R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

    Hide Wikipost
Old 10-28-2016, 12:43 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: 1/12 forum
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: fenton06
This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

Print Wikipost

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 12-28-2007, 11:17 PM   #27781
Tech Regular
 
Applesauce's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Boynton Beach, FL
Posts: 419
Trader Rating: 14 (100%+)
Default diff lube

what recommendations do you guy have for diff lube with ceramic balls?
Applesauce is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-28-2007, 11:23 PM   #27782
Tech Champion
 
Scottrik's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Billings, MT
Posts: 6,119
Trader Rating: 237 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Applesauce View Post
what recommendations do you guy have for diff lube with ceramic balls?
I've been using Niftech diff lube on my ceramics for a couple years now with very satisfactory results. I like it in the syringe form...very convenient and easy to control quantities applied.
__________________
Congressmen should wear uniforms like NASCAR drivers so we can identify their corporate sponsors.

THE REVOLUTION WILL NOT BE TELEVISED -Gil Scott-Heron (1949-2011)
Scottrik is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-28-2007, 11:30 PM   #27783
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 814
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Scottrik View Post
OK assembled Sages of 1/12...

Here's what's bugging me.

When siting components on the chassis we do so with balance devices to get the side-to-side balance equal. Pretty much every chassis has balance holes at the front lip and the rear edge of the rear pod.

MY quandry is that I really think we should be balancing the main chassis plate and everything on it IRRESPECTIVE of the rear pod and it's symetric attachments to the main plate. Don't get me wrong, I appreciate that the rear pod should be as balanced as possible but my belief is that:

a) the rear pod balance is what it is, really, other than adding weight we have not say in it other than to change motor brand/type

b) regardless it's balance (or lack thereof) it is sitting flat supported by the straight axle we are limited to by rule.

I'm thinking I should be balancing the chassis main plate and it's components by itself since it is, essentially supported by the front wheels via the suspension there and the rear pivot. To do so I'll add a hole to my main chassis plate ahead of the pivot screw to accept my balance buttons.

Really I should be able to do this without the components on the centerline (shock, antenna/mount, battery brace) OR the symetric stuff (front suspension, cross-braces, side links, pivots, etc. If this works I should be able to take the main plate with the servo, servo-saver and linkage attached then balance it out with my receiver, esc and related components (caps, diodes, etc). THEN assemble the rest of the car around this.

If I'm clearly goofy please feel free to point this out but be sure to explain why. I've been puzzling on this for a while now and just can't see how I'm mistaken.

Thanks,

Scottrik
I have been building my 1/12th cars just as you describe above for the last two plus years. When building a brand new car or when I change components, I disconnect the motor pod from the T bar and then using four scales, arrange the electronic components on the chassis until I get the numbers on the two rear scales as close as possible and the numbers on the two front scales as close as possible. I use a couple of golf tees ground down with a pencil sharpener to the correct height and put them in the two T bar holes and the golf tees on the rear scales. The front tires should also be trued identically. I have been looking at the motor pod and trying to figure out a way to balance it impendent of the main chassis using two scales, one under each of the rear wheels. But... alas, it has been an exercise in futility. You would need to move the right side pod plate and move the axle hub and then making new right side hubs and then... well, you get the point.
Crashby is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-29-2007, 12:19 AM   #27784
Tech Elite
 
wallyedmonds's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Brampton ont canada
Posts: 3,662
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Applesauce View Post
what recommendations do you guy have for diff lube with ceramic balls?
iv used different ones but always gone back to AE red label lube to lube my ceramic balls its just the best imo.
wallyedmonds is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-29-2007, 04:13 AM   #27785
Tech Lord
 
protc3's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Spring Hill,Florida
Posts: 10,813
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Applesauce View Post
what recommendations do you guy have for diff lube with ceramic balls?
Any thin silicone grease will work well. AE,IRS,Niftec,losi, ect. YOu just want to stay away from the thicker greases.
__________________
Jason Breiner
BMI Racing
Team Associated
J Concepts
protc3 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-31-2007, 10:52 AM   #27786
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Posts: 389
Send a message via Yahoo to hicheef
Default Must Have Hop ups???

Whats up All?!?!!
I've had a bone stock Factory Team 12L4 sitting in the closet (3/4 built), for about a year and a half now. Did the touring thing for a bit but now 12th is taking off at my local track so I'd like to dust it off, finish building it and give it a go.
I figure if I can get my 12th game straight I can pretty much drive anything. As this is pretty much out of the box, I was wondering what are the "must have" hop-ups for the 12L4? No bling, just the stuff you really have to have to go fast once the driver gets his head straight. I know to talk to most of the guys at the track but the majority of the time either they, or I am trying to thrash to get ready for or heats or races. Besides, about 3/4 of them are driving cars other than the 12L4 and the ones who are have those things so frankensteined with parts from other cars you can't even recognise the Associaed bits anymore. Any input is much appreciated!!!
Kevin
hicheef is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-31-2007, 11:00 AM   #27787
Tech Champion
 
Scottrik's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Billings, MT
Posts: 6,119
Trader Rating: 237 (100%+)
Default

I'd do:

CRC lowered rear pod plates (WAY more use out of tires)

IRS rear ride height adjusters (WAY easier to make rear height adjustments, the Associated/CRC ones are a joke).

CRC front ride height shims (AE's four 1/16" washers are a similar cruel joke).

Lunsford Ti front axles (threads are rolled rather than cut, won't break like the stock steel axle).

Go race.
__________________
Congressmen should wear uniforms like NASCAR drivers so we can identify their corporate sponsors.

THE REVOLUTION WILL NOT BE TELEVISED -Gil Scott-Heron (1949-2011)
Scottrik is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-31-2007, 11:11 AM   #27788
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 241
Default

hicheef-

I would add IRS lowered front arms to Scottrik's list, so you can run smaller front tires.
Larry Brown is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-31-2007, 11:22 AM   #27789
Tech Champion
 
Scottrik's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Billings, MT
Posts: 6,119
Trader Rating: 237 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry Brown View Post
hicheef-

I would add IRS lowered front arms to Scottrik's list, so you can run smaller front tires.
DOH!! I KNEW that one too...

Good catch Larry!
__________________
Congressmen should wear uniforms like NASCAR drivers so we can identify their corporate sponsors.

THE REVOLUTION WILL NOT BE TELEVISED -Gil Scott-Heron (1949-2011)
Scottrik is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-31-2007, 11:58 AM   #27790
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Posts: 389
Send a message via Yahoo to hicheef
Default Replies

Thanks a ton guys!!!!

Kevin
hicheef is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-31-2007, 05:29 PM   #27791
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Posts: 389
Send a message via Yahoo to hicheef
Default 12L4 Build Problem

Hey Guys,
Working the finishing touches on my build and am wondering if anyone else who has built a 12L4 ran into this problem.
I'm screwing in an CO27 stock motor and am noticing that I'm not able to secur a pinion to the motor as the center screw for the T-Plate keeps the motor from moving far enough forward to accomodate the correct size pinion. the slots on the bulkhead are fine and there is plenty still to move but the screw hits the can long before I can move the motor forward. Am I missing something, aside from not owning a Gen-X? LOL.
Thanks,
Kevin
hicheef is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-31-2007, 05:29 PM   #27792
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Posts: 389
Send a message via Yahoo to hicheef
Default 12L4 Build Problem

Hey Guys,
Working the finishing touches on my build and am wondering if anyone else who has built a 12L4 ran into this problem.
I'm screwing in an CO27 stock motor and am noticing that I'm not able to secur a pinion to the motor as the center screw for the T-Plate keeps the motor from moving far enough forward to accomodate the correct size pinion. the slots on the bulkhead are fine and there is plenty still to move but the screw hits the can long before I can move the motor forward. Am I missing something, aside from not owning a Gen-X? LOL.
Thanks,
Kevin
hicheef is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-31-2007, 05:36 PM   #27793
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 485
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by hicheef View Post
Hey Guys,
Working the finishing touches on my build and am wondering if anyone else who has built a 12L4 ran into this problem.
I'm screwing in an CO27 stock motor and am noticing that I'm not able to secur a pinion to the motor as the center screw for the T-Plate keeps the motor from moving far enough forward to accomodate the correct size pinion. the slots on the bulkhead are fine and there is plenty still to move but the screw hits the can long before I can move the motor forward. Am I missing something, aside from not owning a Gen-X? LOL.
Thanks,
Kevin
I've an L3 with the same "problem". I recall (read some where but also on a 10L2) the center screw - or exactly the nut need - to be some file/dremel work to accommodate correct ratio depending your spur.
Somes may confirm this fact. You could also also with a smaller spur to obtain the desired ratio!
Hope that help!
Arn0 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-31-2007, 05:37 PM   #27794
Tech Elite
 
Grenade10's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Fort Collins, Colorado
Posts: 4,667
Trader Rating: 37 (100%+)
Default

Most people do not run the center screw in the center on carpet. However, you can also use a small aluminum nut. You will probably find that the motor will hit the T-bar. You can use a dremmel to bevel the surface or purchase a T-bar from PRC that is already notched for you. Other option would be to use a smaller spur whitch will also give you more motor room. I'm using a 96 spur in stock at most times.

www.powellracingcomponents.com
__________________
Darkside, Sweep, BSR, Fantom, IGT Hobbies and IGT8
Byrons Fuel, ProtoForm Bodies & Futaba Radio Gear by Choice
Founding Member of CORRC .... 5280raceway
www.darksidems.com www.igthobbies.com www.IGT8.com
Grenade10 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-31-2007, 05:42 PM   #27795
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Hastings, MN
Posts: 825
Send a message via AIM to $rusty$ Send a message via MSN to $rusty$
Default

I have a L4 and on carpet I have found that on my track the car seems to be more consistent and smoother to drive without the center screw. If you still want to use the center screw for testing purposes. Take a dremel and just cut it to the same shape that the motor can is.
__________________
Rusty Andersen

thercbarn.com
$rusty$ is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
New to the forum mig rod Electric Off-Road 1 01-05-2008 05:23 PM
hi i need help and im new to the forum racer4 Rookie Zone 4 01-21-2007 02:37 PM
Why is this forum listed under the On Road Forum? sport10 Onroad Nitro Engine Zone 0 01-11-2007 08:06 AM
Forum Changes... futureal Wisconsin & Illinois Racing 3 10-28-2002 09:26 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 08:56 PM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net

SEO by vBSEO 3.5.0