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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 12-25-2007, 08:36 AM   #27751
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And here I thought you just eyeballed everything Glad to hear you lived Merry Christmas
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Old 12-25-2007, 09:46 AM   #27752
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Default glueing tires

Just question about glueing tires. How do i do this? I have seen some guys use q-tips. And do i do both sides(inner and outter edges)?

Thanks for your help guys
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Old 12-25-2007, 09:48 AM   #27753
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Originally Posted by HB View Post
Hi
I'm new whit 1/12cars
can someone tel me what have to put under the Damper washer???
fett or someting???
Use Wind Tunnel racing makes the best stuff. Its called "Sure Lube" and it come in a set of viscosities. I damper plate cars I used #2 most of the time.

Some use diff grease but it changes in viscosity during the run. The mroe you work it the thinner it gets.

If you want to skip the sure lube for now get some 5000wt silicon 1/8th buggy diff oil. Put a drop on the top and bottom damper plates where they contract the top pod plate and spin each to distribute the oil...thats it.
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Old 12-25-2007, 09:52 AM   #27754
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thanx AdrianM
i will try it
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Old 12-25-2007, 10:18 AM   #27755
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Originally Posted by Applesauce View Post
Just question about glueing tires. How do i do this? I have seen some guys use q-tips. And do i do both sides(inner and outter edges)?

Thanks for your help guys
There are two reasons to glue a tire.

1. As a preventatiuve measure to stop chunking and lifting og the foam at the edge of the rim.

First buzz the sides of the tires to get rid of any overhaning foam on the outer edge of the rim. I angle the side wall of my foam by a degree ot two so if I hit anything its rim that touches and not foam. True the tires to size. Then ca the joint between the rim and foam extending into the foam about 1mm. I just use the nozzle of my bottle of thin CA. For the fronts I spin the wheels slowly while touching the tip of the bottle against the side wall. All you want to a thin layer not a shiny area or globs. When dont allyou want to see is a slightly darker area of matte black foam.

2. To reduce traction and stop traction rolling.

Do the same as above but put CA all the way to the contact patch. I like to do this while truing tires. Trim the side walls back as above then CA the entire out side side wall. Then true the tire to size and slighty round the edges.
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Old 12-25-2007, 07:50 PM   #27756
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Just got a IRS Aluminum shock for my Rugrat, What oil shoild i run in the shock to get me started. Also what spring sould i use.
Thanks
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Old 12-25-2007, 08:03 PM   #27757
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Just got a IRS Aluminum shock for my Rugrat, What oil shoild i run in the shock to get me started. Also what spring sould i use.
Thanks
For Carpet run an AE silver spring and 30 wt. oil with a .075" T-Bar. Start with the two outer lower pod mounting holes and add the center if you need more steering.

For Asphalt run an AE olive spring and 30wt. oil with a .063" T-Bar. Start with the two outer lower pod mounting holes and add the center if you need more steering but ony if the track is super smooth. If its bumpy you can't run the center pod screw.

Thats the base setup for any T-bar car.
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Old 12-25-2007, 10:29 PM   #27758
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Originally Posted by Scottrik View Post
Hey guys--

The surgeons were unable to kill me so here I am, back to pester.

Here is what I posted via pm to a fellow regarding how to use the Niftech alignment gauge. For simplicity/speed sake I use a RPM camber gauge to set camber. For toe, though, even though I have a Unity station I invariably use the Niftech gauges--just a lot less hassle setting up, much more (MUCH much more) compact, works as well, etc. Plus as was indicated the Niftech gauge is also excellent for adjusting center on the rear axle.

lmk if I can provide additional info.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------

The single-hole bar has precision etched lines on either end that line up with a rod sticking through the other. It is the accuracy of the bar holes and these lines that make it work.

Set car on a stand that supports it off it's wheels. I use foam stands from p-dub but others are fine too.

Center the servo horn as best possible using the sub-trim on your radio to fine tune

Front wheels removed, install the bars on either axle. I install the one with 2 holes that holds the rod on the rf (to my left--the chassis is facing me). It really doesn't matter which side, I just find it easier to be consistent.

Radio transmitter and receiver on.

Pull the front of the car so it hangs out over the edge of your bench/set-up board/whatever. You need clearance to swing the bars around. Your batteries and motor are installed so there's plenty of weight to hold the car on the table.

You can eyeball the bars pretty straight. Once you're close push the rod through and see how it lines up with the line on the opposite (lf bar--to my right). Once it's pointing straight at the forward line flip the bar to your left (the one with the rod) over and check it against the back side of the other bar...how does it line up with the line there. It likely won't quite, what this means is one side is toed in a little and one side is toed out.

If it is pointing behind the line that means the rf (to your left) is toed in a bit and the lf (to your right) is toed out a bit. Give a part turn (not more than 1/8) to the rf turnbuckle (again, to your left) to shorten it and a similar amount to the lf turnbuckle (to your right) to lengthen it and check again. THIS is the fiddling that takes a little getting used to, but after a few times you'll see exactly how it works.

Once I get it so the rod points at the lines front and back you have it set with zero toe--the wheels are pointed exactly parallel to the centerline of the chassis. I ran like this for a couple years but this year I've taken to running about 1mm or a bit more of toe out. To get this I find the zero point then shorten each turnbuckle by about 1/8 turn. You can measure how much this yields by checking with the rod again. If you have it flipped back and push it through to touch the other bar then flip it to the front. There will now be a gap, divide that gap by 2 and you have your toe.

I RARELY need to adjust my steering trim to have the car track straight after I've done this. It's amazing how such a simple device can work so well.

It is also PERFECT for checking to see that your rear axle is centered in the car.

If I knew how to post things to U-Tube, etc, I'd make a video on doing this. I spent far longer typing this than it takes me to perform the check/adjustment.

The BIG key to making this work is to have your turnbuckles properly oriented. I can't tell you how many times I've bought or worked on cars that weren't so you're spending your time guessing which direction goes longer or shorter. I have ALL my cars set up so that when I use my turnbuckle wrench(es) the turbuckles get longer if I pull forward and shorter if I pull to the rear. This is done by making sure that ALL of the right-hand thread ends of ALL your turnbuckles point to the right side of the car.

I think I've mentioned that I've got a Unity station. They're a VERY nice piece, but I never use it. It's really no more accurate. It might be a little faster to use but the time to set it up WAY more than offsets that. Plus it needs a lot of space, you gotta be careful around it, etc. The Niftech bars are pretty much indestructible and sit nicely with my wrenches, etc.
Cool!
Thanks for the explanation. I think i've got it!

-Steve
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Old 12-26-2007, 02:02 PM   #27759
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FOR SALE
A Team Integy Team Auto-super lathe. This is a automatic motor lathe from Integy. It comes with an aluminum carrying case and original box. This lathe has only been used twice, I just don't race electric enough to keep it. I am asking for 75.00 shipped to any in the US. If you have any questions our would like some pics please email me at Jon@vgsportsinc.com
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Old 12-26-2007, 10:26 PM   #27760
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the image is Mark's old CRC 3.2R, the chassis look like a ABP but what is the part he use to mount the Battery-holding O-ring?
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Old 12-26-2007, 11:23 PM   #27761
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the image is Mark's old CRC 3.2R, the chassis look like a ABP but what is the part he use to mount the Battery-holding O-ring?
That's a real Frankenstein of a car. 'Least it's all CRC.

Looks like a Gen-X main chassis and wings, CK rear pod, reactive-camber front-end made up of CRC upgraded parts.
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Old 12-27-2007, 09:28 AM   #27762
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Originally Posted by Crashby View Post
HA! Welcome to the scavenger hunt. I have not found a part number for the complete shock to date. Hot Bodies will probably offer that as a future option but it's not available as a complete shock right now. You have to buy all of the parts and part number 61661 is not available, ANYWHERE!!! I have checked as many of the Euro sites that I could find and all of the Asian sites I could find. None available anywhere. I am sure that they will become available eventually. Stormer has all of the parts in stock except for 61661.

If anyone finds 61661 any where, please post the site.
Good news and bad news for everyone looking for the HB shock.

Good news-Stormer has 61661 back in stock.
Bad news- Now they're out of the other two part numbers needed to make the shock
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Old 12-27-2007, 10:27 AM   #27763
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scottrik View Post
That's a real Frankenstein of a car. 'Least it's all CRC.

Looks like a Gen-X main chassis and wings, CK rear pod, reactive-camber front-end made up of CRC upgraded parts.
It's a "J-spec", a car that is designed for the japanese market and was released between the 3.2r and genX.
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Old 12-27-2007, 10:40 AM   #27764
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i just got a 12th scale and just wondering how to gear with a stock motor the car is a crc 3.1r
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Old 12-27-2007, 06:23 PM   #27765
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Originally Posted by JamesArluck View Post
Good news and bad news for everyone looking for the HB shock.

Good news-Stormer has 61661 back in stock.
Bad news- Now they're out of the other two part numbers needed to make the shock

Bad news once again stormer is out of 61661, I just went to buy it and no luck!

-Monti-
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