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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 12-19-2007, 01:05 PM   #27691
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Hi guys, I thought I'd put a couple of pics from our UK SouthWest Winter Series championship on here for you all to look at. We run them once a month in a large hall. Apart from 12th cars, we also have heats for TC's and 18th scale buggies. In the brushless Vs brushed debate, I am still running brushed and managed to win all 3 rounds so far. The guys that have run brushless have experienced many problems with them and some are going to go back to brushed! The tracks have been quite difficult so far, they tend to be not that flowing which means you loose quite a bit of time if you make a mistake and need to be marshalled. Anyway, have a look and see what you think! Cheers guys, Chris.
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Old 12-19-2007, 01:16 PM   #27692
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what problems are they having with BL.
i run BL and iv never been happier
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Old 12-19-2007, 02:16 PM   #27693
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I need you to understand that some of these guys have been racing for over 30 years, so don't think its because of something stupid mate! First off, some of the speedo's decide to tuen off, half way through a run. They are not even warm let alone hot. One of the guys keeps snapping the shaft that the pinion goes on. Not once, but a couple of times and it was n't like he whacked a wall or track marker real hard either! Lastly, because of the differant way a brushless puts the power down compared to a brushed motor, the setup of the cars is differant now as well. One of the guys was saying that he was trying things to do with setup that he would never do normally, just to get it right whilst using the brushless setup. I know that brushless systems are less maintenance, etc, etc, but I don't mind having to true a motor once in a while to not have any of the other hassles (that's what I do work you see!). Cheers mate, Chris.
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Old 12-19-2007, 03:11 PM   #27694
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i see
never have seen these problems before,not even in offroad.
iv been doing 1/12 for about 22+ years myself,not the greatest driver but i like to try different things.
we only run 19t or 10.5 here im thinking you guys run mod,more power,bigger hitting.
i must say though i like the power curve of BL and the way the battery's stay stronger to 8min.
and ya working on the motors,thats nice.
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Old 12-19-2007, 04:17 PM   #27695
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wingman2 View Post
I need you to understand that some of these guys have been racing for over 30 years, so don't think its because of something stupid mate! First off, some of the speedo's decide to tuen off, half way through a run. They are not even warm let alone hot. One of the guys keeps snapping the shaft that the pinion goes on. Not once, but a couple of times and it was n't like he whacked a wall or track marker real hard either! Lastly, because of the differant way a brushless puts the power down compared to a brushed motor, the setup of the cars is differant now as well. One of the guys was saying that he was trying things to do with setup that he would never do normally, just to get it right whilst using the brushless setup. I know that brushless systems are less maintenance, etc, etc, but I don't mind having to true a motor once in a while to not have any of the other hassles (that's what I do work you see!). Cheers mate, Chris.
I have had my 1/12th car hiccup with BR and BL motors. I run mostly stock and 19T and I run no RX pack. I am pretty sure its because the voltage supply to my RX is dipping too low. I run spectrum and it cuts out at 3.6v where most other FM RX's run down to 2.2v before cutting out.

Also, just because someone has done somthing for 30 years dosen't mean they know anything. They could be idiots that have stumbled along in the hobby for 30 years....I know plenty of these guys...some of them have very high post counts on this very message board

As far as BL...yes you need to make changes but its worth it. Change is part of the hobby. Changing from 45* Stock motor to 24* Stock, 6 cell 1/12th to 4 cell a few years ago, NiCd to NiMh. Everytime there is a change I hear the same BS...the old stuff was better, blah, blah...guess what...BR motors are goting the way of cassette tapes and 8-tracks...get used to it.
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Old 12-19-2007, 06:07 PM   #27696
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Hey, quick question for some of you old school 1/12 guys.

Does anyone remember those cool teflon sticker things that we put on the graphite where damper disks rub against? Does anyone still make those? I think I remember Dan's R/C Stuff making some....

-Korey
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Old 12-19-2007, 06:28 PM   #27697
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Adrian- and others, If you don't wanna run a reciever pack with your Spektrum, you can run a cap plugged into the reciever, Spektrum makes one for their own stuff, prevents those brownouts, I know the older non Pro reciever suffered from this alot, the newer ones are better but still do it...
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Old 12-19-2007, 06:41 PM   #27698
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Korey Harbke View Post
Hey, quick question for some of you old school 1/12 guys.

Does anyone remember those cool teflon sticker things that we put on the graphite where damper disks rub against? Does anyone still make those? I think I remember Dan's R/C Stuff making some....

-Korey
Composite Craft did it. Was a strip of adhesive backed teflon in a bag. Somebody I know just covered the bottom of their 1/12th car in it, to fight "chassis butter".
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Old 12-19-2007, 07:25 PM   #27699
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Know where I can snag some of that?
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Old 12-19-2007, 07:45 PM   #27700
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Default teflon discs

havn't seen the precut peel and stick teflon discs for a while, but Bud's sells teflon tape that works great. U just have to cut it yourself (which is easily done after an oversized piece is stuck to the graphite pod plate). for some reason it works better with the teflon just on the pod plate and none on the plastic disc(s) anyway. I think teflon on both pieces is actually too slippery and so it eliminates too much dampening even with lubes added. Anyway, I think Bud's stuff works really nice.
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Old 12-19-2007, 08:17 PM   #27701
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Default gearing and rollout

I'll be running on a asphault track using a Komodo dragon 19t motor and need gearing, rollout and brush suggestions 144X72...Straight is about 140FT.
chassis 12L4
thanks
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Old 12-19-2007, 09:01 PM   #27702
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trickd122 View Post
I'll be running on a asphault track using a Komodo dragon 19t motor and need gearing, rollout and brush suggestions 144X72...Straight is about 140FT.
chassis 12L4
thanks
I'm curious to see the replies to this. Me, I would try 55-60mm rollout and f-brushes. But I don't run 19t, so I am probably way off.
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Old 12-19-2007, 09:26 PM   #27703
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Quote:
I'll be running on a asphault track using a Komodo dragon 19t motor and need gearing, rollout and brush suggestions
I'd suggest around 53 to 55mm to start, F brushes and 767's are good and if temp. is really high try xxx brushes.
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Old 12-20-2007, 02:14 AM   #27704
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Hi Adrian, mate, apart from the first paragrapth, quite a negative post! A couple of the guys at our club helped to develop the G series of Corally 12th cars a little while back so I would not consider them 'idiots just stumbling along in the hobby'! As for 'get used it to', I don't have to 'get used to it'. I'm perfectly happy with my (many) brushed motors at the moment thanks very much! And just to give you a little head's up, one of the top guys in the UK was running a 17turn motor with the brushless guys in last year's modified National series here in the UK and he held his own no problem at all! So it goes to show, it's not all 'same old BS' at all mate! Just sharing my thought's mate....
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Old 12-20-2007, 02:15 AM   #27705
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Oh I forgot to mention, those Teflon washers are still avalible from Action Model Centre here in the UK.
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