R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

    Hide Wikipost
Old 10-28-2016, 12:43 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: 1/12 forum
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: fenton06
This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

Print Wikipost

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 11-25-2007, 11:08 PM   #27601
Tech Fanatic
 
DriftDreamer06's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 792
Trader Rating: 12 (100%+)
Default

I have been reading through the thread and looking for info on a couple of things? the first is what brushless esc are people running and why? our track is now running a 13.5 class and the second is what size wire for brushless? 12, 14, 16, .... By who?
DriftDreamer06 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-26-2007, 06:58 AM   #27602
Uga
Tech Regular
 
Uga's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: By the Baltic Sea
Posts: 438
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by punkracer24 View Post
my biggest concern is the use of jack the gripper. not saying its bad but all of my rc career when i race carpet 1/12th i used paragon and this past weekend was the first time i used the jack and it seemed that it was really dialed at first but it wore off towards the end
You should give it a bit more time to soak in. If you put it on your tires just 10 mins before race, you are really starting to loose grip after a few minutes. 30-40 mins before race should do the thing!
__________________
-=Xray XB4=-
-=Xray T4=-
-=Schumacher Cougar KF2=-
Racing in Latvia
Uga is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-26-2007, 12:58 PM   #27603
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 1,034
Trader Rating: 10 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Uga View Post
You should give it a bit more time to soak in. If you put it on your tires just 10 mins before race, you are really starting to loose grip after a few minutes. 30-40 mins before race should do the thing!

thanks for the tip
__________________
Leon McIntosh
PRO-LINE--XRAY--RCAmerica--FX Engines--NitroPro Fuel--Kustom R/C Graphics--Schelle Racing

******* DialedSetups.com ****** Check it out!!!!!
punkracer24 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-26-2007, 04:33 PM   #27604
Tech Elite
 
wallyedmonds's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Brampton ont canada
Posts: 3,662
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by DriftDreamer06 View Post
I have been reading through the thread and looking for info on a couple of things? the first is what brushless esc are people running and why? our track is now running a 13.5 class and the second is what size wire for brushless? 12, 14, 16, .... By who?
what im running right now is a lrp 07 speedo with a novak 10.5
and 16G wire
why
imo the lrp works better than the novak and is smaller and lighter
novak motor imo is better than a vortex 10.5 (some guys are blowing the front motor bearing)
in 1/12 im very happy with this setup and battery's are not a problem, you dont need really good #'s,i just use smc stick packs and break them up and make 4 cells with them.
and i have no batt fade at the 7min mark like you would with brushed.
IMO
wallyedmonds is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-26-2007, 07:10 PM   #27605
Tech Adept
 
RcLoCo Online's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: South South Bronx
Posts: 137
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by wallyedmonds View Post
what im running right now is a lrp 07 speedo with a novak 10.5
and 16G wire
why
imo the lrp works better than the novak and is smaller and lighter
novak motor imo is better than a vortex 10.5 (some guys are blowing the front motor bearing)
in 1/12 im very happy with this setup and battery's are not a problem, you dont need really good #'s,i just use smc stick packs and break them up and make 4 cells with them.
and i have no batt fade at the 7min mark like you would with brushed.
IMO
hey wally, is the 16 gauge thinner than what comes with the 07 sphere?, and does it hamper the performance of controller, or take away power in any way?Or is it compromise free? thankyou

tommy
__________________
{Mugen Seiki } { RB Concept }
{ Team Durango { JP Motors }
{K.O. PROPO } {SERPENT 811, FOREVER WAITING ON SERVO FIX!!} Nuff Said!!!!
RcLoCo Online is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-26-2007, 07:46 PM   #27606
Tech Elite
 
odpurple's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: San Francisco
Posts: 2,187
Default

16 gauge wire is more than adequate for 1/12th scale applications. Good 16ga wire will have less chance of interfering with pod movement, especially for brushless. The wire that comes on the Sphere is bigger, I think its 14ga
odpurple is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-26-2007, 07:50 PM   #27607
Tech Master
 
miller tyme's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Indiana
Posts: 1,551
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

16 is thinner than the 13 or 14awg that comes with the '07 (and most other high end esc) The determining factor in the compromise is if the gear/motor/track/car set-up result in excess current being drawn, over the short distance traveled voltage drop is negligible but heat build up greatly increases that loss.

Most Stock guys are running 18awg as this is slightly lighter and makes for a cleaner/easier install, and less chance of binding up rear pods. I prefer 16 due to its thicker more durable insulation and if I decide to drop a 6 single (yeah there are still brushed mods) I a confident it can handle the extra current draw.
__________________
Ken Miller
RC America - X-Ray - ORCA - EA Motorsorts - Pro Level RC - Sanwa - TQ Wire - ProOne Racing Tires -

LONG LIVE OPEN MODIFIED
miller tyme is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-26-2007, 08:49 PM   #27608
Tech Adept
 
RcLoCo Online's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: South South Bronx
Posts: 137
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by wallyedmonds View Post
what im running right now is a lrp 07 speedo with a novak 10.5
and 16G wire
why
imo the lrp works better than the novak and is smaller and lighter
novak motor imo is better than a vortex 10.5 (some guys are blowing the front motor bearing)
in 1/12 im very happy with this setup and battery's are not a problem, you dont need really good #'s,i just use smc stick packs and break them up and make 4 cells with them.
and i have no batt fade at the 7min mark like you would with brushed.
IMO
makes me think of runnin/finding some good gp3300's i loved thos cells!! for the lighter weight and possibly smaller?
__________________
{Mugen Seiki } { RB Concept }
{ Team Durango { JP Motors }
{K.O. PROPO } {SERPENT 811, FOREVER WAITING ON SERVO FIX!!} Nuff Said!!!!
RcLoCo Online is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-26-2007, 09:53 PM   #27609
Tech Master
 
Switch Blade's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: The British Invasion
Posts: 1,078
Send a message via AIM to Switch Blade
Default

Does anyone have any specs or pics of Toso's corally 12th scale from cleveland, such as tires and front end used?

cheers
__________________
College
Switch Blade is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-26-2007, 11:08 PM   #27610
Tech Adept
 
RcLoCo Online's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: South South Bronx
Posts: 137
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Switch Blade View Post
Does anyone have any specs or pics of Toso's corally 12th scale from cleveland, such as tires and front end used?

cheers
!
__________________
{Mugen Seiki } { RB Concept }
{ Team Durango { JP Motors }
{K.O. PROPO } {SERPENT 811, FOREVER WAITING ON SERVO FIX!!} Nuff Said!!!!

Last edited by RcLoCo Online; 11-26-2007 at 11:09 PM. Reason: wromg info
RcLoCo Online is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-27-2007, 07:41 AM   #27611
Tech Initiate
 
mario_vk's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 20
Default

Hi to all!.

I have a problem with my rc12l4 and I canīt resolve it: Under braking the car always turn/spin to the left. I think the chasis is well balanced and the tweak adjustement is ok. The front springs are same lenght and the tires have same diameter. I have this problem since I installed a 3.5R novak.
By other hand, under power on the car behaviour is ok, no problems.

Thanks in advanced!.
Mario.

P.D: Sorry for my english, but is not my native languaje
mario_vk is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-27-2007, 09:02 AM   #27612
Uga
Tech Regular
 
Uga's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: By the Baltic Sea
Posts: 438
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by mario_vk View Post
Hi to all!.

I have a problem with my rc12l4 and I canīt resolve it: Under braking the car always turn/spin to the left. I think the chasis is well balanced and the tweak adjustement is ok. The front springs are same lenght and the tires have same diameter. I have this problem since I installed a 3.5R novak.
By other hand, under power on the car behaviour is ok, no problems.

Thanks in advanced!.
Mario.

P.D: Sorry for my english, but is not my native languaje
Learn to drive without brakes
__________________
-=Xray XB4=-
-=Xray T4=-
-=Schumacher Cougar KF2=-
Racing in Latvia
Uga is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-27-2007, 10:23 AM   #27613
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,181
Trader Rating: 12 (100%+)
Default

That could be the problem. In high traction carpet applications, brakes are not really necessary. I don't even have brakes dialed in on my radio for my 1/12 scale or TC.
Kane-o is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-27-2007, 01:17 PM   #27614
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 900
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by mario_vk View Post
Hi to all!.

I have a problem with my rc12l4 and I canīt resolve it: Under braking the car always turn/spin to the left. I think the chasis is well balanced and the tweak adjustement is ok. The front springs are same lenght and the tires have same diameter. I have this problem since I installed a 3.5R novak.
By other hand, under power on the car behaviour is ok, no problems.

Thanks in advanced!.
Mario.

P.D: Sorry for my english, but is not my native languaje
12th cars don't brake in a straight line, because they are so easy to throw off line, and then get out of shape, under braking. The power of the brakes on a 3.5 will make the rear go light, one wheel starts to slide, and then it slides away from you. It's pretty much unavoidable. I don't know anyone who uses brakes in their normal driving, and it isn't a fast way round the track.

Make sure your speedo is set with the minimum drag brake setting, or the second setting if using a bonded rotor. Learn to drive without using the brakes, it's faster!!
SlowerOne is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-27-2007, 01:38 PM   #27615
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 133
Default

there is one corner at my track where you HAVE to use brakes with the 12th to make it around the corner ( every other corner you don't need brakes. we don't use tyre additive, or spray anything on the asphalt)

i've managed to set my maximum brake down so it brakes in a straight line (it does it quite effectively!). so just turn down your brakes until it doesnt spin out.

edit: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vFBytUOYTPQ thats some footage one of the guys at the track took (me practicing on sunday just passed with the 12x)

Last edited by drivingpro; 11-27-2007 at 03:15 PM.
drivingpro is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
New to the forum mig rod Electric Off-Road 1 01-05-2008 05:23 PM
hi i need help and im new to the forum racer4 Rookie Zone 4 01-21-2007 02:37 PM
Why is this forum listed under the On Road Forum? sport10 Onroad Nitro Engine Zone 0 01-11-2007 08:06 AM
Forum Changes... futureal Wisconsin & Illinois Racing 3 10-28-2002 09:26 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 01:28 AM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net

SEO by vBSEO 3.5.0