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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 11-06-2007, 12:09 AM   #27316
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Its no fun when you beat people by three laps..maybe a new challenge is what i need.
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Old 11-06-2007, 12:15 AM   #27317
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scottrik View Post
I'd also say you are rolled-out WAY big for brushed stock if 64.5mm is your tire size and not a typo. Did you mean 46.5? With the info you've given you're at 64mm roll-out which is headed into brushless territory and even then only with 4200's. On our club track (40 X 65 with 8-10' lanes) I roll my Stocks out in the 45-50mm range depending on layout. I'm not particularly aggressive on roll-out but 64mm on 3300 cells is WAY too high for any layout I've ever seen.

Double-check your tire diameter--TC tires are in the mid-high 50's. 1/12 tires are generally in the mid-high 40's. I don't think I've even seen DONUTS that were 64mm.
Ok, sorry, they are 46.5. I charge my batteries a second time and they seem to be charging fine now. I set my cutoff at 3mv per cell and they peaked and were luke warm. I am sure hoping they are ok as I have 15 brand new 4 cells.

Another question is what weight gearbox oil should I use in my dampner tubes, I have 50,000 but that may be to thick? I appreciate the help.
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Old 11-06-2007, 06:39 PM   #27318
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18 gauge is good for 1/12 mod 19t stock.
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Old 11-06-2007, 06:41 PM   #27319
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kropy View Post
Wally, I thought you were older than that
the Canadian heath care system
so great
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Old 11-06-2007, 06:43 PM   #27320
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TRX-1 View Post
Ok, sorry, they are 46.5. I charge my batteries a second time and they seem to be charging fine now. I set my cutoff at 3mv per cell and they peaked and were luke warm. I am sure hoping they are ok as I have 15 brand new 4 cells.

Another question is what weight gearbox oil should I use in my dampner tubes, I have 50,000 but that may be to thick? I appreciate the help.
run 20000 to 30000 in the tubes of a gen-x
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Old 11-06-2007, 07:52 PM   #27321
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which 4200-4300 cells last the longest (discharge wise)

as my ib4200s have flaked really bad for pro12. and i have to go half throttle the whole time to last the race

do you guys running 1/12th just buy new IB4200s every 1-2 months, or?

I'm thinking of getting some 4300 GP batts. don't care for voltage, just need to last the 8 minutes without holding back and will last more than a month or 2!.

currently getting 2600 discharge out of my IB4200s
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Old 11-06-2007, 08:27 PM   #27322
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I have no problems at all with my IB4200s. I bought them last year in October, raced them about every other week through mid-May, raced once over the summer, and now back into the indoor season starting mid last month.

I have taken care of them pretty much as Danny from SMC told me. Charge at 6amps to a .20mv peak. After a run I discharge on my Integy 0-30 until the lights go out and then equalize down to .5v on my Battery Doctors (Danny had recommended .9 on the Novak). Then it depends how long until my next race. If racing the next weekend I charge 500 seconds at 6amps. If two or more weeks I charge all the way to peak. Then before the next race I discharge whatever remains and equalize as above, then charge at 6amps.

My batteries are PLENTY powerful, no one passes me on the straight. Now if I could just learn to drive...

The challenge with the IB4200s is they self-discharge faster than pretty much anything we've ever seen in RC. That 500 sec "maintenance" charge will not light the lights on my 0-30 after much more than a week.

Yeah, they need more maintenance, but we racers have gotten pretty much EXACTLY what we asked for. The "ultimate race cell" in terms of voltage and internal resistance. Unfortunately the other side of that sword is a battery that requires more upkeep. Just like a Toyota F-1 engine requires more maintenance than the engine in your Camry.
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Old 11-06-2007, 09:06 PM   #27323
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Mine are fine too. I can run 8min flat out with a 5.5 LRP BL system and I still have battery left.

The latest care from IB4200's is to keep them charged all the time. They seem to last if you do that. I repeak all may packs one a week to keep them topped off.
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Old 11-06-2007, 09:10 PM   #27324
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Hi everyone,

I've two questions, one about stock motor, the second about ESC and wires.

First - motor: I want (club race rules and need to learn to drive) s stock motor and ask the LHS about an EPIC 27 single (as mentioned with club race rules) and two were available, the Epic X and the Epic XX, one without bearing, the other with. I check in Stormer website and was stuck about the amount of motor available.

Could you mention some motor use during club race and if thay have bearing?

Second - ESC & Wires:I need to wires cleanly my speedo (used QC2) and the wires are actually 13 gauges (one got this mentioned, others have the same diamater).

wallyedmonds said that:
Quote:
18 gauge is good for 1/12 mod 19t stock.
And Kane-o said:
Quote:
16 gauge is ideal for 1/12 as it doesn't cause tweak issues. I run 16 gauge with an 8 turn motor with no issues so it will be fine with your 13.5
But that's seem super small wires diamater. There are also some topics dedicated to ESC and wiring but they confuse me more than something else.

Do I have to wire again with 13 gauges or should I go for 12, 14, 16 or 18 gauges?

Thanks for all inputs regarding those two points.
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Old 11-06-2007, 09:17 PM   #27325
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16 is good too
most now run 18 but it is harder to find.
even in BL some guys run 18 but i run 16 for BL,why idono
13 is for TC coz of the amp draw.
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Old 11-06-2007, 11:32 PM   #27326
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Arn0 - 16 or 18 gauge is fine, choose whichever you can get most easily. 12th cars draw much less peak current than 10th cars (On or Off-Road) and on average throughout the the race they draw 30% less current at any given time. I use 16g, brushed or brushless. HTH
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Old 11-07-2007, 12:25 AM   #27327
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drivingpro
my ib4200s have flaked really bad for pro12
if you are looking into some new cells, might be worth hanging on to see how these new "Chemically Stable" Super high output cells from Orion are, when they come out in a couple of weeks...
Full article Here
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1/12 forum-teamorion4200sho.jpg  
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Old 11-07-2007, 12:55 AM   #27328
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Hey all,
I am having some issues with my batteries as they are getting old and despite cycling can't get them much past 4000mah. So until I get new cells I need to get the 8 turn I typically run out of my 1/12 scale so I don't dump (my last race I dumped at 7min). I am going to throw a 19T in and want to know what knd of rollout you guys are running for a small to medium sized carpet track.
Thanks,
Kane
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Old 11-07-2007, 01:57 AM   #27329
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kane-o View Post
Hey all,
I am having some issues with my batteries as they are getting old and despite cycling can't get them much past 4000mah. So until I get new cells I need to get the 8 turn I typically run out of my 1/12 scale so I don't dump (my last race I dumped at 7min). I am going to throw a 19T in and want to know what knd of rollout you guys are running for a small to medium sized carpet track.
Thanks,
Kane

There are many 19t motors, all of which require different gearing. Post which motor you are using and someone will give you a rollout.
PS your batteries need to be replaced
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Old 11-07-2007, 02:07 AM   #27330
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbsmith1 View Post
if you are looking into some new cells, might be worth hanging on to see how these new "Chemically Stable" Super high output cells from Orion are, when they come out in a couple of weeks...
Full article Here
And what proof do you have that these "chemically stable" Orion cells are better then lets say IB4200wc or the almighty GP4600 (these lasted about 2 months -> still charge to about a whopping 3500mAh ).
These cells arent around long enough to prove them stable... I'm putting my bet on EP4200 at the moment and hope these last longer then the GPs.
Time will tell me if they're ok but at least I heard some good things about these.
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