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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 01-08-2008, 12:39 PM   #27901
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trickd122 View Post
I have a AE 12l4 no manual. I have a few questions.
1. Is there a specific measurement for the center shock.
2.I have all stock stuff, I's running the new JACO PRISMS do I have to get the IRS lowered POD plates and is IRS the only one selling these?
3.What's the fastest 19turn motor (over the counter) available for a long track.
4. I see guys taking motor temps at the track? I understand why however what's considered a "too hot" number?

Thanks
Go here....
http://aedownloads.com/downloads/man...2l4_manual.pdf

Get manual.......
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Old 01-08-2008, 01:42 PM   #27902
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Does anyone know of an online shop in the U.S. that sells the Kyosho 1/12 GP SPADA 09 4WD RACING CAR?




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Old 01-08-2008, 03:15 PM   #27903
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Heck, I'd be tickled just to get one of those bodies. Those look sharp.
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Old 01-08-2008, 04:59 PM   #27904
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RC mushroom sells them for $249.99. Not too bad. I just wish they would release these in the states. I know they would be a hit. 1/8 scale action at a WAYYY cheaper price. I would get one, it's just I don't think the parts support would be there. Though I do work in a machine shop part time, and could make CF parts if I had to...
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Old 01-08-2008, 05:56 PM   #27905
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scottrik View Post
FIRST...do yourself an enormous favor. Ditch the HiTech servo and get a real one. I've only seen and heard horror stories about their centering (or lack thereof). That is a HUGE problem in 1/12. If you get it your experience will be forever tainted. There are SO many really good 1/12 servos out there at a range of really good prices. I'm pretty sure you can find new Futaba 9650 digital (about which I've only heard good things) for $50-60 new.

Second, not familiar with "steering balance" but are your epa's adjusted correctly. Are you using the servo saver holes closest to the saver/servo mounting screw (shortest possible arm) and/or running a steering block with more than one ball stud hole and you've chosen the hole furthest from the kingpin, or...
On the 12L4 kit comes a Kimbrough servo saver that has only outside holes and one center hole don't understand what you mean by shortest possible arm. The kit also makes you cut off the outer hole on the steering block because when you mount wheels on the axle the steering block arm would rub against the inside of the wheel if left on. EPA is steering balance. Can you change the EPA to go more than 100% on the helios? What about JR DS8411? I have never seen a servo not have enough throw. Dual rate is maxed and trim is centered.
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Old 01-08-2008, 06:06 PM   #27906
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bubonic-X View Post
On the 12L4 kit comes a Kimbrough servo saver that has only outside holes and one center hole don't understand what you mean by shortest possible arm. The kit also makes you cut off the outer hole on the steering block because when you mount wheels on the axle the steering block arm would rub against the inside of the wheel if left on. EPA is steering balance. Can you change the EPA to go more than 100% on the helios? What about JR DS8411? I have never seen a servo not have enough throw. Dual rate is maxed and trim is centered.
Sounds like you're in the right holes then.
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Old 01-08-2008, 06:11 PM   #27907
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bubonic-X View Post
On the 12L4 kit comes a Kimbrough servo saver that has only outside holes and one center hole don't understand what you mean by shortest possible arm. The kit also makes you cut off the outer hole on the steering block because when you mount wheels on the axle the steering block arm would rub against the inside of the wheel if left on. EPA is steering balance. Can you change the EPA to go more than 100% on the helios? What about JR DS8411? I have never seen a servo not have enough throw. Dual rate is maxed and trim is centered.
Sounds like you're in the right holes then.

As far as servo, I can't say for sure about the 8411 other than it's bigger than the 1/12 servos I'm familiar with and more expensive to boot.

Think Futaba 9650 digital (bargain leader right now), KO 949 digital (my personal choice, but over $100), JR 3650 digital or JR 3550 analog. Unless you WANT to re-invent the wheel in which case pick whatever strikes your fancy.
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Old 01-08-2008, 06:17 PM   #27908
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Default better shock

Is ther a better center shock for the AE12L4?
anyone tried the cyclone12 front end yet?
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Old 01-08-2008, 08:44 PM   #27909
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Is ther a better center shock for the AE12L4?
anyone tried the cyclone12 front end yet?


A friend of mine has the cyclone 12 center shock in his cyclone 12 and his other car and he loves them. You may want to give it a try.
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Old 01-09-2008, 12:27 AM   #27910
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The Cyclone 12 shock is the real deal I went through at least 4 other manufactures shocks before Crashby showed me the Cyclone 12. I won't be using anything else until the other manufacturer's catch up to the HB.
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Old 01-09-2008, 12:29 AM   #27911
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Of course the problem is Crashby cornered the market on the parts it takes to build these.
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Old 01-09-2008, 07:54 AM   #27912
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Of course the problem is Crashby cornered the market on the parts it takes to build these.

I found the parts on Stormers website, great prices!!!!!
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Old 01-09-2008, 11:13 AM   #27913
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Ok have a project going on that I've wanted to try for a bit (just for fun). I have the Hara Hammer conversion and finishing it up. Few things I've noticed. The chassis seems very thin and has a lot of cut outs giving the car some twist. I'm assuming the car was originally designed for asphalt (at least my kit) and not very good for carpet? Next the is two white rectangle clamps that go around 2 silver aluminum rectangle posts that are centered in large springs. The white plastic pieces have 2 screws that adjust (?) the tension of the clamping around the silver rectangle posts. Even with the screws backed out all the way, it seems they grab quite a bit, is this common and do I leave it that way or is some adjustment/work needed to be done. Since there is no other noticeable side dampening I'm assuming that is what they are for, but seems like an odd way to dampen it. Looks like the rear pod just free floats side to side with this design? Any help with the car would be great.
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Old 01-09-2008, 12:41 PM   #27914
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Those square things act like the links in a link style car like the CRC, SM, Darkside, ect ect. They should move as freely as possible so it's likely you'll have to do some tweaking to get them working right. You should have either damper disks or damper tubes to adjust dampening. I believe the Hara came setup to use either.
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Old 01-09-2008, 12:43 PM   #27915
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The 2 plastic clamps need to be just right with tension. Too much and they bind on the posts, too little and the whole back end flaps about. What I did was put a couple of very small washers in the gap to do the screw up tight but not clamp down too much on the post. This took a little trial and error but it worked in the end. Once you have made those up, you'll notice the cross brace has a couple of holes that are above the springs on the posts, they are for your tweek screws. You should also have an upper plate similar to the associated 12L4 top plate. Large washers go either side to work with the springs on the posts to give your side to side dampening. The front springs from the older Corally 12th cars also fit the posts so that will give you differant tuning options if you wish. In the end, I changed the washer type dampening to Corally damper tubes although they had to be cut down a little to fit. Hope that helps a little.....Chris.
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