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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 11-27-2007, 08:31 PM   #27616
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mario_vk View Post
Hi to all!.

I have a problem with my rc12l4 and I canīt resolve it: Under braking the car always turn/spin to the left. I think the chasis is well balanced and the tweak adjustement is ok. The front springs are same lenght and the tires have same diameter. I have this problem since I installed a 3.5R novak.
By other hand, under power on the car behaviour is ok, no problems.

Thanks in advanced!.
Mario.

P.D: Sorry for my english, but is not my native languaje


With a 3.5r bolted to the car the best modification to make is to simply add wings. Your car should be airborne by the middle of the straightaway.

I would drop down to a 10.5 which for 12th is very fast.
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Old 11-27-2007, 10:16 PM   #27617
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Originally Posted by mario_vk View Post
Hi to all!.

I have a problem with my rc12l4 and I canīt resolve it: Under braking the car always turn/spin to the left. I think the chasis is well balanced and the tweak adjustement is ok. The front springs are same lenght and the tires have same diameter. I have this problem since I installed a 3.5R novak.
By other hand, under power on the car behaviour is ok, no problems.

Thanks in advanced!.
Mario.

P.D: Sorry for my english, but is not my native languaje
Makes sure your rear axle is centered. If it is not this can cause the veering off in one direction on power or on brakes. You will need to use shims to do this. Measure from the center of the chassis to the outside edge of each wheel.

As far as brakes don't listen to these guys. You may not need them but you should still have them setup properly. you never know when you will ned to hit the brakes to stop from running into a crash, marshall's foot, etc....

After I set up my speedo the first thing I do is reduce my brake end point on my radio until my car can stop hard when I hit the brakes but not get out of control.

I race mod 1/12th on asphalt and my track has a 90* right hander into a chicane at the end of a 170' straight... you have to use brakes or drag brakes to make that corner.
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Old 11-28-2007, 12:49 AM   #27618
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I agree with you on that one mate. I don't tend to use brakes at all with my 12th car but I have my speedo setup for maximum brakes and then adjust what I actually need via one of the knobs on my transmitter. Its usually set 1/2 way around its full value. And you're quite right that you never know when a marshall is going to run infront of your car....
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Old 11-28-2007, 06:18 AM   #27619
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Hi!

Thank you very much for all tips!. I always drive without using brakes (I setting hard drag brake in ESC), but there are some corners where you HAVE to use brakes.
I'm sure that my rear axle is centered but I'll check it again.
BTW, I think that it could be a setup/tweak problem because it's very strange that spins always to the same side (under hard braking).

Cheers!
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Old 11-28-2007, 11:43 AM   #27620
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Anybody have a recommendation for rollout using a Novak 17.5 brushless? Also what gearing (spur and pinion) and tire size for that rollout? This would be for a BMI DB12R so I need to make sure the motor will fit with the gearing. I also need an idea of what pinions to buy.
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Old 11-28-2007, 11:51 AM   #27621
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mario_vk,
I would check your front end. Sounds like you might have something bent. Check the upper arm hinge pins and make sure the arms move freely. Also make sure the king pins are straight and you have a good lube on them. I would recommend Sure Lube green. Also check the springs, make sure they are the same wire size.

Regards,
Diffdude
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Old 11-28-2007, 02:43 PM   #27622
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Diffdude View Post
mario_vk,
I would check your front end. Sounds like you might have something bent. Check the upper arm hinge pins and make sure the arms move freely. Also make sure the king pins are straight and you have a good lube on them. I would recommend Sure Lube green. Also check the springs, make sure they are the same wire size.

Regards,
Diffdude
Thanks Diffdude!. I'll check them too.
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Old 11-28-2007, 09:32 PM   #27623
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Hey All,
I have never run anything slower than a 12 turn in my 12 scale and would like to know a good starting rollout for a 19T on a small to medium-sized carpet track. As much as I like 8 turns they really are unnecessary!
Thanks,
Kane
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Old 11-28-2007, 10:33 PM   #27624
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AChupp2 View Post
Anybody have a recommendation for rollout using a Novak 17.5 brushless? Also what gearing (spur and pinion) and tire size for that rollout? This would be for a BMI DB12R so I need to make sure the motor will fit with the gearing. I also need an idea of what pinions to buy.
Guys at my track are running around a 95mm rollout with the 17.5. Get a roll-out chart at www.gearchart.com start with a 45mm rear tire, 76 spur and a 50th pinion, rollout = 95.07mm.
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Old 11-28-2007, 10:44 PM   #27625
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kane-o View Post
Hey All,
I have never run anything slower than a 12 turn in my 12 scale and would like to know a good starting rollout for a 19T on a small to medium-sized carpet track. As much as I like 8 turns they really are unnecessary!
Thanks,
Kane
I usually run around a 45mm with a Komodo.
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Old 11-29-2007, 04:40 AM   #27626
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kane-o View Post
Hey All,
I have never run anything slower than a 12 turn in my 12 scale and would like to know a good starting rollout for a 19T on a small to medium-sized carpet track. As much as I like 8 turns they really are unnecessary!
Thanks,
Kane
On the outdoor tracks we run on we run a 48 to 52mm roll out.
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Old 11-29-2007, 08:03 AM   #27627
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnny Carey View Post
I usually run around a 45mm with a Komodo.
Quote:
Originally Posted by AdrianM View Post
On the outdoor tracks we run on we run a 48 to 52mm roll out.
Thank you gentlemen. I figured 45ish and up as I run about a 38mm when I run my 12 turn.
Thanks,
Kane
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Old 11-29-2007, 01:58 PM   #27628
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hey if you any of you guys are looking for tires for the winter i have an ebay auctoin for a whole bunch. we only race carpet 4 times a year so i dont need them

check em out

http://cgi.ebay.com/JACO-Foam-Tires_...QQcmdZViewItem
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Old 11-30-2007, 01:19 PM   #27629
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Default Floating balls?

Quick question.

Just rebuilt my L4 (for the hell of it) and have noticed that the captive balls in the T-bar "float" up and down a little bit. There doesn't seem to be any side to side play so shouldn't cause any crabbing problems, but will the up and down float cause any issues? We're only talking 0.25mm here, but would it be enough to cause any problems while in use? Or am I being too paranoid?

Stu
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Old 11-30-2007, 01:50 PM   #27630
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Quote:
Just rebuilt my L4 (for the hell of it) and have noticed that the captive balls in the T-bar "float" up and down a little bit. There doesn't seem to be any side to side play so shouldn't cause any crabbing problems, but will the up and down float cause any issues? We're only talking 0.25mm here, but would it be enough to cause any problems while in use?
Stuart,

It could allow the rear pod to "float" a little vertically, especially over bumps, ripples, etc. This might cause some traction issues, although if you run stock it may be OK for awhile.

Can you tighten the 2-56 screws holding the pivot socket halves any more to eliminate the play?
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