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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 10-28-2007, 09:23 PM   #27256
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Arn0 View Post
78tooth spur gear exist in both 48 pitch and 64 pitch

4178 Super 64 Pitch 78 Teeth machined spur gear
http://www.robinsonracing.com/catalog/64pitchspur.html

1878 Super Pro 48 Pitch 78T machined spur gear
http://www.robinsonracing.com/catalog/48pitchspur.html
Yes their do exist, ran one last night and it help alot.
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Old 10-29-2007, 05:35 AM   #27257
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Hi guys,

referring to what jarkkom wrote a week ago, we had a successful meeting week ago at the Rebellion Race in Finland. 1/12th scale mod saw very high level racing as also Snowbirds winner Marc Fisher and Italian star Federico Sala joined the race among Simo Ahoniemi, Teemu Saarinen and most of the top drivers from Finland!

I managed to won all practice and qualifying rounds and took TQ ahead of Simo, Teemu in 3rd. Marc Fisher was running ion about 2nd to 4th spot in qualifying but he had some problems in the end and did not make the A main. Another CR’07 driver Henry Salmen took 4th place after qualifying with Jukka Penttinen bringing the third Ripper to the A-main.

In finals I had good and clean runs and won led the finals from start to finish and set the fastest lap of the race by 0.1s to Simo.

Final results
1 2 Vesa Yli 2 1 1 10 Carpet Ripper
2 4 Teemu Saarinen 4 3 3 1
3 1 Simo Ahoniemi 4 2 2 9
4 8 Ari Salminen 6 4 4 2
5 39 Ari Lappi 8 6 5 3
6 7 Veini Mäkinen 10 7 6 4
7 22 Nappe Fager 10 5 8 5
8 91 Jukka Penttinen 13 9 7 6 Carpet Ripper
9 32 Henry Salmen 15 8 10 7 Carpet Ripper
10 3 Tony Raikas 17 10 9 8


some photos:

http://kuusinen.pp.fi/M%e4nts%e4l%e4...%202007/album/


and other report and news...
www.v-dezign.net

Looking forward for the next races!

-Vesa
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Last edited by Vesa; 10-29-2007 at 07:38 AM.
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Old 10-29-2007, 07:47 AM   #27258
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Originally Posted by chris moore View Post
For both stock and 19t Jason?
We only run 19 turn down here on asphalt. for stock i would go with 2x pink rear and purple or lilac front.
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Old 10-29-2007, 01:23 PM   #27259
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Hi guys,
-Vesa
Great!!, i will see you in Eskil

Are you still running the 5.5 LRP stock motor whit the bound rotor ?

I have a new car this time to :-)

Alf
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Old 10-29-2007, 04:32 PM   #27260
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Originally Posted by Arn0 View Post
78tooth spur gear exist in both 48 pitch and 64 pitch

4178 Super 64 Pitch 78 Teeth machined spur gear
http://www.robinsonracing.com/catalog/64pitchspur.html

1878 Super Pro 48 Pitch 78T machined spur gear
http://www.robinsonracing.com/catalog/48pitchspur.html
they also make a 81 #4181 but I ordered several of the 78 just incase I wanted to run a 4300
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Old 10-29-2007, 11:24 PM   #27261
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quick question... what are the advantages/disadvantages between the old skool vs. AE dynamic type? and what conditions would each be preferred to use?
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Old 10-30-2007, 08:39 PM   #27262
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To continue on spur gear and pinion, I got a 72 tooth (48dp) spur gear and need to order some pinions. I will run stock on a 74ftx34ft carpet indoor track.
As read previously, that something around 1.5 to 1.75 work is rather good for a 36 ft x 58 ft track. So I'm guessing to need the pinions form 16 to 21 tooth. Does that sound good?

Also, will that fit correctly on a RC12L3/L4? A 78 tooth 64dp might be smaller than a 72 tooth 48dp so....
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Old 10-31-2007, 08:35 AM   #27263
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Default power cap.

Could someone explain to me how a power cap works, and do I need one?
I'm using the LRP Quantum 2 speedo with 27t and 19t motors.

Also, are any of you using a receiver battery?

Thanks in advance.

-Steve
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Old 10-31-2007, 09:22 AM   #27264
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Could someone explain to me how a power cap works, and do I need one?
I'm using the LRP Quantum 2 speedo with 27t and 19t motors.

Also, are any of you using a receiver battery?

Thanks in advance.

-Steve

Without going into all of the goary details (and starting a big discussion), the power cap helps the speed contro run more efficiently and reduces stress on some parts of the speedo. The cap helps things run cooler, normally gives you more punch, and can reduce runtime because more power gets to the motor..

I run a receiver pack off and on but with runtime being less of an issue, I'm going to try running without for the weight save. I have plenty of new cells so if you want any drop me a PM.
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Old 10-31-2007, 11:37 PM   #27265
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Looks like w might be getting an indoor carpet track back here. I am wanting to run 1/12 pan. The initial class is 4c stock motor brushed or brushless. I am really leaning torwards brushless since thats what i run in off road. The local guys putting this together are talking about doing a 15 min main money race. Pretty much no rules, ie-any car any battery any motor. I am wondering if there is a lipo battery that fits in a car like BMI's DB12 car?? Looking an easy way to run 4 cell/13.5 then throw in a lipo/bigger gear for the 15 min money race.


Also wondering if in 4 cell mode if i should run a battery pack for the servo??

It is either go 1/12 or go 1/10th. I really like the 1/12 pan cars but I have lipos/novak GTB's/motors that i know would work fine in 1/10th. But I really would like to run the 1/12 car with the 1/10 cars in a big main.

Just looking for some advce.

Thanks

Sean
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Old 11-01-2007, 04:33 AM   #27266
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Originally Posted by lbz34 View Post
Looks like w might be getting an indoor carpet track back here. I am wanting to run 1/12 pan. The initial class is 4c stock motor brushed or brushless. I am really leaning torwards brushless since thats what i run in off road. The local guys putting this together are talking about doing a 15 min main money race. Pretty much no rules, ie-any car any battery any motor. I am wondering if there is a lipo battery that fits in a car like BMI's DB12 car?? Looking an easy way to run 4 cell/13.5 then throw in a lipo/bigger gear for the 15 min money race.


Also wondering if in 4 cell mode if i should run a battery pack for the servo??

It is either go 1/12 or go 1/10th. I really like the 1/12 pan cars but I have lipos/novak GTB's/motors that i know would work fine in 1/10th. But I really would like to run the 1/12 car with the 1/10 cars in a big main.

Just looking for some advce.

Thanks

Sean
There are Lipo's sizes that would fit easily in the space but since Lipo 1/12th is not very common you will have to get the packs built for you. The main problem is that Lipo cells are 3.7V each....so you can run a 3.7v or a 7.4v pack. One is too little power one is way too much.

Your best bet is to get a good pack of 4200's, gear it right and drive conservatively. You should make 15 min with no problems with a new fresh battery and a 13.5 motor.
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Old 11-01-2007, 05:43 AM   #27267
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Two years ago Stormer was experimenting with what he called a "Long Distance" class which was 1/12 cars running 15 minute mains. He'd made up some motors with slightly less wattage than Stock motors and they EASILY made 15 minutes with 3800's while turning laps that were very very close to Stock times. A couple folks were making it work with 3300's but had to gear conservatively.

I experimented with running a Silver Can motor last season. Geared at 59-60mm roll-out it was almost exactly one lap down after 8 minutes racing in Stock with a similar caliber driver (PERFECT motor for learning 1/12 too...the chassis drove itself). It would run 15 minutes with the 4200 cells I was running.

The problem with 15 minute mains? Two-fold. First, NOBODY was particularly interested in corner marshalling a 15 minute main. Second, since there isn't the reliability issue you see in gas racing nor pit strategy, etc, the race order at 8 minutes was INVARIABLY the finishing order at 15 minutes...just spread further out. Didn't really show anything new, lengthened the race day, kinda died on the vine.
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Old 11-01-2007, 08:52 AM   #27268
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Originally Posted by Unregistered View Post
Without going into all of the goary details (and starting a big discussion), the power cap helps the speed contro run more efficiently and reduces stress on some parts of the speedo. The cap helps things run cooler, normally gives you more punch, and can reduce runtime because more power gets to the motor..

I run a receiver pack off and on but with runtime being less of an issue, I'm going to try running without for the weight save. I have plenty of new cells so if you want any drop me a PM.
Thanks for the reply!

-Steve
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Old 11-01-2007, 10:01 AM   #27269
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Thanks for the replys. Seems everything is just getting started back up in on road here so theres still stuff to work out. The 15 min money race was mentioned to be an open class just thought it would be fun to mix up the cars a bit. Hopefully it all pans out. Maybe ill just get both 1/10 and 1/12.
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Old 11-01-2007, 01:39 PM   #27270
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I am running a CRC3.2r. I saw there are 5 hole underneath the servo mounting position. 2 of them is for the universal servo mount, what is the purpose of the other 3 holes?

beside gluing the servo to chassis, is there other way I can mount the servo without using the universal servo mount? I am running a Fut9650 now
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