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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 01-03-2008, 11:35 AM   #27826
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Chassis is a CRC 3.2R and it does have mounts.



Bout time Don!
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Old 01-03-2008, 02:52 PM   #27827
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StuartC: could you post a picture of that thrust bearing assembly, I'm having a hard time visualizing it. Thanks in advance!
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Old 01-03-2008, 03:11 PM   #27828
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Originally Posted by adam lancia View Post
StuartC: could you post a picture of that thrust bearing assembly, I'm having a hard time visualizing it. Thanks in advance!
Regarding a Thurst Bearing on a AE 12th, I did the following, replacing a CRC cone by a custom part:




Comments are welcome!
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Old 01-03-2008, 03:33 PM   #27829
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Originally Posted by adam lancia View Post
StuartC: could you post a picture of that thrust bearing assembly, I'm having a hard time visualizing it. Thanks in advance!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Arn0 View Post
Regarding a Thurst Bearing on a AE 12th, I did the following, replacing a CRC cone by a custom part:

Comments are welcome!
What Arn0 has done is exactly what makes the Slapmaster kit what it is...he's done the collar so it picks up the OUTER race of the hub bearing rather than the now standard collars that pick up the inner race. This hand-machined collar is why the SlapMaster kits run $20-25...yeah the thrust bearing is a $3 part, making that collar and then packaging and distributing them so they're readily available to all and making sure the shop makes an acceptable mark-up is where the "magic" is. Hell...I've got access to a lathe but if Brian's willing to do 'em for what they sell for I wouldn't bother. Time better spent on something else. Like learning to drive.

Adam, you'll see several well-intentioned people saying just buy a $3 thrust bearing from XYZ Bearings and throw it in there. It HELPS, but it is by NO means the solution. It will make the diff spin a little more freely but it doesn't protect that outer bearing from improper side-loading. That side-load is present at all times when the diff is tensioned but it spikes WAY over the top every time you hit a barrier with your rear wheel/axle. SlapMaster's and Arn0's collar eliminates that impact load from affecting the bearing. End result, longer bearing life and no more heats ruined by poor handling because the bearing got notchy when you hit.
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Last edited by Scottrik; 01-03-2008 at 04:05 PM.
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Old 01-03-2008, 03:53 PM   #27830
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i am a barrier tester in our club racing and i can say that i saved money this year by running the slapmaster thrust bearing compared to all the bearings i bought the year before!
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Old 01-03-2008, 04:44 PM   #27831
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Originally Posted by Scottrik View Post
What Arn0 has done is exactly what makes the Slapmaster kit what it is...he's done the collar so it picks up the OUTER race of the hub bearing rather than the now standard collars that pick up the inner race. This hand-machined collar is why the SlapMaster kits run $20-25...yeah the thrust bearing is a $3 part, making that collar and then packaging and distributing them so they're readily available to all and making sure the shop makes an acceptable mark-up is where the "magic" is. Hell...I've got access to a lathe but if Brian's willing to do 'em for what they sell for I wouldn't bother. Time better spent on something else. Like learning to drive.

Adam, you'll see several well-intentioned people saying just buy a $3 thrust bearing from XYZ Bearings and throw it in there. It HELPS, but it is by NO means the solution. It will make the diff spin a little more freely but it doesn't protect that outer bearing from improper side-loading. That side-load is present at all times when the diff is tensioned but it spikes WAY over the top every time you hit a barrier with your rear wheel/axle. SlapMaster's and Arn0's collar eliminates that impact load from affecting the bearing. End result, longer bearing life and no more heats ruined by poor handling because the bearing got notchy when you hit.
I agree that the slapmaster kit is expensive because of the delrin piece the kit contains. On a CRC car the red alu piece can be modded extremely easily to do just the same thing.
I did this with a body reamer cause at that moment I had nothing else in my hands, but you can just cut a chamfer on one side of the alu spacer and make sure that side goes against the bearing (the reamer didnt like it but its an area where the holes would be too big for a body post anyway). The inner ring of the ball bearing will not be touched, neither will the shield.
Easy, cheap and I can still turn it around and press the bearing when I want to.
See included pics to clarify.
Attached Thumbnails
1/12 forum-p1010117.jpg   1/12 forum-p1010122.jpg  
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Old 01-03-2008, 05:06 PM   #27832
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Excellent tip

You mean to avoid buying a $20-25 pre-packaged part that is an EXCELLENT value I can:

Buy a $3 thrust bearing (plus lord knows what shipping...and time spent farting around trying to find/source one).

Ruin a $18-20 reamer

Have a part that maybe sorta works, but is anything BUT precision.

OR...call/e-mail Slapmaster (or Ashford Hobbies, or...), pay $22-25 (shipped!) via PayPal and receive a precision part in the mail that takes me a whopping minute to install. And my reamer still cuts ROUND holes in bodies like a hot knife through butter.

The economics defy me, and I'm never a fan of mis-using tools, but if your method works for you all I have to say is FANTASTIC!! Good on you. Like I said...I could cut one or a dozen proper spacers (as Arn0 has done) on the Sherline lathe, but for as cheap as these really are (and as long as they last) it ain't worth the set-up/clean-up, much less the time to make the piece and the material.

I would suggest, however, that you'd find your "sweet spot" would be a bit larger if you continued to run the Belleville washer for some "spring" effect/tensioning. The reason Brian selected Delrin was for it's inherent elasticity characteristics (spring-like qualities...takes place of Belleville).
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Old 01-03-2008, 05:23 PM   #27833
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Default quantity of diff balls

The 12L4 instructions suggest only using 6 diff balls even though the spur has enough holes for 12. I've run CRC spurs with only 8 balls. I run stock and 19T can I use only 6 plain steel diff balls?
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Old 01-03-2008, 05:36 PM   #27834
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The 12L4 instructions suggest only using 6 diff balls even though the spur has enough holes for 12. I've run CRC spurs with only 8 balls. I run stock and 19T can I use only 6 plain steel diff balls?
You certainly CAN run 6. I prefer to run as many as possible (12 in my case) because to get the "grip" you need (minimal slip) it requires less clamping force be applied to 12 balls as 6 (maybe half? I don't know the engineering here). Less clamping force generally means a smoother diff action and less pre-load on bearings. I'd also guess it would be easier on the diff balls themselves and diff rings, though that's more intuitive than well thought-out.
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Old 01-03-2008, 05:45 PM   #27835
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Originally Posted by Tuner EM View Post
The 12L4 instructions suggest only using 6 diff balls even though the spur has enough holes for 12. I've run CRC spurs with only 8 balls. I run stock and 19T can I use only 6 plain steel diff balls?
In an effort to achieve a light weight diff assembly AE supplied what they called a Stealth diff with the 12L3. It had small diameter rings and only used six balls. It worked fine for one heat, then needed rebuilding. For the reasons Scottrick stated above, the extra pressure required to get the diff tight enough caused the balls, rings and thrust bearing to wear quickly. Some people will tell you that six balls works well, but that has never been my experience
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Old 01-03-2008, 07:37 PM   #27836
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I agree that the slapmaster kit is expensive because of the delrin piece the kit contains. On a CRC car the red alu piece can be modded extremely easily to do just the same thing.
I did this with a body reamer cause at that moment I had nothing else in my hands, but you can just cut a chamfer on one side of the alu spacer and make sure that side goes against the bearing (the reamer didnt like it but its an area where the holes would be too big for a body post anyway). The inner ring of the ball bearing will not be touched, neither will the shield.
Easy, cheap and I can still turn it around and press the bearing when I want to.
See included pics to clarify.
In that setup though you have no spring mechanism for adjustment. The spring washer on a standard diff has enough give on it so that you don't go from too loose to too tight immediately. On the Thrustmaster the delrin spacer has some give to act as the spring.
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Old 01-03-2008, 10:22 PM   #27837
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Originally Posted by Scottrik View Post
You certainly CAN run 6. I prefer to run as many as possible (12 in my case) because to get the "grip" you need (minimal slip) it requires less clamping force be applied to 12 balls as 6 (maybe half? I don't know the engineering here). Less clamping force generally means a smoother diff action and less pre-load on bearings. I'd also guess it would be easier on the diff balls themselves and diff rings, though that's more intuitive than well thought-out.
i to like to use all my balls
much better.and i really like the slapmaster too.
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Old 01-04-2008, 01:37 AM   #27838
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Thanks for the replies guys, I've got the Slapmaster thrust bearing, I was just curious if this allowed the fitment of a ceramic thrust bearing like the one from Corraly. I think that has an OD that is too big though...
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Old 01-04-2008, 02:03 AM   #27839
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Arn0 View Post
Regarding a Thurst Bearing on a AE 12th, I did the following, replacing a CRC cone by a custom part:




Comments are welcome!
What is the role of the plastic spacer? Why is it better from plastic vs metal? What is the role of the lip on the spacer?
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Old 01-04-2008, 02:57 AM   #27840
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Well Scottrik, the reamer still lives and keeps cutting holes in lexan as good as it did before, I can take a picture of the reamer I did it with if you want but aluminum is a pretty soft material once you get through the anodising.

For the people who can do this at home perhaps its smart to use, I dont know, a countersink drill.... maybe just a sharp SS10 drill or something. Then you wont even risk the reamer.

And whats that about precision??? do you acuse CRC of making a part thats not straight? or how does me cutting a 45 angle over about half the inside of the CRC part make it a bad part?
Trust me, I have had the slapmaster bearing as well and I use this now because I dont trust the delrin piece thats accompanied by it. It centered on the shield of the ball bearing and it also applied its pressure there. The CRC thing does not, it centeres on the axle and puts pressure on the outside of the ball bearing.
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