R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

    Hide Wikipost
Old 10-28-2016, 12:43 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: 1/12 forum
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: fenton06
This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

Print Wikipost

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 01-04-2008, 04:07 AM   #27841
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 485
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by oze View Post
What is the role of the plastic spacer?
As describe on upper posts by Quante and Scottrik, the spacer is used to apply an axial load to increase or release some pressure with the nut on the differential, to tighten or loosen it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by oze View Post
Why is it better from plastic vs metal?
I did use plastic because first that was I have easier access, it's easier to machine and, in case of something move in the assembly, that would avoid some sparks made by a metal-to-metal contact. Last point, Nylon get some interesting friction properties.

Quote:
Originally Posted by oze View Post
What is the role of the lip on the spacer?
If you click the pictures, you'll get some details. The lip helps to make some clearance with the bearing. In fact, if the lip wasn't there, the spacer will took both bearing's rings. As the internal diameter of the spacer is slightly larger than the axle diameter, the spacer is fairly well positioned and the lip on the outer diameter give space to a avoid contact with the inner bearing's ring.

Hope that well explained!
Arn0 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-04-2008, 05:01 AM   #27842
oze
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Budapest, Hungary
Posts: 142
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Arn0 View Post
As describe on upper posts by Quante and Scottrik, the spacer is used to apply an axial load to increase or release some pressure with the nut on the differential, to tighten or loosen it.
So, why do you need the spacer? Why can't you just put the thrust bearing on the bearing directly? The thrust bearing itself is balls between two spacers


Quote:
Originally Posted by Arn0 View Post
I did use plastic because first that was I have easier access, it's easier to machine and, in case of something move in the assembly, that would avoid some sparks made by a metal-to-metal contact. Last point, Nylon get some interesting friction properties.
Sparks by a metal-to-metal contact: are you joking?
Yes, Nylon has got some interesting friction properties, but why is that important here?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Arn0 View Post
If you click the pictures, you'll get some details. The lip helps to make some clearance with the bearing. In fact, if the lip wasn't there, the spacer will took both bearing's rings. As the internal diameter of the spacer is slightly larger than the axle diameter, the spacer is fairly well positioned and the lip on the outer diameter give space to a avoid contact with the inner bearing's ring.
Thanks, this last bit is clear, in fact this would explain the role of the spacer, however this makes unclear to me why you made the outer diameter of the spacer larger (10,5 mm).

I really want to understand this, this is why I am asking.
oze is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-04-2008, 06:03 AM   #27843
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 485
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by oze View Post
So, why do you need the spacer? Why can't you just put the thrust bearing on the bearing directly? The thrust bearing itself is balls between two spacers
You got the point following the link.
In the short way, the spacer is a must use because it won't fit directly to the shaft. The shaft diameter is 1/4inch (6.35mm) and the inner thrust bearing is 4mm diameter so the thrust bearing is located on the axle screw and can't go further.


Quote:
Originally Posted by oze View Post
Sparks by a metal-to-metal contact: are you joking?
Yes, Nylon has got some interesting friction properties, but why is that important here?
It's a kind of joke. In this case, sparks won't appears but who know. Basicaly, one metallic part moving relatively to another metallic is not the greatest adjustment, especially when both are iron or aluminum made, at one moment or another, depending on speed, pressure ... those to parts will solder one with the other. But as said, I use plastic in first instance because it's easier to machine and that was the material I had access. In aluminum, that will do the job too.

Quote:
Originally Posted by oze View Post
Thanks, this last bit is clear, in fact this would explain the role of the spacer, however this makes unclear to me why you made the outer diameter of the spacer larger (10,5 mm).

I really want to understand this, this is why I am asking.
I made the spacer 10.5mm to fit correctly with the outer ball bearing ring. Smaller it would have been in contact with the ball bearing shield. So I make myself sure the lip will touch this outer ring.
If you have a vernier and that sort of bearing, check the outer diameter of the ball bearing. The bigger diameter is around 10.5mm and the smaller diameter of the outer ring is around 9.5mm (recalling data). The lip is about 1mm thick so it touch fully the outer ring.
Arn0 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-04-2008, 06:08 AM   #27844
Tech Champion
 
Scottrik's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Billings, MT
Posts: 6,123
Trader Rating: 239 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by oze View Post
What is the role of the plastic spacer? Why is it better from plastic vs metal? What is the role of the lip on the spacer?
The "spacer" this fellow made and the "spacer" in the SlapMaster kit use that lip to pick up the outer race area of the bearing rather than the inner race like the current collars from just about all the axle manufacturers (AE, CRC, IRS, etc) do. Years ago cars used to come with thrust bearings as part of the axle assembly (remember the big ol' blue cage Associated ones?) but in what I can only guess is an effort to reduce parts count they went to these aluminum collars that pick up the inside race. That way the diff still spins relatively freely but by picking up the inside race it means that ANY load is transmitted sideways through that outer hub bearing. The outer hub bearing is supported from the inside at the outer race by the hub itself. By having th collar pick up the inner race it means that the pre-tension on the diff creates a constant side-load and any side impacts with barriers create comparatively massive spike loads...all into a bearing that is absolutely not designed to accept side loads. This leads to frequent bearing failure here which is, generally, why/when diffs start to feel "notchy".

By picking up the outer race loads are transmitted only through that outer shell of the bearing. It is still supported on the outside by the hub but loads are applied to the outside as well.

Why plastic? Well, to be effective it needs to be from certain families of plastic. The reason SlapMaster uses delrin is that it has somewhat elastic properties meaning it can, to a limited degree, serve as a spring. Think of the Belleville washer that is in the diffs now (and back in the days of ol' blue from AE)...it serves as a spring and in doing so creates a slightly larger "sweet spot" of adjustment. Without a spring or springing medium you really have no "range" of adjustment. It goes from not tight enough to too tight in an instant...if you're lucky you can hit that exact (and it has to be exact) spot where it is just right.
__________________
Congressmen should wear uniforms like NASCAR drivers so we can identify their corporate sponsors.

THE REVOLUTION WILL NOT BE TELEVISED -Gil Scott-Heron (1949-2011)
Scottrik is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-04-2008, 06:14 AM   #27845
Tech Champion
 
Scottrik's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Billings, MT
Posts: 6,123
Trader Rating: 239 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by oze View Post
So, why do you need the spacer? Why can't you just put the thrust bearing on the bearing directly? The thrust bearing itself is balls between two spacers
A while back there were a couple folks who were advocating the cheap route and doing exactly that. The key is by doing so you probably make the diff action worse (certainly no better) than it was with the existing collars that pick up the inside race. The race ("spacer") for the thrust bearing ends up riding on BOTH races of the outer hub bearing, essentially creating a steel bushing out of it. Admittedly there isn't a LOT of free-spinning there, but I can't imagine the long term effect on the axle at that point is very good either.

Note that the OE mfr's collar SPECIFICALLY only picks up one race. The SlapMaster (and any effective substitute) only picks up the other race.
__________________
Congressmen should wear uniforms like NASCAR drivers so we can identify their corporate sponsors.

THE REVOLUTION WILL NOT BE TELEVISED -Gil Scott-Heron (1949-2011)
Scottrik is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-04-2008, 06:14 AM   #27846
oze
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Budapest, Hungary
Posts: 142
Default

Thanks, Arn0, it's clear now.
On my car the rear axle has the same diameter for the bearing and for the nut, this is why I did not understand why you need that spacer.

Anyway, the link you put here with the pics lead us to a French site but translated into English. Can I get the other pages of overrc.com site in English?
oze is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-04-2008, 06:22 AM   #27847
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 485
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by oze View Post
Anyway, the link you put here with the pics lead us to a French site but translated into English. Can I get the other pages of overrc.com site in English?
I wrote the page in English and give it to the webmaster, that's the reason it is in English. But he asks me to turn it into French if possible as OverRC does most of the time pages in French and the majority of the visitors are French speakers, as explained by the webmaster. You may use one of internet translator to get them in (wildly broken) English.
Can't do more here!

BTW, Scott, nice detailed explanation!
Arn0 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-04-2008, 07:19 AM   #27848
Tech Master
 
busman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Enumclaw, Washington
Posts: 1,434
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Quante View Post
Well Scottrik, the reamer still lives and keeps cutting holes in lexan as good as it did before, I can take a picture of the reamer I did it with if you want but aluminum is a pretty soft material once you get through the anodising.

For the people who can do this at home perhaps its smart to use, I dont know, a countersink drill.... maybe just a sharp SS10 drill or something. Then you wont even risk the reamer.

And whats that about precision??? do you acuse CRC of making a part thats not straight? or how does me cutting a 45 angle over about half the inside of the CRC part make it a bad part?
Trust me, I have had the slapmaster bearing as well and I use this now because I dont trust the delrin piece thats accompanied by it. It centered on the shield of the ball bearing and it also applied its pressure there. The CRC thing does not, it centeres on the axle and puts pressure on the outside of the ball bearing.
Key quote! Forgot to mention when centering on the axle creates drag, thus negating the desired result, i.e. a smoooooth Diff.
busman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-04-2008, 08:04 AM   #27849
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Belgium
Posts: 526
Trader Rating: 6 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by busman View Post
Key quote! Forgot to mention when centering on the axle creates drag, thus negating the desired result, i.e. a smoooooth Diff.
Feel my diff (if you're in Europe) you wont even notice....
__________________
Make it idiot-proof, and someone will make a better idiot.
Quante is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-04-2008, 08:47 AM   #27850
srf
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 38
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

I have a couple questions of what to expect with a couple set up changes.. I would like to know what to look for so after I make the change I can tell it helped or not..

First on a 12L4..

What should I see when going from thin damper disk lube, to a thicker lube? Should it make the car more aggressive (twitchier)? Or will it slow the reaction and make the car more stable??

What should I see when going from a soft front spring, to a stiffer front spring? Will it take steering away (more of a push) or give it more steering?? I have heard both ways??

And center spring what will going to a stiffer shock spring do?? make the car push more?? Thanks for your help!!!!!!

My car feels good right now but almost too locked in... Our carpet is brand new so it doesnt have a TON of traction, but I notice I can hear my rear tires scrubbing in the rear, is this not enough traction or the rear being too locked in?? thanks!!!!
srf is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-04-2008, 10:04 AM   #27851
Moderator
 
Pro ten Holland's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Druten/Holland (Europe)
Posts: 1,658
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by srf View Post
I have a couple questions of what to expect with a couple set up changes.. I would like to know what to look for so after I make the change I can tell it helped or not..

First on a 12L4..

What should I see when going from thin damper disk lube, to a thicker lube? Should it make the car more aggressive (twitchier)? Or will it slow the reaction and make the car more stable??

What should I see when going from a soft front spring, to a stiffer front spring? Will it take steering away (more of a push) or give it more steering?? I have heard both ways??

And center spring what will going to a stiffer shock spring do?? make the car push more?? Thanks for your help!!!!!!

My car feels good right now but almost too locked in... Our carpet is brand new so it doesnt have a TON of traction, but I notice I can hear my rear tires scrubbing in the rear, is this not enough traction or the rear being too locked in?? thanks!!!!
Thicker lube on damper disc= more agressive into corner, less steering mid-corner, more steering on the throttle.

Softer front springs= more steering, mainly midcorner. Comes at the expense of more body roll -> the car will roll over quicker.
Stifer front spring= a littel more agressive on corner entry at cost of mid-corner steering.
I'de stick to the stock 0.020" front springs on the L4. They seem to give the best compromise.

A stiffer center spring loads more weight on the front end when applying throttle, thus giving you more steering on corner exit.

I never really heard my tires scrub on carpet. Maybe the body is touching the carpet?

In general, I just keep adding steering until either my car starts to roll, or it becomes to twitchy to be fast.
The easiest way to add steering is to apply traction compound on a larger area of you front tires.
Pro ten Holland is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-04-2008, 10:13 AM   #27852
Tech Elite
 
edseb's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Laguna Niguel, California
Posts: 2,422
Default

Ok need some help with 19t since it isn't a class I run very often. My questions are specifically for Peak Dynasty and Komodo. Brushes and springs (and any brush cutting), and gearing with 1.7" rears (or rollout). Any personal experience regarding these motors would be great too. Thanks.
__________________
RC Car Action Editor and Photographer
Carl Hyndman
edseb is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-04-2008, 12:55 PM   #27853
Tech Champion
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Hawaii, USA
Posts: 7,157
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Quante View Post
Trust me, I have had the slapmaster bearing as well and I use this now because I dont trust the delrin piece thats accompanied by it. It centered on the shield of the ball bearing and it also applied its pressure there. The CRC thing does not, it centeres on the axle and puts pressure on the outside of the ball bearing.
Actually it applies it's pressure to the outer race of the ball bearing. There is a small lip on the inside of the delrin spacer that centers the piece on the inside edge of the outer race of the ball bearing and is not deep enough to put pressure on the shield.
InspGadgt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-04-2008, 02:17 PM   #27854
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: New Bern, N.C.
Posts: 1,179
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default to srf

in my experience, less dampening on 12L discs yields more immediate steering response while heavier dampening yields more mid corner and on power exit steering and the ability to push the car harder in the middle of the corner and to get on the throttle sooner with out introducing on-power push.

lighter front springs add steering. lighter shock spring adds rear grip.

if you can hear your tires in the corners, it's likely sliding. on low grip carpet it's not unusual for one or both ends of the car to be loosing grip. when the cars are hooked up, the track conditions are good, and the balance is correct, there should be very little if any tire noise in the corners and you want to have the car roll thru the corners without any sliding at either end. That's the most efficient. sliding sideways scrubs speed.
vafactor is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-04-2008, 07:38 PM   #27855
Tech Elite
 
edseb's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Laguna Niguel, California
Posts: 2,422
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by edseb View Post
Ok need some help with 19t since it isn't a class I run very often. My questions are specifically for Peak Dynasty and Komodo. Brushes and springs (and any brush cutting), and gearing with 1.7" rears (or rollout). Any personal experience regarding these motors would be great too. Thanks.
Help, anyone?
__________________
RC Car Action Editor and Photographer
Carl Hyndman
edseb is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
New to the forum mig rod Electric Off-Road 1 01-05-2008 05:23 PM
hi i need help and im new to the forum racer4 Rookie Zone 4 01-21-2007 02:37 PM
Why is this forum listed under the On Road Forum? sport10 Onroad Nitro Engine Zone 0 01-11-2007 08:06 AM
Forum Changes... futureal Wisconsin & Illinois Racing 3 10-28-2002 09:26 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 05:54 AM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net

SEO by vBSEO 3.5.0