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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 01-04-2008, 08:00 PM   #27856
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Ok need some help with 19t since it isn't a class I run very often. My questions are specifically for Peak Dynasty and Komodo. Brushes and springs (and any brush cutting), and gearing with 1.7" rears (or rollout). Any personal experience regarding these motors would be great too.
19T is my FAVORITE class. I run Komodos exclusively...even the guys here who "went Money" have all come back to the Komodo.

They REALLY like F-Brushes, I've seen purple-purple and purple-green. A couple guys have had good results with XXX brushes, I've got several pairs and keep meaning to try though my understanding is they reduce comm life.

I roll-out, generally, either side of 45mm depending on how technical our layout is. I've gone as low as 42mm on a real stop-n-go layout. Our straight is ALWAYS 65' board to board. I've explained the CRAP out of calculating roll-out so I'll leave the math to you.
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Old 01-05-2008, 01:01 AM   #27857
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we need a 12th scale "frequently asked questions" section:
- what is rollout?
- What rollout should I use or a Komodo Dragon?
- What does what setup change do?
Seems to me these questions are really frequently asked and answered.
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Old 01-05-2008, 01:23 AM   #27858
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Originally Posted by Scottrik View Post
19T is my FAVORITE class. I run Komodos exclusively...even the guys here who "went Money" have all come back to the Komodo.

They REALLY like F-Brushes, I've seen purple-purple and purple-green. A couple guys have had good results with XXX brushes, I've got several pairs and keep meaning to try though my understanding is they reduce comm life.

I roll-out, generally, either side of 45mm depending on how technical our layout is. I've gone as low as 42mm on a real stop-n-go layout. Our straight is ALWAYS 65' board to board. I've explained the CRAP out of calculating roll-out so I'll leave the math to you.
Thanks that is what I was looking for. Interesting you mention as stiff as purple all around where I would have thought green or at most red. Will give it a try.
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Old 01-05-2008, 01:33 AM   #27859
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Originally Posted by Pro ten Holland View Post
we need a 12th scale "frequently asked questions" section:
- what is rollout?
- What rollout should I use or a Komodo Dragon?
- What does what setup change do?
Seems to me these questions are really frequently asked and answered.
Not sure if that was directed at my questions, but just in case let me elaborate:
I know what rollout is so I asked for answers in either gearing (knowing my tire diameter) or rollout, but 19t is much different than stock or mod and if you hadn't noticed the Peak Dynasty isn't talked about much. I'm familiar with the motors in sedans, but in 1/12th scale I'm sure it is much different and they may have totally different characteristics in these cars.
"What does setup change do?"- Well I didn't ask that, but every car is different just like how a CRC Gen X has different front springs than a 3.2, so I think you'll always be asked those questions and you'll never have the same answer since the variables with traction, weight, etc. will always change and no one knows all the answers (that's why designs in cars always have different concepts). Hmm... and last I checked there were tons of varying opions about t-plate vs. link cars.

So the questions will always be asked and will produce all sorts of answers. But, if these questions are redundant, answer the rest of mine- Brush cuts or shapes including cavities? Or full face? Komodo vs. Dynasty and why? What about Putnam brushes or 767, or 4499?
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Old 01-05-2008, 04:38 AM   #27860
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Hey buddy,

I have tried alot of 19 turn motors and KD's always seem to be the fastest. I run F brushes with red springs + and -. XXX work well too but you dont want to spring them as hard because it will beat down the comm. I usually put a verticle 1mm cut in xxx brushes and run green/green. The verticle cut allows you to run the lighter spring without arcing. I run on asphalt and usually roll my car out at 2.05-2.1 with a kd and on carpet i go about a 1.9. It seems that with the kd, it likes alot of gear but you need to drive it smooth to keep it from heating up. If i gear it low to keep it cool, I get my ass handed to me so i just concentrate on driving smooth lines and keep the roll out about a 1.9 on carpet. I hope this helps
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Old 01-05-2008, 04:39 AM   #27861
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all those brushes work real good. Putnams beat up the comm pretty bad but work good. F's are the best i have run but im sure you know how they go, some are good and some batches flat out suck
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Old 01-05-2008, 04:42 AM   #27862
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however,do save some agrivation. I check the brushes when i get f's to see if i should use them. I sacrifice one. Take a pair of pliars and squeeze one till it breaks. It it breaks into large shards,they are good and they are hard. If they turn to dust or very fine shards,they are soft and will not be good.
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Old 01-05-2008, 09:25 AM   #27863
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Thanks. That helps a lot. Looks like 19t will be a popular class at our club.
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Old 01-05-2008, 10:07 AM   #27864
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another brush you guys might want to look at is the Orion Katana. i havent had the chance to run them yet but after playing with some motors on the turbo 30 and trying differnet brushes they seem a very good option
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Old 01-05-2008, 10:58 AM   #27865
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Wow, I got to work for a couple of days after the holidays and I miss out on the diff conversations. Thanks to everyone and especially Scottrik for the fill in explinations.

The Delrin spacer was desinged to have some "crush" to it to act as the spring. The lip on the spacer was designed to center the spacer on the outter lip of the hub bearing but not be too deep that it interferes with the shield. If it does interfere, it's been crushed pretty hard at one point, but can be easily fixed by "lightly" sanding some of the lip down. You don't want this spacer to touch the 1/4" axle as it would cause drag.

If anyone has problems with their diff thrust kit, please contact me.

I respect anyone that is trying to make their racing effort less expensive and reach their desired goals. The thrust kits I sell are for the guys who want to fix the diff and move on. And just like any tuning item, there are probably 98% who have tried the thrust kit, wont take it out. The other 2% want to have the super free but short lived diff that look for the tiny bit more turn in.

Another fun fact: it takes roughly 3 years to wear out the average thrust kit. That's racing 19t or mod, once a week for 6 months over the course of 3 years. Average life span of a conventional hub bearing could be 2 race days. That would be roughly 36 hub bearings at $5 each or $180 worth hub bearings over the course of 3 years. That's probably fun math, but it's a comparable.

As far as diff balls, at some point, I have used 'em all. I personally like carbides and fill in all the holes. I have run into many guys who build better diff's then I do because they spend the time. I just rip a set of D rings out of the bag, install a set of carbides, put a tiny dap of Asc grease on each ball, a drop of oil on the thrust (which I am still not sure if it's necessary) and tighten up till it hurts your thumb to slip the spur gear. If it squeaks on the track, tighten it just a little more. Done.

I don't even take spare rings or ball with to the track any more.

Seriously, any trouble with my diff kits, don't hesitate to contact me.

Brian
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Old 01-05-2008, 11:40 AM   #27866
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Brian,

I use a dab of associated "black grease" on the thrust bearings..works a treat! Much better than diff lube...
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Old 01-05-2008, 12:42 PM   #27867
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Originally Posted by Slapmaster6000 View Post
Wow, I got to work for a couple of days after the holidays and I miss out on the diff conversations. Thanks to everyone and especially Scottrik for the fill in explinations.

The Delrin spacer was desinged to have some "crush" to it to act as the spring. The lip on the spacer was designed to center the spacer on the outter lip of the hub bearing but not be too deep that it interferes with the shield. If it does interfere, it's been crushed pretty hard at one point, but can be easily fixed by "lightly" sanding some of the lip down. You don't want this spacer to touch the 1/4" axle as it would cause drag.

If anyone has problems with their diff thrust kit, please contact me.

I respect anyone that is trying to make their racing effort less expensive and reach their desired goals. The thrust kits I sell are for the guys who want to fix the diff and move on. And just like any tuning item, there are probably 98% who have tried the thrust kit, wont take it out. The other 2% want to have the super free but short lived diff that look for the tiny bit more turn in.

Another fun fact: it takes roughly 3 years to wear out the average thrust kit. That's racing 19t or mod, once a week for 6 months over the course of 3 years. Average life span of a conventional hub bearing could be 2 race days. That would be roughly 36 hub bearings at $5 each or $180 worth hub bearings over the course of 3 years. That's probably fun math, but it's a comparable.

As far as diff balls, at some point, I have used 'em all. I personally like carbides and fill in all the holes. I have run into many guys who build better diff's then I do because they spend the time. I just rip a set of D rings out of the bag, install a set of carbides, put a tiny dap of Asc grease on each ball, a drop of oil on the thrust (which I am still not sure if it's necessary) and tighten up till it hurts your thumb to slip the spur gear. If it squeaks on the track, tighten it just a little more. Done.

I don't even take spare rings or ball with to the track any more.

Seriously, any trouble with my diff kits, don't hesitate to contact me.

Brian
Which Associated grease do you use? The black label or red label stuff?
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Old 01-05-2008, 02:28 PM   #27868
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I have always used a larger amounto of associated black grease on the thrust bearing, and unlike diff balls more is better than less. The thrust bearing takes a huge load and if you sandwich black grease on both sides it will prolong its life. I have done this with all my TCs and 1/12 scales and my diffs are always silky smooth when tightened excessively.
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Old 01-05-2008, 04:23 PM   #27869
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Originally Posted by Slapmaster6000 View Post
Seriously, any trouble with my diff kits, don't hesitate to contact me.

Brian
Amen.
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Old 01-06-2008, 02:54 AM   #27870
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Quote:
Originally Posted by edseb View Post
Not sure if that was directed at my questions, but just in case let me elaborate:
I know what rollout is so I asked for answers in either gearing (knowing my tire diameter) or rollout, but 19t is much different than stock or mod and if you hadn't noticed the Peak Dynasty isn't talked about much. I'm familiar with the motors in sedans, but in 1/12th scale I'm sure it is much different and they may have totally different characteristics in these cars.
"What does setup change do?"- Well I didn't ask that, but every car is different just like how a CRC Gen X has different front springs than a 3.2, so I think you'll always be asked those questions and you'll never have the same answer since the variables with traction, weight, etc. will always change and no one knows all the answers (that's why designs in cars always have different concepts). Hmm... and last I checked there were tons of varying opions about t-plate vs. link cars.

So the questions will always be asked and will produce all sorts of answers. But, if these questions are redundant, answer the rest of mine- Brush cuts or shapes including cavities? Or full face? Komodo vs. Dynasty and why? What about Putnam brushes or 767, or 4499?

I was not trying to offend you or anyone else. It's just that I see the same questions running over this thread again and again. Most people that start with 12th scale seem to have the same questions.
I would think it would be beneficial for newcomers to have sheet or so to look up the starting rollout for all popular motors compared to track size. What spings and brushes work best with what motor etc.

Something like Richard Chang's excellent 12th scle setup sheet.

Also a brief and correct explenation of rollout like Scottrick did last week could be posted up there.

Could that be done on RCtech or do we need a seperate website for this?
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