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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 11-17-2007, 05:58 PM   #27526
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Quote:
Originally Posted by haagar View Post
The new plastic ride height spacers that bolt up through the arm make a huge difference and if you add the carbon fiber brace it is just about bullet proof.

Are you talking about the brace that goes under the lower arm?
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Old 11-17-2007, 07:13 PM   #27527
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chris moore View Post
Are you talking about the brace that goes under the lower arm?
No I sure that haagar is talking about the new cross brace Part # 3277
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Old 11-17-2007, 07:20 PM   #27528
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Have got a CRC T-fource & am awaiting a 12L4 to arrive from fleabay - are the t-bars interchangable & any recommendations on where to purchase them on-line??
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Old 11-17-2007, 08:05 PM   #27529
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Romac View Post
Have any of you had problems with the CRC GenX front end breaking? There are a couple of guys (decent racers) who have had problems with breakage. One guy had to change his front end(not sure of the part name) 3 times last night.

Thanks,

Rob
Never broke a part on my Gen X front end. I have bent king-pins when they weren't threaded in far enough, and have bent axles. Those are easy and cheap replacements. My biggest issue has been with blowing up bearings. I don't like the 3/16 x 5/16 bearings, the outer race is too thin and just breaks way too easily. I wish they'd machine out a new axel out of titanium to accomidate 1/8th bearings.

I may even try machining out some myself.

-Frank
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Old 11-18-2007, 12:17 AM   #27530
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gen-x frontend
dont use the alm saddles
use the plastic or graphite ride hight spacer
iv only have broke one arm before

and on the lube thing it makes reaction faster but takes so steering away.
it not really a big deal on the whole setup thing of the car
rear springs and tube lube thickness and shock are more important.
have a play on this
white springs
30000 tube lube
20wt oil in shock
red or copper spring
50 front spring
brace with long upper ball
purple front pink rear
170 rear track
167.5 front track

oh and iv never had a problem with the crc ceramic bearings, very nice
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Old 11-18-2007, 05:23 AM   #27531
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wallyedmonds View Post
gen-x frontend
dont use the alm saddles
use the plastic or graphite ride hight spacer
iv only have broke one arm before

and on the lube thing it makes reaction faster but takes so steering away.
it not really a big deal on the whole setup thing of the car
rear springs and tube lube thickness and shock are more important.
have a play on this
white springs
30000 tube lube
20wt oil in shock
red or copper spring
50 front spring
brace with long upper ball
purple front pink rear
170 rear track
167.5 front track

oh and iv never had a problem with the crc ceramic bearings, very nice
Wally would this setup work good for stock and what is you ride heights and front camber
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Old 11-18-2007, 06:47 AM   #27532
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Pretty sure Wally's setup is for 19 turn but it should be a good starting point for stock, you might have to tune it for a little more corner speed though.
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Old 11-18-2007, 08:51 AM   #27533
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Where Do i want to True My Tires to for carpet racing
Thanks
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Old 11-18-2007, 10:09 AM   #27534
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1.75 rear and 1.65 front seems to be a good starting place for club racing.
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Old 11-18-2007, 07:47 PM   #27535
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IMTK422 View Post
Wally would this setup work good for stock and what is you ride heights and front camber
camber 2 deg
3.5 ride hight
10 deg caster
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Old 11-18-2007, 11:49 PM   #27536
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I'd just like to support protc3 and respectfully ask people not to follow Wally's advice on 30000 wt oil on kingpins.

The reason the car is more responsive is because the oil allows virtually no initial movement in the suspension, so it whips the chassis round. It might seem a good trait, but you're losing time right through the turn with any set-up like this.

3000 to 5000 are the weights to use depending on your preference for the speed the car settles into the turn.
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Old 11-19-2007, 01:01 AM   #27537
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I have run 30,000 on the front of my Gen-X also. I based my setup off one of the top stock 12th scale racers with many national wins. My car has been pretty good with it.
TQ & win Open class stock invite
2nd B main IIC
8th A main Halloween Classic
1st A main Midwest Carpet On-Road Championships
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Old 11-19-2007, 06:44 AM   #27538
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian L View Post
I have run 30,000 on the front of my Gen-X also. I based my setup off one of the top stock 12th scale racers with many national wins. My car has been pretty good with it.
TQ & win Open class stock invite
2nd B main IIC
8th A main Halloween Classic
1st A main Midwest Carpet On-Road Championships
Can you post your stock setup?
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Old 11-19-2007, 07:17 AM   #27539
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian L View Post
I have run 30,000 on the front of my Gen-X also. I based my setup off one of the top stock 12th scale racers with many national wins. My car has been pretty good with it.
TQ & win Open class stock invite
2nd B main IIC
8th A main Halloween Classic
1st A main Midwest Carpet On-Road Championships
I supose you ran 10 degrees of castor as wally does also. That is some upper arm adjustment. Just kidding. I know he meant reactive castor
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Old 11-19-2007, 10:29 AM   #27540
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Quote:
Originally Posted by protc3 View Post
I supose you ran 10 degrees of castor as wally does also. That is some upper arm adjustment. Just kidding. I know he meant reactive castor
The super heavy kingpin lube seems to be a gen-x front end specific thing. On my AE dynamic front end I found oils in the 3-5K range worked extremely well but in my gen-x I typically use a thick lube around 20K. The king pins in the CRC front end simply don't fit looser in the lower arm bushing and require a thicker lube to get the same feel as the AE.

Mark
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