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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!


BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)


Enneti (Xceed)

As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.


If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick

  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020

  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


Reflex Racing/RSD:


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Old 04-14-2003, 09:36 AM   #2776
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Door to door.
TLR, Spektrum, Tekin, SMC, MO-GRIP, www.factory-rc.com https://www.shapeways.com/shops/MPP
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Old 04-14-2003, 09:44 AM   #2777
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cracker - i think you answered your own question. treat it like a chess game. you take advantage of your opponents mistakes.....but also pay attention during practice and pick out the "passing zones" and work on using those areas to your advantage. and NEVER look behind you, you will lose site of your objective. good luck.........i haven't said it in a while "12th scale RULES". hehe
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Old 04-14-2003, 11:20 AM   #2778
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Hey guys,

Please e-mail me if your looking for a Speedmerchant Rev.3 kit and parts. I read all the time that kits are hard to come by so I am trying to make sure that everyone who wants one on RCTech can get one.

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Old 04-14-2003, 12:51 PM   #2779
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It can take up to a whole race to figure out how to pass someone, normally if they are that close to you it will take at least a few laps (unless the guy just crashes or leaves a huge gap).

Normally the suggested method is to wait, however if you need to make up ground and you are in the back of the pack, its not really an option. So here are several real options:

-"Hip Check": not just for hockey! i have seen this done alot, and it has been done to me, and i have done it as well. It takes a good deal of skill to actually pull off well. If you can get on the inside and be as close to side to side as possible, hold your line or give them a slight (Very slight) tap which is designed not to take them out or hurt them, just to keep you from losing any time, and adjusting there line.

-if its slow lap traffic, and they dont move after a lap (and they are really holding you up, then it is (at least in my book) acceptable to give them a nudge (but use the "chrome horn" very gently), its tough to do in 12th scale, but possible, just make sure (as with all times you every make contact) to STAY ON THE POWER! or else you WILL crash out. sorta like a "bristol bump" in nascar (since at bristol its a tight small one line race track, and to pass you need to bump the guy, and loosen him up to pass)

but dont try any of these unless you know the guy, and know it wont really piss him off. they are kinda cheap, but its amazing how many guys do them (and they do it descriptly), just dont make it obvious.
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Old 04-14-2003, 02:01 PM   #2780
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Ray, how much can I get a Rev3 main chassis from you for?
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Old 04-14-2003, 06:19 PM   #2781
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Old 04-14-2003, 07:29 PM   #2782
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Hey Cracker....whaddya mean how do you pass? You school us every Tuesday on how to pass cleanly!

I'll be back for more battles hopefully soon...my wife and I had a new rc racer a few weeks ago, so racing is taking a back seat for a bit.

I did, however, buy a new L3 (the knife is getting shelfed for a while) so I'll have to get the hot setup from you k?
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Old 04-14-2003, 07:30 PM   #2783
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Default Re: How to pass

Originally posted by Cracker78
I have a somewhat vague and probably naive question... how does one pass when racing 1/12th scales? I am sure this occurs at all levels, but for me, it shows up more often with these lil 4cell stockers (probably cause everyone is very close to the same speed) The problem is if I am 0.1 or 0.2 seconds per lap faster than the guy ahead of me, how do I get around him? There is not enough hp to go around him on the outside, and as long as he holds his line, there is most likely no room on the inside. What do you people do in this situtation? I know there is no "correct" answer, I am just looking for opinions because right now I just sit back and wait for the guy in front to make a mistake... all the while the rest of the pack is catching up.
Not naive in any way...

OK, I don't have a 1/12 scale car (wish I did), but whenever I run into someone that I just can't quite seem to pass because of a defensive line that doesn't allow me to pass them using pure HP, the best thing I think, is to start stepping up the heat. This could be tailing him really close in some of the corner entry points and changing lines lap to lap. Most guys will be phased by this and you can usually squeek by using a variety of techniques you are still probably very used to using by now.
If you just can't get his lines to change or find a proper line around, then it might be best to try the "wheel to wheel" bump pass (like stromperson pointed out). If you think a ''wheel to wheel'' pass will be your best bet, then you should do it in a long, slow, tight corner with a relatively fast exit speed. This slow corner will allow the other person to see what is going to take place and prepare as well as make it easier for you to setup. If you are moving about 1/2 an mph faster than the other guy, then you'll end up moving him only six inches and he won't complain if you get the cars nice and squared up. His line won't change dramatically and all he can really say is 'he passed me'. I've never seen a person complain about this when done right.
Personally, one of the worst things to do is just sit back and wait. The quicker you figure out where you can pass the person you're behind, the better, so try all the stuff that you can pull off without ending up in the boards.

(from the sound of it, it seems you really didn't need too much help after all).

Last edited by Im2lazy; 04-14-2003 at 07:38 PM.
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Old 04-15-2003, 09:43 AM   #2784
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I am just trying to get as good as you so you have some competition when you get back Congrats on the new rc racer! Glad to hear you shelved the Knife and got an L3, you will make a good role model for your lil one No prob on the setup, just drop by my pit and I will fill you in.

Im2Lazy, Stormperson & TheBarber:
Thanks for the replies! It's great to see everyones ideas and opinions. You all have given me some things to think about next time I am at the track. Hopefully I have the skills to put them to good use
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Old 04-15-2003, 10:57 AM   #2785
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Default reciever pack wiring

The reciever pack plugs into the battery slot on the reciever. You can actually plug it into any channel on the reciever and it will power the system. Most guys install an inline switch on the reciever pack, otherwise you have to unplug it to turn the car off. If your reciever only has three plug-ins and you are using a personal transponder you will need to make a Y-connecter to plug it in along with the reciever pack. ALSO: never turn on the speed control switch, use only the reciever pack to turn the car on.
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Old 04-15-2003, 05:05 PM   #2786
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The reciever pack, Some Radio's recomend cutting or pulling the wire out of the plug from the ESC. You could have power coming from both causing a bunch of problems. The switch staying off is a good idea, I have never tried it. Read your Radio manual or Speed control manual, and see what it says about seperat Rx pack or not using BEC.
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Old 04-15-2003, 05:14 PM   #2787
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Cool Glitching

I hate it! I usually can find the problem, but on my capet knife, once the car is about 200 feet away, it does what ever it wants. I tried a fresh battery, it didn't help, I turned the stock futaba reciever on its end so the antenna wire heads straight up, I tried a different transmitter. NO power wires are touching the chasis, the antenna does not run by any other wires since I turned the radio on its end. These things help, but it gets out of range much closer than my others. I didn't even know I had this problem until I tried it in the road getting ready for parking lot racing this summer.

As usual it seems worse when I get on the throttle.

YES it is AM, but I have always used AM with no problems.

Any ideas? Am I asking too much?

David Root
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Old 04-15-2003, 05:32 PM   #2788
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200 ft sure is pretty darn far away...i think you are asking a bit much from your system.
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Old 04-15-2003, 05:50 PM   #2789
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You might want to switch to a different channel and see if that helps.
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Old 04-15-2003, 06:51 PM   #2790
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Thanks, I will try a different set of crystals. My gas cars go much further.

I don't know how far it is really supposed to go. Does any one?

I have always been able to find the problem, maybe its the voltage being lower couse its 4 cells. This would explain why it does it when I get on it. Voltage drops even more. Maybe I need one of those reciever packs. I will try one from my gas trucks and see if it helps. I had a 13 X2 in it when this was happening, I will put the stock back in it and try it that way too.

Thanks again for helping me think.

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