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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 11-13-2007, 06:28 AM   #27421
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I am running stock, a monster horsepower if that makes a difference
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Old 11-13-2007, 09:06 AM   #27422
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Try running both caster shimms to the rear-> less caster
Less caster -> more steering into the corner, less out of the corner.
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Old 11-13-2007, 11:08 AM   #27423
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Quote:
Try running both caster shimms to the rear-> less caster
I believe this should be shims to the front-> less caster. Pro ten is correct that less caster will help initiate the turn while giving you less exit steering.
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Old 11-13-2007, 11:19 AM   #27424
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Originally Posted by Larry Brown View Post
I believe this should be shims to the front-> less caster. Pro ten is correct that less caster will help initiate the turn while giving you less exit steering.
You are correct.
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Old 11-13-2007, 11:25 AM   #27425
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Quote:
Originally Posted by protc3 View Post
The L4 is a very good car to start out with. It is the least expensive car and is still winning races. It can easily be turned into a real tricked out machine with all the upgrades available but i would leave it stock to see if 1/12th is for you.

Parts you will want in your pit box is T bars. If you are running carpet you will want both .063 and .075. For asphalt stay with the .062.Replace the stock front axles with Parmas or lunsfords. Also carry front springs,kingpins and upper turnbuckles. Other than that the cars are very durable
Quote:
Originally Posted by protc3 View Post
T bar cars are real good. Some guys like the link cars and some dont. All in all they are all great cars. There is no car out right now that cant win. They are all in contention
This is what I love. Here is a man who has invested pretty heavily to "have a horse in this race" yet instead of grinding his own axe when a question comes up he provides solid, honest information and feedback. There's a man I would listen to.

Kudos Jason!
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Old 11-13-2007, 02:37 PM   #27426
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Thanks buddy
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Old 11-13-2007, 04:49 PM   #27427
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tty_wai View Post
anyone tried the GRP foam for outdoor asphalt? is it better than Jaco?

GRP used to make all Trinity's stuff and still makes all Parma's stuff. They are really good.
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Old 11-13-2007, 04:55 PM   #27428
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark Stiles View Post
What do you base your thinking on?

T-bar cars are far more popular across the pond in the UK, and all our nationals are on carpet. The top 2 at the worlds were also t-bar designs (corally and associated), and so was the euros winner (hot-bodies).
on a low grip track a t plate car seems to be better at the high level race
on high grip tracks a link car is easier to drive IMO
and there is no t plate to brake.
the bmi car may seem to be a link car but its not,its a L link that is totally different on how it works or seems to work.
all 1/12 cars today work but its what you like and understand how each car works.

i ran the L car for years but then i got a gen-x and was way happier
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Old 11-13-2007, 05:00 PM   #27429
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I just wish Jaco still made dbl pinks and pinks in thier original rims. I found out that the prisms are the only way to get them now. I just don't like them since it leaves them to be kinda a one to two weekend tire run on asphalt. It leaves me with one less option on on tire company to buy. I liked the Jaco tires. I have had better luck with them, but now
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Old 11-13-2007, 05:26 PM   #27430
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On lower bite asphalt i like the Magenta front and rear in the prisms. They are a little softer than double pink and have less slip to them to slow down tire wear.
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Old 11-13-2007, 06:09 PM   #27431
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you guys may want to try GQ tires outside,there foam is like sedan tire foam and i was told work very well.
and there cheap too i think.
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Old 11-13-2007, 06:25 PM   #27432
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Hey guys. Red bumpers just showed up at the Slapmaster Shop. Now you can dress your CRC & Corally's in style..... and then bash them senseless The red bumpers are #105R, the traditional black ones are just #105. The bumper was recut some to reduce sanding/cutting around the front suspension. The are cut and sanded so that a Speed 8 & 12 fit nicely.

Brian
www.slapmastertools.com
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Old 11-13-2007, 09:00 PM   #27433
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Originally Posted by CarlosG. View Post
I just wish Jaco still made dbl pinks and pinks in thier original rims. I found out that the prisms are the only way to get them now. I just don't like them since it leaves them to be kinda a one to two weekend tire run on asphalt. It leaves me with one less option on on tire company to buy. I liked the Jaco tires. I have had better luck with them, but now
Carlos,

I think you're getting psyched out looking at how "thin" the rubber is on the wheel, but what's there is the "meat" of what most folks use on the small rim tires. The Prism's are cut to 48mm+ rear and 45mm+ front, if you're running the "legacy" tires taller than that you're playing with false economy as your handling is compromised and tall sidewalls are MUCH more succeptible to chunking.

It turns out the Prism's start at exactly what I trued my "legacy" tires down to for club use and they'll go down to the same 41-42mm rear that was max adjustment down with my rear pod on the earlier tires.

PLUS...the street price is running 2/3-3/4 what tires had been running. It's like racing for free. Well...almost.
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Old 11-13-2007, 09:10 PM   #27434
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Originally Posted by CarlosG. View Post
I just wish Jaco still made dbl pinks and pinks in thier original rims. I found out that the prisms are the only way to get them now. I just don't like them since it leaves them to be kinda a one to two weekend tire run on asphalt. It leaves me with one less option on on tire company to buy. I liked the Jaco tires. I have had better luck with them, but now
The lower profile tires are faster...racers want to go faster at all costs no matter what they say. This is why touring cars went from fun parking lot racers to super technical critical racing machines. This is why 1/10th pan went from the most popular class in R/C to extinction.

When I started racing we had 3 foam tires...Blue, Green and Yellow. We raced 1200SCR Red Sanyos cell that would last 2 years or more and still be fast.

Now everything is faster, gets used up faster, worn out faster and is more expensive...but that what we racers wanted.
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Old 11-13-2007, 09:24 PM   #27435
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AdrianM View Post
The lower profile tires are faster...racers want to go faster at all costs no matter what they say. This is why touring cars went from fun parking lot racers to super technical critical racing machines. This is why 1/10th pan went from the most popular class in R/C to extinction.

When I started racing we had 3 foam tires...Blue, Green and Yellow. We raced 1200SCR Red Sanyos cell that would last 2 years or more and still be fast.

Now everything is faster, gets used up faster, worn out faster and is more expensive...but that what we racers wanted.
the good old days eh
i remember 1100 sanyos
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