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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 01-14-2008, 12:51 PM   #27946
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Applesauce View Post
OK hopefully I can explain this right. First should there be room for the spindle to move up and down between the upper and lower arm. If not where do i need to shim it at? (above the spindle, below the spindle, or on the top of the king pin?

Thanks for your help.
Most set ups call for no space between the spindle and arm, but no pre-load on the spring. Put the shims on the top of the kingpin. Just make sure that the play, or lack of it, is the same on both sides
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Old 01-14-2008, 02:25 PM   #27947
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Quote:
Originally Posted by odpurple View Post
He means what brand. C2, Komodo, Orion, all are geared differently.
Ow OK, I'm running Team Brood 19T and Team Orion V2 19T.
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Old 01-14-2008, 04:21 PM   #27948
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Originally Posted by potloodslijper View Post
Ow OK, I'm running Team Brood 19T and Team Orion V2 19T.
Sorry but once again, it matters what brand the motor is based on. Team Brood has 19t motors based on Atlas, Trinity Komodo Dragon, Trinity C2, Reedy and maybe others, including the V2 you mentioned. If you can figure out which Brood motor you have someone will be able to help you. I know a good starting rollout for the Komodo on a track like the one you mentioned is 47mm. C2 would be higher. Reedy even higher
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Old 01-14-2008, 08:04 PM   #27949
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Switch Blade View Post
Its an L4 with purple anodizing. Andy raced an L4 during the BRCA 1/12 nationals before hotbodies released their kit.
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Old 01-14-2008, 10:34 PM   #27950
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bakaguyjean View Post
Sorry to barge in but my buddy in The Neatherlands said he saw some 4WD 1/12th cars at a race. Anybody heard of these? I have a ABC Spark from 20+ years ago so if these things return im all about getting one.

Perhaps he meant the M-Auto Cup.
They have a class for 1/12th scale touring cars. These are smaller versions of Xray and Corally TC's with full size TC tires.
http://www.m-auto.nl/index.php?page=data-circuits
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Old 01-14-2008, 10:43 PM   #27951
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I know that Kyosho came out with a nitro pwered version a 1/12th scale pan car that is four wheel drive, however: they will not sell it in the states. You can order one through Kyosho America, but it will come from Kyosho in Japan. Their is no support for it here. That is what my LHS told one guy when he asked about it.

Here is the link to read up on the car: http://www.kyosho.com/eng/products/r...duct_id=102180

and link to see the movie: http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/fun/movie/...PADA09_320.wmv
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Old 01-15-2008, 08:34 AM   #27952
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Hey guys.

I just installed a front brace on my carpet knife.
There are two o-rings that fit in the middle of this brace.

Can the brace be adjusted with o-rings (more or less)?
What is the net affect of this brace anyhow?

Any experience with this gentlmen?
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Old 01-15-2008, 09:28 AM   #27953
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hey Chris

hows 12th scale doing in AZ? is CH racing the class? if so is it all Mod. just saw the SIGP 2008 post for the race in Apr.
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Old 01-15-2008, 09:39 AM   #27954
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Originally Posted by Pro ten Holland View Post
Perhaps he meant the M-Auto Cup.
They have a class for 1/12th scale touring cars. These are smaller versions of Xray and Corally TC's with full size TC tires.
http://www.m-auto.nl/index.php?page=data-circuits
This must be what he was talking about,thanks
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Old 01-15-2008, 09:52 AM   #27955
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Originally Posted by fast-ho-cars View Post
hey Chris

hows 12th scale doing in AZ? is CH racing the class? if so is it all Mod. just saw the SIGP 2008 post for the race in Apr.
Well the on-road TC and 1/12 racing scene here in Phx is bad, very bad. I have'nt logged a single lap on any of my 1/12 cars in over three months. In fact I have a brand new DB12R that I powered up once to finish setting it up and now its sitting on the shelf gathering dust.

Now if you travel to Tucson its a whole other story. Most of the racers from here in Phx are traveling there to race on Saturday AMs. The only on-road action here now is some parking lot bashing, but thats mostly oval and no 1/12 at all.
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Old 01-15-2008, 10:15 AM   #27956
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Default 1/12 Servo

What Servo Should I Run In a Crc Gen X Car
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Old 01-15-2008, 10:31 AM   #27957
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Originally Posted by mtbboy View Post
Hey guys.

I just installed a front brace on my carpet knife.
There are two o-rings that fit in the middle of this brace.

Can the brace be adjusted with o-rings (more or less)?
What is the net affect of this brace anyhow?

Any experience with this gentlmen?
Also what effect would changing the roll center ie: raising it have on a 12 scale?
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Old 01-15-2008, 11:02 AM   #27958
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Default 12 rollcenter

do we really have the ability to change roll centers on the 1/12? how is this done?
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Old 01-15-2008, 11:14 AM   #27959
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do we really have the ability to change roll centers on the 1/12? how is this done?
On a tplate car it would be shimming the pivot balls.
On a link car it is shimming the ballstuds for the liknks.

I,m on a low grip track that has lots of low speed technical elements.
I am hoping a higher roll center would improve lateral recovery.
Apparently noone knows what I,m talking about.
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Old 01-15-2008, 04:49 PM   #27960
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um
i know you can change the front but the rear idono,its a solid axle and all you would do is raise or lower the pod.
but if you lower the r.c on the front it makes the car a little lazier and easier to drive.
and if you lengthen the upper link like in the Gen-X with the longer upper balls it too makes the car less edgy in the corners on high bit track conditions.

Last edited by wallyedmonds; 01-15-2008 at 04:59 PM.
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