesian coordinate linear equation terms where the line is defined by the axis of your shock.
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Old 01-18-2008, 06:05 AM   #27998
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The links im talking about are the side links that go from the rear pod to the main chassis.
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Old 01-18-2008, 06:39 AM   #27999
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Originally Posted by Scottrik View Post
Raising the front of the shock gives more weight transfer to the front on-power and tends to provide more on-power steering.

Raising BOTH ends of the shock the same amount only raises the center of gravity because you haven't altered the geometry, you've just pushed it further in the air. A vertical shift through addition of a constant in cartesian coordinate linear equation terms where the line is defined by the axis of your shock.
Raising both front and rear of the shock the same amount will move the shock further from the pivot point which gives the shock a softer feel due to the increase in leverage. That is really the only difference. The goemetry is the same and yes it will slightly increase the CG but not much.
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Old 01-18-2008, 06:59 AM   #28000
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Originally Posted by SMOKESHOW86 View Post
The links im talking about are the side links that go from the rear pod to the main chassis.
The first key is you need to move the pivot height up and down to match what is done with the side links.

The closer to the chassis you are with the links and pivots the lower the roll center, raising them raises the roll center. This can be seen with the pre-3.2R Carpet knives "standard" roll-center vs the accessory "low" roll-center kit (which was standard on the 3.2R and now the Gen-X). Raising the roll center gives more side-to-side weight transfer and aids rear traction in low-medium grip situations. This can lead to traction-rolling as grip increases. Lowering the roll-center decreases this tendency to traction-roll by making shift more laterally at the tire contact patch than pushing down (higher roll-center) so the rear will try to break traction (eventually) and slide rather than bite in.
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Old 01-18-2008, 08:46 AM   #28001
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Can someone tell me if Jaco Prizm wheels are the same diameter as the CRC wheels?

thank you very much
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Old 01-18-2008, 08:49 AM   #28002
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Originally Posted by protc3 View Post
6 cell and a 3.5? Your a better man than me.
Actually, a 10th pancar is way easier to drive than a 1/12th scale car.
You only need a little throttle control.
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Old 01-18-2008, 08:50 AM   #28003
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Can someone tell me if Jaco Prizm wheels are the same diameter as the CRC wheels?

thank you very much
I think they're pretty close. Why?
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Old 01-18-2008, 09:11 AM   #28004
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I think they're pretty close. Why?
I have CRC tires installed on my gen-x currently. I don't have CRC rear pinks available right now so I'm thinking of putting Prizm pinks on the rear, and dont want to put a different size wheel on to limit the change of variables on my setup. I also heard I have to shim both sides to keep the width the same.
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Old 01-18-2008, 09:18 AM   #28005
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Actually, to answer Smoke's original question. Raising the front of the link creates roll steer by moving the inside wheel forward. This can help with steering in the middle of the corner but can make an already aggressive car very hard to drive. Raising the rear of the link has the opposite effect and is rarely used since the car doesn't want to track correctly in the corner.

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