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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 01-07-2008, 10:32 AM   #27886
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Quote:
Originally Posted by protc3 View Post
Hey buddy,

I have tried alot of 19 turn motors and KD's always seem to be the fastest. I run F brushes with red springs + and -. XXX work well too but you dont want to spring them as hard because it will beat down the comm. I usually put a verticle 1mm cut in xxx brushes and run green/green. The verticle cut allows you to run the lighter spring without arcing. I run on asphalt and usually roll my car out at 2.05-2.1 with a kd and on carpet i go about a 1.9. It seems that with the kd, it likes alot of gear but you need to drive it smooth to keep it from heating up. If i gear it low to keep it cool, I get my ass handed to me so i just concentrate on driving smooth lines and keep the roll out about a 1.9 on carpet. I hope this helps
Thanks for aall thee tips. Ran Komodo with F-brushes with cavity in face on both, and red+, green - seemed to work the best, but more trials on the way. Tried Checkpoint too and was dog even with handwound arm. I think it was sprung too heavy, but only tried it once and went back to Komodo. Friend was running e-brushes and his car showed good speed. We ran with Brushless 10.5 guys too and looked pretty similar in speed. More stuff soon, thanks again.
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Old 01-07-2008, 12:18 PM   #27887
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wingman2 View Post
Hi Tim, don't know if it the12l4 chassis is a direct replacement for the Yokomo because I think the holes for the crossbrace may be in a differant place on both chassis's. The front and rear ends should fit with no probs but make sure you check where the holes are for the chassis cross brace. All the best, Chris.
You are absolutely correct. I forgot about the cross brace. So you would need the Yok cross brace as well but I think everything else is a direct fit.
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Old 01-07-2008, 01:49 PM   #27888
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You may get away with drilling the 2 holes for the stand offs towards the outer edge of the chassis in a regular 12l4 crossbrace. If you use the yokomo crossbrace, you would have to file off all the cell hold down bits they have on it.
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Old 01-07-2008, 02:47 PM   #27889
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Originally Posted by Crashby View Post
You are absolutely correct. I forgot about the cross brace. So you would need the Yok cross brace as well but I think everything else is a direct fit.
I just checked an L4 rear cross brace on my YRX12WE and the hole spacing does not match, the width is narrower on the L4 and the center screw does not line up. You would have to use the cross brace for the Yokomo and cut off the cell tabs as has been mentioned.

The other part that will not fit is the front suspension cross brace, the front track and therefore the cross brace is narrower on the Yokomo
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Old 01-07-2008, 03:42 PM   #27890
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So I can just drill new holes?
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Old 01-07-2008, 03:46 PM   #27891
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And I am putting a yokomo chassis on a ae 12l4

thanks for the help guys
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Old 01-07-2008, 06:55 PM   #27892
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I have a helios radio and setting up my 12L4 with a hitech servo hs-225mg...and when I go into steering balance it goes all the way to 100% but it still needs more throw....The stops on the knuckles are not close to hitting or even touching for that matter..Anybody got any ideas
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Old 01-07-2008, 07:04 PM   #27893
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Originally Posted by Bubonic-X View Post
I have a helios radio and setting up my 12L4 with a hitech servo hs-225mg...and when I go into steering balance it goes all the way to 100% but it still needs more throw....The stops on the knuckles are not close to hitting or even touching for that matter..Anybody got any ideas
FIRST...do yourself an enormous favor. Ditch the HiTech servo and get a real one. I've only seen and heard horror stories about their centering (or lack thereof). That is a HUGE problem in 1/12. If you get it your experience will be forever tainted. There are SO many really good 1/12 servos out there at a range of really good prices. I'm pretty sure you can find new Futaba 9650 digital (about which I've only heard good things) for $50-60 new.

Second, not familiar with "steering balance" but are your epa's adjusted correctly. Are you using the servo saver holes closest to the saver/servo mounting screw (shortest possible arm) and/or running a steering block with more than one ball stud hole and you've chosen the hole furthest from the kingpin, or...
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Old 01-07-2008, 07:36 PM   #27894
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max your end point adjustments, reset your trims, set your dual rate to 100%

then you can begin to mount the saver to the horn.
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Old 01-07-2008, 09:56 PM   #27895
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hitech in 1/12 is death
not to bash but its so true.
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Old 01-07-2008, 10:37 PM   #27896
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So I can just drill new holes?
The holes are not far off enough that you can drill new ones. You would have to enlarge or elongate the existing ones in the L4 brace, which would make it less effective. I would use the Yokomo brace, or just make a new one
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Old 01-08-2008, 03:08 AM   #27897
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The holes are not far off enough that you can drill new ones. You would have to enlarge or elongate the existing ones in the L4 brace, which would make it less effective. I would use the Yokomo brace, or just make a new one
I'd rather just use the tube brace and sand it smaller or use the CRC brace and use less shims or o-rings. That would be much easier.
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Old 01-08-2008, 10:45 AM   #27898
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Default 12l4

I have a AE 12l4 no manual. I have a few questions.
1. Is there a specific measurement for the center shock.
2.I have all stock stuff, I's running the new JACO PRISMS do I have to get the IRS lowered POD plates and is IRS the only one selling these?
3.What's the fastest 19turn motor (over the counter) available for a long track.
4. I see guys taking motor temps at the track? I understand why however what's considered a "too hot" number?

Thanks
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Old 01-08-2008, 12:00 PM   #27899
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Can droop be adjusted on this car
Finally When will the CYCLONE12 be available?
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Old 01-08-2008, 12:03 PM   #27900
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Can droop be adjusted on this car
Finally When will the CYCLONE12 be available?
Droop is adjusted on the front end by the amount of shims on the kingpin. On the rear it's adjusted by changing the length of the center shock.

The cyclone 12 is available right now at Stormer

https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/c...ns&pn=HOT61600
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