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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!


BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)


Enneti (Xceed)

As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.


If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick

  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020

  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


Reflex Racing/RSD:


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Old 10-14-2007, 10:48 AM   #27181
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Originally Posted by Kane-o View Post
The Futaba 9650 works fine but I am now running the KO this year as its transit time is faster. Either one you will be happy with. The only thing I don't like about the Futaba is that it uses a plastic vs metal spline (I cannot think of the word but the thing the servo saver goes on).

The futaba 9602 is metal gear and i believe the 9650 is also. I am certain on the 9602 being that i run it.
Jason Breiner
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Old 10-14-2007, 11:08 AM   #27182
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The 9650 has plastic gears ( http://www.gpdealera.com/cgi-bin/wga...pgm?I=FUTM0260 ). It is also slightly slower (.14sec/60 vs .11sec/60) but more powerful (50 oz/in vs 37 oz/in) than the 9602.
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Old 10-14-2007, 07:27 PM   #27183
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Originally Posted by Mitch Sy View Post
What is the best servo to use on a CRC Gen-X?
Futaba, Sanwa & KoPropo...which model?
Those brands only as I only have access to those
Thanks for your help!
the best for the GEN-X is the jr 3550
but you can use anything really.
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Old 10-14-2007, 07:39 PM   #27184
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I'm currently running the 9650 in a L4 for last season, and going on this season...can't really say anything bad about it..
Rusty Andersen

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Old 10-15-2007, 12:06 AM   #27185
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Originally Posted by protc3 View Post
I am thinking of making a mounting plate for the different popular servos. I just dont like the sliding mounts too much. They are really trying to accomodate the different servos but i dont like that you need to worry about centering the servo.fixed position is the most bullet proof way of mounting. It seems that you guys are real creative with your methods of fixing the slipping issues. The thing is, It is really the die hard 1/12th guys like all of us that are able to do this because we know the importance. We all get creative in order to make things work the way the need to. We(The manufacturers) really need to start making the cars a little easier to work with. It is tough getting guys from TC and nitro on the track with a 1/12th when there is too much tinkering to do with the car to make it work correctly. These people seem to get into 1/12 and quickly get out of it before really getting a real taste of how great the class really is.
Right now i have my own servo mounts that allow you to mount the servo flat or angled and also set the turnbuckles where you need them to be. My problem is, They are fixed position and narrow you to having to run a futaba servo or any servo with the same center location as a futaba. I think i can make it work for a wider range of servos. I will be looking further into this. There has to be a way to do this that is simple and yet effective. I do not want to go with sliding mounts. I will let you know what i come up with. We need to make it easier. If we can just make these cars easier to get right, We will see the class really take off.
I was thinking the same thing awhile back but decided I'd rather have drill guide plates for popular servos that bolt on to the front suspension mount holes. Yet another project I'll never get around to doing.
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Old 10-15-2007, 12:08 AM   #27186
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Originally Posted by wallyedmonds View Post
the best for the GEN-X is the jr 3550
but you can use anything really.
Is the 3550 the replacement for the old 3025? Same mounting holes and such? I went back to using my old 3025 because it is such an awesome servo.
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Old 10-15-2007, 12:17 PM   #27187
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has anybody used the futaba s9257 servo? I am in the market for a new servo and its between this the 9602 or a ko propo. I have a hitec atm
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Old 10-15-2007, 01:41 PM   #27188
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Default servos?

Does anyone have a servo for sale for my Switch12 trinity pan car? I need one. ive been using the hs85-mg it turns fine but I can't use the servo mounts and have to go directly off the chassis. I would like to use the servo mounts that came with the car. I have been looking at the ko 949. But I haven't the slightest idea about any others that I can use.If you don't have one for sale i would still like an answer as to what I can use.TANX.
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Old 10-15-2007, 03:31 PM   #27189
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Originally Posted by InspGadgt View Post
Is the 3550 the replacement for the old 3025? Same mounting holes and such? I went back to using my old 3025 because it is such an awesome servo.
put it in the car and see if the horn is in the center or not.
3550 replacement for the 3025 i dont know.
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Old 10-15-2007, 03:58 PM   #27190
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The Mx2 doesn't come with predrilled holes for the servo mounts and I don't have a 3550 to compare it to. It does appear to be slightly narrower in width and shorter then my 94145 but the output shaft is further to one side then my 94145 so it sits more to the right to be properly centered.
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Old 10-16-2007, 02:01 AM   #27191
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S9550 or the KO2413 doesn't fit 12th scales?
How about Sanwa WRX?
Xray T2'008 EU - www.TeamXray.com
Hudy Pro Tools - www.Hudy.net

LRP : Orion : Trinity|Pulse : Sanwa (Airtronics) : Ko Propo : Spektrum
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Old 10-16-2007, 02:26 PM   #27192
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Have a look at my new Car


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Old 10-16-2007, 03:40 PM   #27193
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Originally Posted by alf.skaar View Post
looks cool
i like the ae/gen front end
and i think alot of ppl are gona go that way,with the upper arm long.
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Old 10-16-2007, 10:52 PM   #27194
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Originally Posted by wallyedmonds View Post
looks cool
i like the ae/gen front end
and i think alot of ppl are gona go that way,with the upper arm long.
Having the ability to adjust the upper link length has been extremely valuable in our testing with the new Speedmerchant car. For the two months prior to Vegas a handful of guys on the stock team tried everything under the sun and we found that tuning the upper link was the key to corner speed and a HUGE setup aid.

All that testing certainly paid off with 4 Rev.5's in the stock A-Main and of course the win. Steve Boice's car literally never slowed down and held an amazing amount of speed through the flowing/partial steering areas of the track. I can say without a doubt having that extra degree of adjustment was paramount to the overall success of the car. The new Speedmerchant front end actually has 3 different locations (image below) available for both linkages which really let you make some big changes that you just can't duplicate on anything else right now.


It's great to see people trying things again in 12th scale, that car looks very interesting. Great blend of ideas sir!

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Old 10-17-2007, 01:35 AM   #27195
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Team Kwik

I have to add that i do like the F1 design from Bruce.
And Bruce are a great! boy.

I did Somme redesign off my good friend Magnus Ass. / Trinity design front end from Laje

to make the upper arm look better and possible lighter.

I have picture, i can post it later if you want to see.
posted above. Alf :-)

But to add damping to the frontend i had to go the way i did.

I think off making a fix upper arm, in different length and camber and caster,
sow wen you want to change the camber you change the upper arm, and
the arm will flex more like a F1 Car, putting a upper arm like the CRC or Ass. arm
together and to get it 100% alike on right and left side even i use my mill to do it.
Are virtual impossible it always get a bit off on the caster, but having a fix upper
arm you can drop the arm on any car and you very fast vill have the exact same camber
and caster on the other car, like the old Corally SP12G3. KISS. you now

Alf :-)

Last edited by alf.skaar; 10-23-2007 at 10:27 AM.
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