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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 11-11-2007, 02:41 AM   #27391
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kane-o View Post
Hey all,
I have 2 questions for everyone:

1) What is a good starting rollout for a 12 double motor on a small to medium-sized carpet track (I was guessing 39-40mm)

2) For all those running the new Jaco prisms what seems to be the hot setup for compunds? Also, the same question goes for the CRC Procuts.

Thanks,
Kane
Your guess is about right, and will vary depending on the wind. I have a 12D that goes well on 44, and a 12S that goes best on 40.

Check the amount on timing you use. Anything from 6 to 12deg works depending on the motor, and this needs to be taken into account when gearing. HTH
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Old 11-11-2007, 10:40 AM   #27392
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Sounds great, thanks for the help.
-Kane
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Old 11-11-2007, 11:12 AM   #27393
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Originally Posted by CarlosG. View Post
Does anybody know if any of the Hyperform Razor kits or conversion kits are still available? I have the old version and I don't want to use it for racing, but looking for a conversion kit to convert a 12l4 that I got cheap to a Hyperform car. Any information would be greatly appreciated.
Hi Carlos,

I would give Heath at Maximus R/C Raceway a call. There was some talk around when Lino passed away that he had parts and kits in stock but nobody was sure what his family intended to do with the business. Heath was somewhat close to Lino and his family after he passed away so he might be able to point you in the right direction.

http://www.teammaximus.com

Nick
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Old 11-11-2007, 11:34 AM   #27394
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Originally Posted by andrewdoherty View Post
OD-

You have any inside tutorial info on counter-boring the back side of the spindle to allow the old skool front axle to protrude farther out from the steering spindle, thus allowing a wider front width with shims behind the wheel?

Or anyone for that matter.
I've never attempted that modification before, although it sounds easy enough to do. Drill a hole in the back of the steering block big enough to clear the e clip or nut to a measured depth so the axle sticks out of the other side farther.

There's another, and I think better, way to get a wider front track. This works for any style of front end:
For the wheels that use unflanged bearings (like Jaco wraps), take a 5/16" propeller reamer and cut down the outer edge of the flange in the bore of the wheel that stops/locates the bearing. The amount you cut off will determine how much you will widen the front track, then put the same amount of spacers behind the wheel.
For wheels that use flanged bearings (like Parma) use a 3/8" prop reamer and make a counter sink where the flange rests on the outside of the wheel. Then space the wheel out as mentioned above.
In either case, if you move the outer bearing in by, say, 1mm; the track will be 2mm wider
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Old 11-11-2007, 05:24 PM   #27395
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Quote:
Originally Posted by odpurple View Post
I've never attempted that modification before, although it sounds easy enough to do. Drill a hole in the back of the steering block big enough to clear the e clip or nut to a measured depth so the axle sticks out of the other side farther.

There's another, and I think better, way to get a wider front track. This works for any style of front end:
For the wheels that use unflanged bearings (like Jaco wraps), take a 5/16" propeller reamer and cut down the outer edge of the flange in the bore of the wheel that stops/locates the bearing. The amount you cut off will determine how much you will widen the front track, then put the same amount of spacers behind the wheel.
For wheels that use flanged bearings (like Parma) use a 3/8" prop reamer and make a counter sink where the flange rests on the outside of the wheel. Then space the wheel out as mentioned above.
In either case, if you move the outer bearing in by, say, 1mm; the track will be 2mm wider
I knew I could count on you guys! Thanks. I have enough steering blocks I might try counterboring it. If it works I'd rather do the adjustment once on the block rather than every time on the wheels . . .we'll see. : )
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Old 11-11-2007, 08:38 PM   #27396
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Thanks Nick, for the information. I will give them a call.
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Old 11-11-2007, 09:26 PM   #27397
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You can also put Losi or Associated plastic .030 spacers behind the flange on Lundsford axles, since they thread in. You won't get the nyloc nut on the back side of the steering block, but a thin regular nut may fit depending on the amount of spacers you use.
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Old 11-11-2007, 09:32 PM   #27398
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Originally Posted by senna555 View Post
Carl,

Go with the Orion or Peak motors...come with sintered rotors and go with an lrp speedo if you can. That seems to be the hot combo at rcmadness.

Jamie
Thnaks Jamie,

I just ordered a few Orion 10.5 motors and already have an LRP brushless speedo in my Rev 4.5. (see photo in post 27346 on th eprevious page)

Question. I currrently have the original LRP competition sphere SC and just ordered a '07 version. What the difference besides the number of programs...or is that all?

Also, haw are you guys rolling out the Orion 10.5. Going to race at Donny and Sal's new track, 360 Sppedway...I beleive is larger than RCmadness.

Thanks for your help
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Old 11-12-2007, 11:12 AM   #27399
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You can also put Losi or Associated plastic .030 spacers behind the flange on Lundsford axles, since they thread in. You won't get the nyloc nut on the back side of the steering block, but a thin regular nut may fit depending on the amount of spacers you use.
Which lunsford axles are used for this?
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Old 11-12-2007, 11:48 AM   #27400
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Which lunsford axles are used for this?

http://www.lunsfordracing.com/mm5/me...gory_Code=AXEL
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Old 11-12-2007, 12:18 PM   #27401
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Hey guys. What bumper would you recommend for a CRC 3.2R?
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Old 11-12-2007, 12:21 PM   #27402
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Hey harold, Try the parma one. It's available at 360 Racetrack!
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Old 11-12-2007, 12:39 PM   #27403
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Hey harold, Try the parma one. It's available at 360 Racetrack!

Thanks Alex. This 1/12 scale is kinda new to me. Now TC is another story..

Hey with the parma one. Is it a direct fit or do I have to cut it out?
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Old 11-12-2007, 01:29 PM   #27404
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ok guys i just got a cefx evo2 and i dont know how to set my ride height it needs to 4.0 mm all around right now the front is at 4.5 and the rear is at like 6.5mm
P.S where do u check the rear ride height under the pod bottom oplate on on the chassie thanks
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Old 11-12-2007, 01:43 PM   #27405
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For the front, use spacers under the front suspension. CRC has a kit with 3 different size shims.

For the Rear, I use IRS ride height adjusters.
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...SM&C=CMZ&V=IRR

As far a measuring, I do the front at the very front of the chassis, the rear I do at the lower pod plate between the sidepods. You also want to check the ride height at the rear of the main chassis plate, this height you adjust with the center spring.
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