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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 12-20-2007, 06:51 AM   #27706
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry Brown View Post
I'd suggest around 53 to 55mm to start, F brushes and 767's are good and if temp. is really high try xxx brushes.
Thanks

Next question,what Brushless motor would be comparible to a 19t?
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Old 12-20-2007, 10:00 AM   #27707
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For teflon stickers have anyone tried computer gaming supplies?

http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g12/...eet-Page1.html

On my RC18T when I was racing carpet oval, I modded the chassis to have a 4mm stance with the swing shafts even. I notcied the chassis had excessive rub marks so I installed teflon stickers on those spots.

For asphalt racing, I think having a .5 ~ 1mm routed out hole to install a hard teflon skate like on pro gaming mice would be great! Seems it would save a $100 chassis from looking like junk in the first week of hard racing.
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Old 12-20-2007, 10:17 AM   #27708
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I think the novak 13.5T is similar to a 19T in 1:12

The 17.5T is similar to stocker motor. I am saying similar, because it seems the BL's have better infield advantages when geared to the same speed for straights. Also it seems the brushless cars need a softer trigger finger when comming off a corner or you can spin out.

As for having problems with BL speedeos they are more complicated than just a normal speedo and with the lower voltages things may not function as well as with 5 or 6 cells. I use the Novak 4-Cell DSM esc in my CRC and the only problems I have had with the setup was glitching in the Spektrum RX that was resolved with a 3300UF capacitor.
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Old 12-20-2007, 01:31 PM   #27709
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trickd122 View Post
Thanks

Next question,what Brushless motor would be comparible to a 19t?
10.5

and i use a sphere 007 and run a novak 10.5 or a orion 10.5
and i dont have any problems.
4 cell with spectrum.
no glitching.

never have been happier with my 1/12 gen-x.
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Old 12-20-2007, 01:42 PM   #27710
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wingman2 View Post
I need you to understand that some of these guys have been racing for over 30 years, so don't think its because of something stupid mate! First off, some of the speedo's decide to tuen off, half way through a run. They are not even warm let alone hot. One of the guys keeps snapping the shaft that the pinion goes on. Not once, but a couple of times and it was n't like he whacked a wall or track marker real hard either! Lastly, because of the differant way a brushless puts the power down compared to a brushed motor, the setup of the cars is differant now as well. One of the guys was saying that he was trying things to do with setup that he would never do normally, just to get it right whilst using the brushless setup. I know that brushless systems are less maintenance, etc, etc, but I don't mind having to true a motor once in a while to not have any of the other hassles (that's what I do work you see!). Cheers mate, Chris.


You should talk your reply was very rude. All the guy said "what problems are they having with BL.
i run BL and iv never been happier"


I need you to understand that some of these guys have been racing for over 30 years, so don't think its because of something stupid mate!



Nice you sound like a top class A-hole.
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Old 12-20-2007, 03:24 PM   #27711
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Hello There Korey,

I think Buds racing may have some but Im not sure. I have a big roll of it I could send you some its kind of old though it sticks alitte bit that what I used when I ran my 12L4.I could send you some strips of it and see if it works.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Korey Harbke View Post
Know where I can snag some of that?
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Old 12-20-2007, 07:09 PM   #27712
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Merry Christmas, y'all!

Last edited by ToddFalkowski; 12-21-2007 at 02:01 PM.
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Old 12-20-2007, 07:11 PM   #27713
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AdrianM View Post
...Also, just because someone has done something for 30 years doesn't mean they know anything. They could be idiots that have stumbled along in the hobby for 30 years....I know plenty of these guys...some of them have very high post counts on this very message board
Statement of the day!
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Old 12-20-2007, 07:56 PM   #27714
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New to 1/12 scale what would the ideal tire diameter be to cut tires down?
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Old 12-20-2007, 08:13 PM   #27715
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Default 20 yrs since I raced 12th scale!

Im running 31/100 for gearing on a medium asphalt track with a 12L4 and a Peak 19T with NIMH's with stock setup for now. Is that close for gearing? Anything else I should do. And what is evrybody doing for bumpers? Just a 10th scale foam shaved down to fit under body? Or shell as our friends from across the pond would say....
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Old 12-21-2007, 05:05 AM   #27716
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"Nice you sound like a top class A-hole."

Well, thanks very much for that although I don't know what you are talking about. If you look at the posts, the guys asked what trouble our club members were having with their brushless setups because they are doing well with their own, and I tried to answer the question as truthfully as possible.

Thanks again pal, Chris.
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Old 12-21-2007, 05:46 AM   #27717
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Applesauce View Post
New to 1/12 scale what would the ideal tire diameter be to cut tires down?
Carpet or asphalt? Club or big race?

Since I've only raced carpet, I can answer that... I usually cut the tires to 1.85 rear for club racing and 1.75 for big races; fronts 1.75 club and 1.70 big race.
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Old 12-21-2007, 06:04 AM   #27718
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Hi mate, I usually have the rears at around 48-49mm and the fronts slightly smaller. I know this seems quite large but I hate to true them down any more due to the high cost of tyres here in the UK. The only problem with the fronts is that modern bodyshells are quite low at the front meaning you need to use small front tyres. If you can get hold of a Corally Mercedes b'shell, you can then use big tyres no problem at all.

Hope that helps! Cheers, Chris.
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Old 12-21-2007, 07:28 AM   #27719
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club racing about 44mm rear and the fronts about 43mm
but for a big race much smaller.
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Old 12-21-2007, 07:32 AM   #27720
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club racing about 44mm rear and the fronts about 43mm
but for a big race much smaller.
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