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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 11-16-2007, 11:35 AM   #27496
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The AE dynamic strut front suspension is designed to run with an angled servo. In this configuration you have zero bump toe and an a significant amount of Ackermann.

On asphalt this is a good thing. It makes the inside wheel turn in hard on low speed corners giving you more steering.

On carpet this is a bad thing because the traction is much higher. You do not need as much Ackermann. All Ackermann does on carpet is hurt corner speed and make the car hook into corners because its dragging the inside wheel past its optimum slip angle.

Running the servo flat generates a lot less Ackermann. This reduces wheel scrub and increases corner speed. The think to watch is the bump toe. The front suspension was not designed to accommodate a servo in the flat configuration so you have to compensate for this.

This is gone by running taller ball studs on your steering spindles. If you run the middle holes on a small Kimbrough servo saver with medium height IRS ball studs on the spindles you will have a small amount of bump toe in. If you run the holes closest to the servo output shaft you will have zero bump steer.

If you do not do this you car will go horribly pigeon toed as the suspension compresses and this will kill your lap times.

So...

Asphalt: Servo Angled

Carpet: Servo Flat (with corrected bump toe)
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Old 11-16-2007, 11:48 AM   #27497
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carl Giordano View Post
can anyone provide a ball-park response to my question below

Could you suggest a roll-out for a the Orion 10.5 and LRP combo...carpet munchin 90x40 size track....

I'm just switching over to the brushless systems and have no clue how to gear these things or profile to use with the speedo...I can see its going to be a long and hopefully not too frustrating carpet season.

Thanks
Carl- The guys at Mimi's are running around 61mm with their 10.5's. Not sure of what brands they are running.
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Old 11-16-2007, 02:21 PM   #27498
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Thanks for the feeback...61mm...for 10.5 brushless is huge...Mini's track is much arger than my local track...I'll try the starting in the 55mm range.

Thansk again to all those who responded to my question.
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Old 11-16-2007, 06:56 PM   #27499
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To eliminate all the bumpsteer, it is ideal to have the upper arm and turnbuckle at the same angle so they are swinging the same arc. This is very difficult to achieve so just get it as close as you can without the wheel rubbing the ballcup when the wheels are turned.
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Old 11-16-2007, 06:56 PM   #27500
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AdrianM

After installation of the flat servo usingf the middle holes of the saver, should the angle between the ballstuds and the saver be;

1) Slightly angled down from ballstud to saver
2) Parallel to chassis
3) Slightly angled up from ballstud to saver

Thanks
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Old 11-16-2007, 07:05 PM   #27501
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Ok, This whole posting before the question is starting to bug me out
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Old 11-16-2007, 08:03 PM   #27502
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rinkrat99 View Post
AdrianM

After installation of the flat servo usingf the middle holes of the saver, should the angle between the ballstuds and the saver be;

1) Slightly angled down from ballstud to saver
2) Parallel to chassis
3) Slightly angled up from ballstud to saver

Thanks
#1
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Old 11-16-2007, 08:29 PM   #27503
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Is it worth milling out the chassis a little to allow the servo to lay flat in a GEN X? That is how I wanted to mount the servo initially, but the chassis doesn't allow it due to having no clearance hole for the saver. I was wary of milling away the chassis.

-Frank
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Old 11-16-2007, 08:36 PM   #27504
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FrankW View Post
Is it worth milling out the chassis a little to allow the servo to lay flat in a GEN X? That is how I wanted to mount the servo initially, but the chassis doesn't allow it due to having no clearance hole for the saver. I was wary of milling away the chassis.

-Frank
Unless you run in insanely high traction don't bother. The Gen X is designed to be a carpet car and CRC has shed excess steering in other places in the design. It better to start out with as much steering as possible with that car and dial it out later. Getting more steering can be difficult.
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Old 11-16-2007, 09:14 PM   #27505
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rinkrat99 View Post
AdrianM

After installation of the flat servo usingf the middle holes of the saver, should the angle between the ballstuds and the saver be;

1) Slightly angled down from ballstud to saver
2) Parallel to chassis
3) Slightly angled up from ballstud to saver

Thanks
Snag with all of these questions and answers is that it will change when you adjust yer ride height. I've just been buggering around with all this and found 1mm ride height adjustment throws all that work out with the bath water. Damm and blast. So now I'll hunt the compromise or just work harder so I can afford millions of front wheels so I can just run one size !!

Strooth !!

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Old 11-16-2007, 09:56 PM   #27506
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I first want to say I have limited inexperience's with all of this ,however I have learned that there is a specific process or order of operations you need to follow to do setup work on any car. tires ride height toe camber are all related to this topic. this should be a link to give you helpful setup guidelines. http://home.scarlet.be/~be067749/58/
I've been watching these threads for quite some time and find that Adrian,Jason,scottrik and a bunch of other s knowledge is solid.You have to decide for yourself if you want to apply it to what works for you.best of luck racin.

Sean C.
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Old 11-16-2007, 10:43 PM   #27507
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Quote:
Originally Posted by protc3 View Post
Wally,

Do you mean 3,000 on the king pins or do you really use 30,000?
30,000
on my gen-x i us 50,000 on the front king pins.
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Old 11-17-2007, 01:00 AM   #27508
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Default Corally SP12X Question

For those running Corally out there are you having problems with the steering knuckles breaking easily?

What are the other front ends you are running on the car?

Rob
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Old 11-17-2007, 02:07 AM   #27509
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Personally I've been running Corally cars for many years now but haven't had any issues nor seen with the blocks at all.

I run the stock Corally X front end, but everyone is running any kind of front suspension they like or think look nice .
Corally, Asso, CRC are the most common used front ends.

Good luck and have fun....
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Old 11-17-2007, 02:12 AM   #27510
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For something more conventional, the industry standard Associated front end is popular. Thats what David Spashett used to win the worlds a while ago. The CRC pro strut front end is worth a shot too!!!

-Korey
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