R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

    Hide Wikipost
Old 10-28-2016, 12:43 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: 1/12 forum
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: fenton06
This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

Print Wikipost

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 01-09-2008, 01:49 PM   #27916
Tech Elite
 
odpurple's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: San Francisco
Posts: 2,187
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by edseb View Post
Ok have a project going on that I've wanted to try for a bit (just for fun). I have the Hara Hammer conversion and finishing it up. Few things I've noticed. The chassis seems very thin and has a lot of cut outs giving the car some twist. I'm assuming the car was originally designed for asphalt (at least my kit) and not very good for carpet? Next the is two white rectangle clamps that go around 2 silver aluminum rectangle posts that are centered in large springs. The white plastic pieces have 2 screws that adjust (?) the tension of the clamping around the silver rectangle posts. Even with the screws backed out all the way, it seems they grab quite a bit, is this common and do I leave it that way or is some adjustment/work needed to be done. Since there is no other noticeable side dampening I'm assuming that is what they are for, but seems like an odd way to dampen it. Looks like the rear pod just free floats side to side with this design? Any help with the car would be great.
Make sure that the rectangular posts are not turned slightly, if they are not perfectly aligned they will cause the plastic "sliders" to bind. The springs don't actually provide any dampening, you get that from the friction discs and dampening fluid, lust like an L4.

The car is designed for asphalt racing, it didn't work well for me on carpet. I converted it to the PRC "Sledge Hammer" which has a thicker, stiffer chassis, and changed the discs to tubes and it was much better. Actually a very aggressive car with lots of steering
__________________
TOP Racing USA--OD Racing--Novak--Power Push--J Spec
odpurple is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-09-2008, 06:48 PM   #27917
Tech Master
 
wingman2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Tewkesbury, UK via Plymouth, UK.
Posts: 1,259
Default

Yeah, I agree, I never really got on well with it on carpet either.
wingman2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-09-2008, 06:50 PM   #27918
Tech Elite
 
edseb's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Laguna Niguel, California
Posts: 2,422
Default

Thanks. Thought the rectangular posts were a bit odd. If discs are used for dampening what I don't get is why there is a tension screw that adjusts tightness of the white clamp around the aluminum rectangle posts? You'd think they'd just be rectangle without any adjustment.
__________________
RC Car Action Editor and Photographer
Carl Hyndman
edseb is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-09-2008, 09:09 PM   #27919
Tech Elite
 
odpurple's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: San Francisco
Posts: 2,187
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by wingman2 View Post
Yeah, I agree, I never really got on well with it on carpet either.
I think we've both moved on

Quote:
Originally Posted by edseb View Post
Thanks. Thought the rectangular posts were a bit odd. If discs are used for dampening what I don't get is why there is a tension screw that adjusts tightness of the white clamp around the aluminum rectangle posts? You'd think they'd just be rectangle without any adjustment.
I suppose if they could get the tolerances perfect and make everything line up right it wouldn't need the adjustment. In reality it allows you to loosen them just enough so the pod moves freely side to side without having any play at the rear
__________________
TOP Racing USA--OD Racing--Novak--Power Push--J Spec
odpurple is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-10-2008, 12:40 AM   #27920
Tech Elite
 
edseb's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Laguna Niguel, California
Posts: 2,422
Default

Thanks. I wasn't really planning to take it to carpet, just a fun project to learn some things. I kind of suspected it wouldn't work too hot with the twisto flexy chassis, but.... Anyways since my carpet car (Gen X) doesn't touch asphalt, this looks like my asphalt whip experiment fun car.
__________________
RC Car Action Editor and Photographer
Carl Hyndman
edseb is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-10-2008, 06:38 AM   #27921
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada
Posts: 708
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

I've read several posts about the Hot Bodies Cyclone12 rear shock being 'the thing to have'....what makes this so...? If some of you that have them could compare it to the stock shock that comes with the 12l3 (I know, a little outdated but....) I would really appreciate it! Thanks in advance!
adam lancia is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-10-2008, 01:41 PM   #27922
Tech Addict
 
trickd122's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 509
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default cheap

Can the CRC lowered POD fit the AE12L4
Found this on stormer's site for $25.00 1/2 the price of the IRS stuff

CRC4240 CRC Aluminum Lowered Rear Bulkhead Set, Red
trickd122 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-10-2008, 02:04 PM   #27923
Tech Master
 
wingman2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Tewkesbury, UK via Plymouth, UK.
Posts: 1,259
Default

I don't know anything about the HB shock, but the shock that came with my car (Team Laje SpeedEvil) has a shock from an Associated 1/18th scale car. So it's actually a 'proper' shock like on a touring car, just smaller. All the Associated 12th springs fit it as well. I have had no problems with it at all, very good bit of kit!
wingman2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-10-2008, 02:06 PM   #27924
Tech Master
 
wingman2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Tewkesbury, UK via Plymouth, UK.
Posts: 1,259
Default

Oh, and I used to use the CRC rear ali' parts for my 12l4 as well, they fit perfectly.
wingman2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-10-2008, 02:44 PM   #27925
Tech Addict
 
trickd122's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 509
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by wingman2 View Post
Oh, and I used to use the CRC rear ali' parts for my 12l4 as well, they fit perfectly.
Do the hole line up perfectly with the Upper and lower plates?
trickd122 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-11-2008, 02:55 PM   #27926
Tech Regular
 
Applesauce's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Boynton Beach, FL
Posts: 419
Trader Rating: 14 (100%+)
Default

I have seen some of the guys at the track spraying their tires with motor spray before putting traction compound on. What is the purpose of this?
Applesauce is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-11-2008, 03:34 PM   #27927
Tech Champion
 
Matt Howard's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Abilene TX
Posts: 5,952
Trader Rating: 6 (100%+)
Default

if you run on a high bite track your foam tires can get "gummy" and make the car inconsistant/twitchy. The motor spray will clean all the goop off the tires.
__________________
Official member of The Guild of Calamitous Intent and proud supporter of Conjectural Technologies.
Serpent S411 LE kit #192
RCTech #361
Matt Howard is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-11-2008, 06:13 PM   #27928
Tech Champion
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Hawaii, USA
Posts: 7,157
Default

Ride height forumula

Hey guys...something I threw together for myself that I thought you guys might find usefull is a ride height formula to get me close to my desired ride height with the IRS front arms and the IRS rear ride height adapters. The front end formula should work for anyone using the IRS front arms and the rear you will need to measure for yourself as the position of the ride height adapters are at different heights for different companies. Using this I can get really close to my desired ride height on the first try, with a lot less fuss.

First I measured from the bottom of my chassis to the center of the front axle and came out right at 12mm. Next I measured from the bottom of the rear pod to the center of the 0 ride height adapter and came up with 20.4mm. I put them into an excel spreadsheet using these simple formulas:

Front:
(Tire Diameter/2)-(ride height adapter+12) = ride height

Rear:
(Tire Diameter/2)-(20.4-ride height adapter) = ride height

Now in mine I use the BMI front suspension spacers for the ride height adapter so the size of the ride height adapters is easily a known size. In the rear the IRS ride height adapters are labled in .5mm increments down from 0. Please note you will need to put in all your values in milimeters.

Hope this helps!

Last edited by InspGadgt; 01-11-2008 at 10:03 PM.
InspGadgt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-11-2008, 11:44 PM   #27929
Tech Addict
 
Tron 101's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Saskatoon, Canada
Posts: 602
Trader Rating: 23 (96%+)
Default shock/ant mount

Hi, Does anyone know where to get the type of shock/antenna mount that the old Trinity Switchblade use. I tried the CRC one with the taller antenna mount and the 3 cylinders but the mount is too long, not to mention tall, and my servo will not sit right.
The mount is just a piece of plastic, ovalish shape and only has two hole one for the antenna and one for the pivot ball for the shock. I have tried to find one eberywhere and mine is getting stripped beyond repair. I really need on or I may not be able to run an antenna anymore.
LIFE SUCKS.
Any help would be great!! Just direct me to as many sites as possible.
Thanks
PEACE.
Tron 101 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-12-2008, 01:25 PM   #27930
Tech Master
 
wingman2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Tewkesbury, UK via Plymouth, UK.
Posts: 1,259
Default

Yes mate, they sure did. Obviously , they are NOT the new ones from the gen-x cars, you want the older ones from the carpet knife or t fource cars. They will fit no prob.
wingman2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
New to the forum mig rod Electric Off-Road 1 01-05-2008 05:23 PM
hi i need help and im new to the forum racer4 Rookie Zone 4 01-21-2007 02:37 PM
Why is this forum listed under the On Road Forum? sport10 Onroad Nitro Engine Zone 0 01-11-2007 08:06 AM
Forum Changes... futureal Wisconsin & Illinois Racing 3 10-28-2002 09:26 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 2 (1 members and 1 guests)
oldnwise
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 05:39 AM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net

SEO by vBSEO 3.5.0