R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

    Hide Wikipost
Old 10-28-2016, 12:43 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: 1/12 forum
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: fenton06
This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

Print Wikipost

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 11-13-2007, 09:30 PM   #27436
Tech Master
 
CarlosG.'s Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Falls City,TX
Posts: 1,145
Trader Rating: 12 (100%+)
Send a message via Yahoo to CarlosG.
Default

I just like to see alittle more meat on my tires. I run my tires 49mm in the rear and 47mm in the front to start off with. I can usually get a months worth of racing every saturday. The prizms remind me to much of CRC's High Rollers. Which leaves very little tire for me to use. I have become a budget racer lately. So the idea of running a tire like that is not feasable. I also don't have a problem with the legacy tire chunking, just peeling off the outer edge. I run them down to 41.5mm in the front and 42mm in the rear to use later for carpet racing. So they have to last me awhile.

Going fast is not the problem with the size I use. I just need driving lessons for that to get faster. That is another issue. However, I run my tires right now at club races, and they have to last since the drive to go racing cost me more in gas for the month than the tires for the 12th scale.
CarlosG. is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-13-2007, 10:12 PM   #27437
Tech Master
 
Car Breaker's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Grave Yard
Posts: 1,251
Trader Rating: 10 (100%+)
Default

what is the best place to get 1/12th tire online ?
Car Breaker is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-13-2007, 11:51 PM   #27438
Tech Champion
 
Scottrik's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Billings, MT
Posts: 6,122
Trader Rating: 238 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by CarlosG. View Post
I just like to see alittle more meat on my tires. I run my tires 49mm in the rear and 47mm in the front to start off with.
Are you listening? Obviously not because you just lobbed that one straight into the sweet spot of my argument.

These tires start out a whopping 1mm smaller in the rear than where you start out with the "legacy" tires. If you run them down to 42mm outdoors you were getting 7mm of "use" and the new tires you'd get 6mm of use. That's "giving up" 1 of your 7mm. 1 divided by 7 is...lemme see...carry the two...ah yes, a bit over 14%. THE NEW TIRES ARE SELLING FOR AT LEAST 25% LESS THAN THE OLD TIRES SOLD FOR. Your tires are costing you less, you're belly-aching over nothing. And that completely ignores the further use you're putting them to later on carpet which is, economically, icing on the cake. As I said the first time, you are psyching yourself out because it LOOKS like a lot less meat. The purely economic reality does not bear this out, plus you get to go faster all the while. How many other times do you get to have your cake and eat it too?

I'm not sure why you run 1/4 the split (size difference front/rear) when the tires are worn vs. when they're new (you start w/2mm yet finish with .5mm) but I'll honor that. The economic argument at the front is weaker but still demonstrably "even" compared to the old and, overall, saving money if economics is what powers your argument. Using your numbers you're "giving up" 1.5mm of the 5.5mm you had to use on the small wheels. That's a hint over 27%, still within the price savings range of the new tires vs. the old tires and, again, before you continue use on carpet which only strengthens my argument.

The reason I've heard that the new tires are selling for less is that there's less of the expensive rubber on them--rubber that was below (not above) what you were ever able to run the old tires OR new. There is a minimum diameter that keeps you above minimum ride height, and everything smaller than that that is foam is wasted rubber. I don't care what chassis you run, you ain't runnin' your tires down to 38mm AND maintaining 3mm clearance even on a 2mm chassis. With the new IRS front arms you can run the tires down to the rims even with the older "small" rims but the split is so far off from the rear at that point it's not worthwhile. On my 2.5mm chassis cars I call it a day (throw them in the garbage) when the rears get down to 41-41.5mm...at that point I've fallen to 3-3.5mm ride height with the IRS 3.5mm spacer down in my lowered plates. At that point the new larger wheels still have 1.5-2mm sidewalls.

And they go faster. What's not to like?
__________________
Congressmen should wear uniforms like NASCAR drivers so we can identify their corporate sponsors.

THE REVOLUTION WILL NOT BE TELEVISED -Gil Scott-Heron (1949-2011)

Last edited by Scottrik; 11-14-2007 at 06:04 AM.
Scottrik is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-14-2007, 01:46 AM   #27439
Uga
Tech Regular
 
Uga's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: By the Baltic Sea
Posts: 438
Default

I have never had my old jaco tires worn down, I get them chunked before, so the new prisms last me abut the same as the old tires and they are ready to race out of box. I usualy start with a new set on practice, after that I can even them out on truer and the tires are ready for the race! And they look betteer too..
__________________
-=Xray XB4=-
-=Xray T4=-
-=Schumacher Cougar KF2=-
Racing in Latvia
Uga is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-14-2007, 05:15 AM   #27440
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Oslo, Norway
Posts: 237
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Car Breaker View Post
what is the best place to get 1/12th tire online ?
If you are after Jaco, i think that BMI is a good place.

Alf
alf.skaar is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-14-2007, 05:24 AM   #27441
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Oslo, Norway
Posts: 237
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by SMOKESHOW86 View Post
I am running stock, a monster horsepower if that makes a difference
First thing i will do is to change the front tiers
no mather what you do whit the rest, if you don't
have enough bit in the fronts, setup change will not fix
it, will only take away somthing and give you somthing else.

Alf
alf.skaar is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-14-2007, 05:36 AM   #27442
Tech Adept
 
corally's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: italy
Posts: 118
Default Tyre for apahalt

Hi

i buy a L4 and wont use on asphalt track, JACO pink front and White rear is a good solution?

Please help me.
corally is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-14-2007, 06:04 AM   #27443
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 241
Default

Quote:
i buy a L4 and wont use on asphalt track, JACO pink front and White rear is a good solution?
Probably not, unless this is what the local experienced racers have found works best on your track. White is generally considered to be a carpet tire.

Most asphalt setups in the U.S. use pink or magenta rears and magenta or double pink fronts.

Best thing is get advice from the racers with experience at your local track.
Larry Brown is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-14-2007, 06:16 AM   #27444
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Posts: 793
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by wallyedmonds View Post
you guys may want to try GQ tires outside,there foam is like sedan tire foam and i was told work very well.
and there cheap too i think.
Right now, I think the Prism's are about as economical as any tire on the market. Also (not directed at you Wally) be careful of anyone who says brand x is better on asphalt because they use "gas car rubber". Almost all of the rubber is gas car rubber with the exception of white, yellow, gray, and black.
Jack Rimer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-14-2007, 08:08 AM   #27445
Tech Elite
 
Carl Giordano's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Upper Saddle RIver, NJ
Posts: 2,181
Trader Rating: 18 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by senna555 View Post
Carl,

Go with the Orion or Peak motors...come with sintered rotors and go with an lrp speedo if you can. That seems to be the hot combo at rcmadness.

Jamie

Jamie. (or anyone else)

Could you suggest a roll-out for a the Orion 10.5 and LRP combo...carpet munchin 90x40 size track....

I'm just switching over to the brushless systems and have no clue how to gear these things or profile to use with the speedo...I can see its going to be a long and hopefully not too frustrating carpet season.
__________________
Mugen Racing / OS Engines / KO Propo / Byron Fuels / TOP Racing / Schuur Speed Motors / AKA / Bruckner Hobbies / Tamiya M-Chassis / Kyosho RB6
Carl Giordano is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-14-2007, 01:47 PM   #27446
Tech Addict
 
Bruce Grembowski's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Washougal, WA
Posts: 617
Trader Rating: 6 (100%+)
Questions?? Magenta or Ping?

I just bought a pair of Team CRC "Track Magents" for my RC12L, the Pro-Cuts. It says they magenta, but the dot on them looks like it's pink. Is there any way to test the shore on tires? These are part number CLN #2171.

TIA,
Grem
__________________
Bruce Grembowski, ROAR #11-115675
Timezone Hooligans (http://www.timezoneracing.com)
Rose City Scale Racing (http://www.rosecityscaleracing.com)
Bruce Grembowski is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-14-2007, 01:54 PM   #27447
sg1
Tech Elite
 
sg1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Ohio
Posts: 2,777
Trader Rating: 79 (100%+)
Default

A durometer works great. Are you sure about the part number? That number is just the rims.
Wayne
__________________
**Team Scream**Parma/PSE**TQ Wire**Roche**Pemberton**BSR**Graupner/GM**SXT**
sg1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-14-2007, 02:04 PM   #27448
Tech Adept
 
jarkkom's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: helsinki, finland
Posts: 208
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Send a message via MSN to jarkkom
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Grem View Post
I just bought a pair of Team CRC "Track Magents" for my RC12L, the Pro-Cuts. It says they magenta, but the dot on them looks like it's pink.
Heh, the CRC pink and magenta color stickers are very close to each other. You can only tell the difference if you look the both of them at the same time. Better write your own marks on the wheel anyway.
__________________
www.eurorc.com/?ad=jm

Last edited by jarkkom; 11-14-2007 at 02:04 PM. Reason: typo
jarkkom is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-14-2007, 02:26 PM   #27449
Tech Adept
 
corally's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: italy
Posts: 118
Default

Thanks Larry

i live on Italy....no 1:12 drivers....and only few on carpet...

next week i try .... hope i have luck...

for spring/oil on schock absorber ?
front spring?
T-bar?
corally is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-14-2007, 02:35 PM   #27450
Tech Champion
 
Scottrik's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Billings, MT
Posts: 6,122
Trader Rating: 238 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by jarkkom View Post
Heh, the CRC pink and magenta color stickers are very close to each other. You can only tell the difference if you look the both of them at the same time. Better write your own marks on the wheel anyway.
Men shouldn't be able to tell the difference between pink and magenta anyway. Or lilac vs. purple vs. violet.

Quote:
Originally Posted by sg1 View Post
A durometer works great. Are you sure about the part number? That number is just the rims.
The rubber on 1/12 tires, especially on the new "big wheels", is too thin to accurately test with any durometers I've seen/used. It compresses down too close to/into the wheel. I'd wager that with my trusty MaxMod durometer that all compounds on the new Prism wheels would register the same.
__________________
Congressmen should wear uniforms like NASCAR drivers so we can identify their corporate sponsors.

THE REVOLUTION WILL NOT BE TELEVISED -Gil Scott-Heron (1949-2011)
Scottrik is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
New to the forum mig rod Electric Off-Road 1 01-05-2008 05:23 PM
hi i need help and im new to the forum racer4 Rookie Zone 4 01-21-2007 02:37 PM
Why is this forum listed under the On Road Forum? sport10 Onroad Nitro Engine Zone 0 01-11-2007 08:06 AM
Forum Changes... futureal Wisconsin & Illinois Racing 3 10-28-2002 09:26 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 8 (2 members and 6 guests)
hydro111, TOADYY
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 09:27 PM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net

SEO by vBSEO 3.5.0