R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

    Hide Wikipost
Old 10-28-2016, 12:43 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: 1/12 forum
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: fenton06
This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

Print Wikipost

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 11-20-2007, 09:23 AM   #27556
Tech Elite
 
Slapmaster6000's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Edmonds, Wash.
Posts: 2,947
Trader Rating: 14 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by alf.skaar View Post
What do you think off this
This have a smal container that have the damping
Alf :-)



More on
T*Star12
It's an interesting idea. Weight is always an enemy. Visually, the lower A-Arm attachment looks heavy. I have considered coming up with a shortened damper tube mounted between the upper and lower ballstuds, but in the end, it would not be much different then lube on the kingpin.... just a lot less need to be serviced on a regular basis.

Since I am going through my "build everything" phase, I built up my first CRC front end last night. The reason you guys maybe going back and forth over damper fluid on the king pin being so radically different may actually be a tolerance issue. The CRC lower kingpin seams to have a bit more play then the Asc/IRS set up. That could easily explain the dampening difference.

bb
Slapmaster6000 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-20-2007, 11:00 AM   #27557
Tech Elite
 
mtveten's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,633
Trader Rating: 27 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Slapmaster6000 View Post
Since I am going through my "build everything" phase, I built up my first CRC front end last night. The reason you guys maybe going back and forth over damper fluid on the king pin being so radically different may actually be a tolerance issue. The CRC lower kingpin seams to have a bit more play then the Asc/IRS set up. That could easily explain the dampening difference.

bb
Thats exactly why most gen-x runners use the heavy kingpin lube on the pro-strut front end. With the extra play you are have to run much thicker lube to get the same dampening or modify parts to use an IRS bushing with a tighter tolerance.


Mark
mtveten is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-20-2007, 04:17 PM   #27558
Tech Elite
 
wallyedmonds's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Brampton ont canada
Posts: 3,662
Default

king pin lube

on my L4 when i ran it i ran 10,000 on it
on the gen-x i go from 10 to 50,000
why it all depends on how much traction there is.
the heavier the lube the less edging the car will do or have a tendency to do.
but with the new front end brace by crc (upper arm long) this will help alot i think and i think that i will go down on the lube wt to maybe 5000.
ill have pics soon so you can see if you like.
iv moded it somewhat,iv added a cross brace that iv had to make of graphite.
i think crc is making one like the older one is with tubes and o rings but i think this is good too or even better and when its available ill get it.
now for the rear tubes 30,000 seems to be the best and is what most are using.
front springs i think is a personal thing and how your driving style is.
wallyedmonds is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-20-2007, 05:30 PM   #27559
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Oslo, Norway
Posts: 237
Default

Slapmaster6000

Both lower arms are 6 grams together.
sow 3 gram one side.

May be i can get it down to 2 gram one side

Alf

Last edited by alf.skaar; 11-20-2007 at 05:46 PM.
alf.skaar is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-20-2007, 09:09 PM   #27560
Tech Elite
 
Slapmaster6000's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Edmonds, Wash.
Posts: 2,947
Trader Rating: 14 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by alf.skaar View Post
Slapmaster6000

Both lower arms are 6 grams together.
sow 3 gram one side.

May be i can get it down to 2 gram one side

Alf
Nice!
Maybe you could show us what is going on inside??? Or is that top secret? What is the main purpose for building them?
Brian
Slapmaster6000 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-21-2007, 12:37 AM   #27561
Tech Master
 
wingman2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Tewkesbury, UK via Plymouth, UK.
Posts: 1,259
Default

I tried to use lube on the kingpins but as soon as the suspension compresses, the ball pushes all the lube sown towards the spring. So what am I doing wrong? Cheers guys.
wingman2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-21-2007, 11:37 AM   #27562
Tech Apprentice
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 62
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by wallyedmonds View Post
gen-x frontend
dont use the alm saddles
use the plastic or graphite ride hight spacer
iv only have broke one arm before

and on the lube thing it makes reaction faster but takes so steering away.
it not really a big deal on the whole setup thing of the car
rear springs and tube lube thickness and shock are more important.
have a play on this
white springs
30000 tube lube
20wt oil in shock
red or copper spring
50 front spring
brace with long upper ball
purple front pink rear
170 rear track
167.5 front track

oh and iv never had a problem with the crc ceramic bearings, very nice
Wally I am going to try your setup this weekend.
What is your ride height and do you run you battery forward or back?
Thanks
IMTK422 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-21-2007, 02:09 PM   #27563
Tech Champion
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Hawaii, USA
Posts: 7,157
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by wingman2 View Post
I tried to use lube on the kingpins but as soon as the suspension compresses, the ball pushes all the lube sown towards the spring. So what am I doing wrong? Cheers guys.
That's just excess lube getting pushed down. There will still be lube on the kingpin giving you some dampening.
InspGadgt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-21-2007, 06:05 PM   #27564
Tech Elite
 
wallyedmonds's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Brampton ont canada
Posts: 3,662
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by IMTK422 View Post
Wally I am going to try your setup this weekend.
What is your ride height and do you run you battery forward or back?
Thanks
forward
this is my setup but i use jaco or crc tires,50 front springs and sometimes the copper shock spring instead of the red.
http://www.teamcrc.com/crc/downloads...enge-Setup.jpg
wallyedmonds is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-21-2007, 06:22 PM   #27565
Tech Apprentice
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 62
Default

thanks wally
IMTK422 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-21-2007, 09:57 PM   #27566
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Just south of where Strange Brew was Filmed.
Posts: 24
Default cycling GP3300's

Hey guys whats the best way to cycle GP 3300's.
__________________
Andy Thomas

"I dont race to feel crappy, I race crappy but feel good!!"
TRX-1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-22-2007, 11:08 AM   #27567
Tech Addict
 
lavaandy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: hood river or.
Posts: 591
Trader Rating: 9 (100%+)
Default 19t

what motor is the best roar 19t motor for 4cell
lavaandy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-22-2007, 11:33 AM   #27568
Tech Champion
 
Scottrik's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Billings, MT
Posts: 6,119
Trader Rating: 237 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by lavaandy View Post
what motor is the best roar 19t motor for 4cell
Here everybody keeps coming back to the Komodo Dragon. Seems the best combination of torque vs. rpm for our racing.
__________________
Congressmen should wear uniforms like NASCAR drivers so we can identify their corporate sponsors.

THE REVOLUTION WILL NOT BE TELEVISED -Gil Scott-Heron (1949-2011)
Scottrik is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-22-2007, 11:35 AM   #27569
Tech Lord
 
protc3's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Spring Hill,Florida
Posts: 10,813
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

same here. The KD is a strong motor
__________________
Jason Breiner
BMI Racing
Team Associated
J Concepts
protc3 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-22-2007, 11:59 AM   #27570
Tech Champion
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Rockville, MD
Posts: 5,058
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

KD for me also
__________________
Steve Walter
Sweep Racing USA/ Speed Passion USA/ Karens Famous Cookies (Transporter)
SRW141 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
New to the forum mig rod Electric Off-Road 1 01-05-2008 05:23 PM
hi i need help and im new to the forum racer4 Rookie Zone 4 01-21-2007 02:37 PM
Why is this forum listed under the On Road Forum? sport10 Onroad Nitro Engine Zone 0 01-11-2007 08:06 AM
Forum Changes... futureal Wisconsin & Illinois Racing 3 10-28-2002 09:26 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 02:44 AM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net

SEO by vBSEO 3.5.0